Phnom Penh - Boulevards and Streets (1) - Norodom Boulevard [Archive]

SeeMacau

May 13th, 2011, 06:54 AM

Phnom Penh's Norodom Boulevard

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Home to banks, government buildings and plenty of Lexuses, Norodom Boulevard is Cambodia’s only tuk-tuk free street. Many classy restaurants and some more curious establishments also line the boulevard – just don’t try to get to them by tuk-tuk.

From Wat Phnom to Monivong Bridge, Norodom Boulevard is one of the most beautiful and well-groomed streets in the capital. Though the ban on tuk tuks has done nothing to dispel its anarchy, and the rainy season results in flooding and traffic jams on the thoroughfare, it is certainly worth stopping in to many of the quality establishments that line the sides of this royal concourse.

North of the Monument

The boulevard starts its journey south from one of the most famous landmarks in the capital – Wat Phnom. Further south from the infamous Wat at the corner of Russian Boulevard, is the retail shop of the National Centre for Disabled People. Stocking a large variety of Cambodian handicrafts made by disabled people, it is a great one-stop-shop for all your souvenir-related needs. Past some of the many government buildings on the boulevard, a branch of UCare Pharmacy comes up on your right at the corner of Street 136. Though slightly smaller than some of the other branches, the pharmacy nevertheless stocks a decent selection of all the usual suspects.

Next up is Sokha Club Hotel. Apparently commonly visited by the prime minister himself, the hotel has only 16 rooms (from US$70), as well as a whole floor dedicated to karaoke, another to a spa, and one catering to private banquets. The ground floor houses a Chinese restaurant, Turmeric, offering nightly buffet dinners for US$12+, while on the top floor Le Mediterranean hosts an all-you-can-eat seafood barbeque every Friday night for US$18+, complete with a live band.

Across the street from Sokha is Cine Lux. Once upon a time, the establishment basked in the glory of Cambodia’s golden age of cinema, but today it screens mainly budget horror flicks with plots that never seem to stretch beyond constant mutilation. At 5000 riel, popping in there is a weirdly wonderful, if cinematographically pointless, experience. Past some more banks as well as several gorgeous examples of colonial architecture, a branch of KFC serving the kingdom’s favourite junk food is located in Pencil at the corner of street 208.

Before the magnificent Independence Monument, don’t forget to pop into Monument Books for real, property-rights paid books and magazines, as well as plenty of kids’ toys and trinkets. At the back of the bookstore is Java Tea Room, which despite the new, square, less homely sofas, retains an air of comfort and ease. Open 7.30am to 8pm. Finally, if bling is your thing, don’t miss Yem Jewellery shop diagonally opposite from Monument Books, as well as recently opened Japanese beauty salon Menard.

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South of Independence

The Independence Monument, erected in 1958 to commemorate the country’s independence from France, dominates the crossing of Norodom and Sihanouk Boulevards. Designed by Vann Molyvann, it is one of few structures created by the famed architect that has been well-maintained and is not under immediate threat of destruction. On your right as you exit the roundabout is French restaurant Atmosphere. Tastefully decorated, the restaurant serves fine French cuisine at affordable prices. Be sure to check the daily specials menu, and don’t miss out on the chocolate mousse for afters. Open 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm.

Opposite and a little south of Atmosphere is the modern Infinity Insurance building. Low-cost personal coverage starts from as little as US$2 per month, so there really is no excuse to go uninsured. Should your home be filled with the latest hi-tech and other expensive appliances, you may also want to consider the burglary insurance. Open 8am to 11am, 1.30pm to 5.30pm.

Next door is a brand-new though not so shining BBC shopping centre. Reminiscent of suburban shopping arcades of the 80s, you really needn’t stop by there unless you have a strange penchant for Khmer-style ball-gowns or if you want to try your luck at Good Luck Restaurant. The corner of Street 294 houses PharMart pharmacy, stocking a decent selection of health and beauty products. In general similar to the other quality, modern pharmacies in town, PharMart does stock a few brands unavailable elsewhere, so if you’re after something particular it might be worth a stop. Open 8am to 8pm. The hospital across the street offers free HIV testing on weekday mornings between 7am and 11am.

Across Norodom, Ekareach Café is a relative newcomer at the corner of Street 294. It serves flame-grilled foods, such as squid, clams or prawns for US$3, along with a variety of Khmer classics, including affordable breakfasts and free WiFi. Given the lack of atmosphere, drinks are slightly on the expensive side with US$5 for a jug of Anchor and US$3.50 for a gin tonic, but that may all change as the establishment finds its feet and expands to the first floor of the building. Open 8am to midnight. On this strip of Norodom are also a number of printing shops specialising in T-shirts and other clothes. Quality, price and waiting times vary, but at least there are plenty to choose from.

Don’t wear your NGO T-shirt when heading for dinner at top end restaurant Malis though, as a fine dining experience at this Cambodian establishment requires a touch more class. Try the roast chicken in prahok sauce, or go for chef Luu Meng’s signature menu (US$18+) featuring four courses, or the five-course discovery menu (US$25) for some of the best of Khmer cuisine. With several water features the garden restaurant is a relaxing and elegant space, and indoor private rooms also available on demand.

Derma Care skin clinic at the corner of Street 306 is more than your average beauty salon, with two dermatologists on staff offering not only quality treatments but medical consultations too. In addition to excellent facials (from US$35), this is also where to go for botox, liposuction and whitening treatments. Expect to pay big bucks for these. If you want to match your perfect skin with a pepsodent smile, pop into Pachem dentists a little further south. Claiming to be the largest dental group in Cambodia, Pachem has three branches in Phnom Penh and one in Siem Reap. The group offers a wide range of treatments for very affordable prices, and the Norodom branch is likely to be the oddest-looking building hosting a dental clinic that you have ever seen.

For less flair on the architectural front, try European Dental Clinic, located a touch further south on the other side of the boulevard. Run by French dentist Eric Le Guen, the clinic also employs a British dentist, Japanese-trained Cambodian dentist, and an Australian hygienist. Prices start at US$30 for consultation, and emergency services are also offered. Open 8am to noon, and 2pm to 7pm.

Finally, should you fancy some fine dining of a more European variety, don’t miss out on Topaz Restaurant and Piano Bar, housed in a beautiful water-fronted building just before the intersection with Mao Tse Tung Boulevard. It’s certainly not cheap, but it is possible to sample chef Alain Darc’s delicacies without burning a hole in your pocket. A three-course lunch with soft drinks and coffee or tea will set you back US$20+, while set dinners menus start from US$32. The restaurant has an impressive wine list, and the balcony at the upstairs piano bar is a lovely little spot to while away an evening whilst sipping cocktails (US$5.50). Open 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 11pm.

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