Best Seoul Selection – September 2004

OK folks, here it is then, my first ever thread on SkyscraperCity. For those of you who know me personally, I’m hoping to have the long-promised photos from my previous South Korean and North Korean vacations online by the end of the year (it’s taken much longer than anticipated since I foolishly decided on the perfectionist’s option of researching and writing captions for all my snaps before posting them).

I’ve divided these, the best pics (for me) from my recent Seoul vacation, into four general categories: Seoul Skyline, Checking Out Seoul’s History, The Seoul Subway and Out And About In Seoul. I’ve tried to give as much information (hopefully not too much) about the photos in the captions located below each one, as well as links to some other sites containing relevant info for those of you who are interested. Enjoy.

Seoul Skyline

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The Myongdong area of central Seoul, taken from the bar on top of the cable car station next to Seoul Tower on Mount Namsan. Forsaking the tower and hitting this bar instead affords you better photo opportunities of Myongdong and several other areas of the city (i.e. no windows to contend with, although your view of the city is restricted to 180° instead of 360°), and the money saved on admission can be spent on beer as you chill out watching the sun set on the other side of the River Han. Highly recommended.

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Myongdong by night.

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Seoul Tower by day…

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…and by night.

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The Jongno Tower, built in 1999. This is SkyscraperCity, so some of you may be interested to hear it’s 133.5m high with 24 floors and is owned by Samsung Life Insurance. Check out http://joongangdaily.joins.com/200303/05/200303050350413279900092209221.html for more info.

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New high-rises being erected next to Yongsan US Army Base.

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The ML63 Building and the surrounding island area of Yuiddo, otherwise known as ‘Seoul’s Manhattan.’

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Seoul and the River Han at sunset.

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At night Seoul’s skyline is dotted with red neon crucifixes marking the city’s many churches. This one, next to Dondaemun Gate, is probably one of the more interestingly-designed examples.

Checking Out Seoul’s History

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A pagoda in Jongmyo Plaza, the park in front of the Jongmyo Royal Shrine complex.

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A close-up of the pagoda’s choma, the hip (corner) of its roof. Unlike Chinese and Japanese roofs, which have straight lines, traditional Korean roofs curve upwards at the bottom. Also unique to Korean architecture are the vibrant colours of the eaves, which are related to the country’s indigenous religion. Check out http://www.koreainfogate.com/beautykorea/traditional/earth.asp?title=Choma&src=23 for more info.

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Students on a school trip checking out Yongnyeongjeon in the Jongmyo Royal Shrine complex.

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The picturesque gardens outside Jeongjeong.

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Jeongjeong, the other main building in the Jongmyo Royal Shrine complex. Apparently Jeongjeong is the longest single traditional structure in Korea, and is quite impressive despite its plainness.

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“One for sorrow. Two for joy. Three for a girl. Four for a boy. Five for silver. Six for gold. Seven for a secret never to be told.” You can see six magpies here, although there were actually seven (it was too bright to actually see the image on my digicam’s monitor). There are no magpies in Japan (the word kasasagi entered the Japanese language during the colonial rule of Korea but nobody knows what it means anymore) so it’s strange to see so many in Korea.

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The historical information placards at Seoul’s palaces and temples tell the same story time after time – the place was burned or destroyed by the Japanese. No wonder the Japanese aren’t so popular here (except when they’re spending lots of Won on tourist stuff, of course).

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Part of the Changgyeonggung Palace complex.

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A gate leading into the Changgyeonggung Palace complex.

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Beautiful roof designs in the Changgyeonggung Palace complex.

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Another part of the Changgyeonggung Palace complex.

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Myongjeongjeon, the main hall in the Changgyeonggung Palace complex.

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Myongjeongjeon, with Seoul Tower in the background.

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A close-up of the Myongjeongjeon roof.

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One last shot of roofs before we move on.

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Me trying my hand at some traditional entertainment.

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Living quarters in the Changgyeonggung Palace complex

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Inside the living quarters.

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The statue of Korean patriot Wolnam Lee Sang-Jee in Jongnam Plaza.

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By day Jongmyo Plaza is overrun by the elderly – smoking, drinking, eating ice cream, and playing changgi (similar to Japanese shoji or chess). It’s an interesting contrast to Tokyo’s fashionable Shibuya district where you never see anyone over 30, as here I didn’t see anyone under the age of 60.

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Here’s a group of elderly folk getting into a game of changgi.

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One of the many interesting photo opportunities to be found in Jongmyo Plaza, a man washing his hair in the fountain, much to the bemusement of the other locals.

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Parklife – feeding the sparrows, not the pigeons, though.

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Whilst young Koreans can usually only write Hangul Korean characters well, older Koreans are adept at writing Chinese characters (especially since the Japanese tried to eradicate Korean language during their occupation of 1910-1945). Here, ironically, are examples of Chinese character calligraphy aimed at Japanese tourists visiting Jongmyo Royal Shrine complex.


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More Chinese character calligraphy, this time accompanied by a glowering camera-shy local.

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One of the many sellers who set up their stalls in front of Jongmyo Plaza to cash in on the huge numbers of elderly people. This guy was selling dried snakes for medicinal purposes.

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Koreans aren’t allowed to take advantage of the casinos springing up in Seoul to cater for foreigners, so it’s left to more mundane forms of gambling such as slot machines or these portable rock/scissors/paper machines (possible a legacy of the Japanese Colonial Era as Japanese love janken) to milk the punters.

The Seoul Subway

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The Seoul subway system. Clean, efficient and much cheaper than its Japanese counterparts.

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The mock-rock interior of Seoul Station. Not quite as grandiose as the Pyongyang Metro.

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Subway map and ticket machines for any trainspotters out there.

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Just in case you’re feeling your non-conformist attitude towards platform positioning is bucking society, these helpful footprints will help you become an ideal citizen once more.

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On the last train back to Itaewon.

Out And About In Seoul

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Fountain at the intersection on Namdaemunno.

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Sungnyemun Gate in Namdaemun, which marks the southern boundary of the old city centre.

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Moi.

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Street scene in Namdaemun. The guy on the left’s my favourite.

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A pleasant side street in Namdaemun.

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Girls wearing hanbok, the traditional costume of Korea.

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The statue of Gim Gu on the ascent to Seoul Tower.

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The main pagoda in Tapgol Park.

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My obsession with colourful roofs never ends.

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I saw several stone turtles when I visited Kaesong in North Korea (Check out http://www.peterlanger.com/Countries/Asia/Koreanorth/pages/KPKAE007BW.htm for examples), so I guess they have some kind of significance in Korean history. This one’s in Tapgol Park.

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As well as stone turtles, Koreans also seem to have a penchant for totem poles.

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And here’s another two.

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Grubby, yet strangely picturesque. A side street off Insadong-gil.

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One of the many bric-a-brac stalls lining the side streets off Insadong-gil.

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A traditional Korean restaurant in the Insadong-gil area.

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And another.

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The backstreets of the Insadong-gil area. Note the containers of fermenting kimchi (Korea’s national dish, made from Chinese cabbage, garlic, chillies and ginger) everywhere. Koreans eat this stuff for breakfast, lunch and dinner!

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The south side of the River Han is the most desirable area to live in and is now overrun with characterless apartment blocks, as you can see from this map of the area around Songnae station.

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A few of the many apartment blocks erected by Korea’s chaebol (Eng: conglomerates, Jap: zaibatsu), such as LG, Samsung and Hyundai. Like Japanese zaibatsu such as Mitsubishi and Hitachi, the chaebol have a diverse range of business interests and have a powerful grip on politics.

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Some more sterile apartment buildings, which gave me the same kind of feeling as their North Korean counterparts, although these are obviously in better condition.

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“I know what you’re thinking punk: You’re thinking “Did he fire six shots or only five?” Now, to tell you the truth, I forgot myself in all this excitement. But being this is a .44 Magnum, the most powerful handgun in the world and will blow your head clean orf, you’ve gotta ask yourself a question: “Do I feel lucky?” Well do ya, punk?”

Me getting into Dirty Harry mode at Lotte World. Because most men aged 18-20 have to do National Service in the ROK Army, most males have had gun handling experience; as a result, you can find firing ranges where you just walk in, pay your money and start shooting. This was my first time to fire a handgun, so naturally I selected the biggest hand cannon available. Fortunately it had a wire running through the top or the recoil (even with both arms locked and braced) would’ve either had me on my back or bust my nose. Unbelievable!


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Known as ‘Hooker Alley’ in local parlance, this is the home of backpacker’s favourite The Hill Top Motel in Itaewon.

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And here it is, The Hill Top Motel itself.

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Pretty basic rooms, but clean and in a perfect location in Itaewon, one of the main nightlife areas. Definitely my Seoul budget accommodation recommendation.

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And with cable TV (including the American Forces Network, with its unintentionally hilarious public service broadcasts about lifting heavy objects, avoiding sunstroke and other common-sense subjects your average kindergarten kid is aware of), you won’t find much better for the price (2,500 Yen/13 Quid a night).

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The only evidence that this is a ‘love hotel’ is the condom machine on the bedroom wall, and the American GIs you see bringing prostitutes back. Very different from Japanese ‘love hotels’ with their themed rooms. Apparently.

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One last pic, an interesting sign I found on the side of an earth-mover. I think it conveys its message rather well.

Nick.

Great pictures mate.Well done.What an amazing first post.

A good one of Traditioal Korean Dress.

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This one is so Buck Rogers.....25th Century.Love it

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great~~

hehe ive never seen the train so empty~!! hehe

wow love your pictures...and your captions provided me laughters! I loved reading your captions and explanations Dr.Nick!

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One minor thing though..this is not Kim Gu but actually a general named Kim Yoo Shin from Shilla Dynasty :)

Awesome. You went to North Korea too?

Welcome to the KOrean forums! you sound like you have been living in korea for quite a time! hope you had a good time there

..................

im sure he didnt mean that ^^

Would you please call that district in a nice and right way? Itaewon was historically...blah, blah..."Hooker Alley" is kinda quite dirty slang which used among american GIs or somebody to look for Sex in that district...blah, blah...Even though there are queer and risky scenes in that district indeed, the local is unpleasant to hear " Hooker Alley" instead of Itaewon.

While I appreciate some background info on Itaewon's history, I think you've misunderstood my caption entirely:

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Known as ‘Hooker Alley’ in local parlance, this is the home of backpacker’s favourite The Hill Top Motel in Itaewon.

Taken in the context of the picture it is located underneath I think it's obvious I'm referring specifically to the alley shown in the picture, and I find it hard to believe that any Koreans would take offense at it being dubbed "Hooker Alley" bearing in mind the number of women 'offering their services' there. Far from slagging off the whole of Itaewon, I enjoyed staying there; It's got a great atmosphere, especially when you compare it to Tokyo's main foreigner area, Roppongi, which Itaewon is far superior to.

...............

he said "KNOWN as hooker alley" he didn't intentionally call it hooker alley. he was just giving us some background info. and its not that big of a deal. who cares what these people call them. as long as you stick to what you believe in, its all fine ;)

^ right,

easy, easy guys. It's not as if no Koreans refer to the place as dirty names like 'hooker alley'. I've heard lots of Korean people call it by even dirtier names. I'm sure Dr Nick meant no offense when he made the comment, just simply reporting the fact that prostitution exists in that area. Let's not waste our energy on such minor matter...

PMS all over the forum :D

nice pics u have there dr.nick!! :okay:

can anyone tell me the history or tradition of this:?
http://img106.exs.cx/img106/4467/BSS052resize.jpg

But it IS known as hooker alley, and not only among foreigners but Koreans too. Maybe it is unpleasant but hey, thats how it is.

What a surprise!! I have never heard such a word like "Hooker Alley", but I don't think he meant to be offensive.

I think Skyscrapercity lives in the area and he may not want his town to be called such a negative name. It is understandable.

BTW, nice pix Dr. Nick!! Thank you for sharing them with us!

PMS all over the forum :D
wats PMS?

wats PMS?

Premenstrual Syndrome

its when people overreacts and go all catty and stuff :)

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blah blah blah...

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You liked Itaewon? Geez, I find it seedy and slimey. Its like a ghetto. Ive been there maybe 3 times. The only reason to go is to get some good food. Beyond that, I avoid it like the plague.

If the hill was just a hill, it would be called The Hill of Itaewon. But you know what happens there. It actually has two names, Hooker hill and Homo Hill. Its the same hill. If that kind of business didnt take place there, it wouldnt be called what it is.

Are you Korean or not? You say in your last post that you are not Korean but tou also wrote "Many korean (including me) feel unpleasant to hear " Hooker Alley ", so Im curious which it is. Its not important, but does go towards your credability.

...............

OK,I delete all my blah blah blah for Koreans (es,one-eyed honker)
and I promise to not waste time here on korean forum
Happy? ok, fine :)

First of all, nice to meeting U :)
you r a very kind and warm forumer here

I loved and LOVE Itaewon. Even dark side of Itaewon
Itaewon is the very palce my special & memorable event happened(do not worry, I don't distress you by telling my stroy in detail )

Itaewon is becoming a very cosmopolitan district such a homogeneous city like Seoul.
Lots of People from all around world are learning to live together there by now.
And lots of good atmosphered bars and foreign restaurants, even art cafes & galleries there
Unique & Interesting to me.

Oh, I forgot to mention "little Islam society" in Iteawon(at least, Itaewon should be the holy place to them )

For me Itaewon is the last place I wanna go :) Seoul has WAY better places tha Itaewon. Itaewon is gtreat for ONe thing and one thing only: international restaurants. Other than othat, go to Apgujeong or Hongdae. Maybe Im a snob, but I dont leave Gangnam unless I really have to heheheheh :)

@skyscrapercity

ok ok ok we understand you, its fine now so drop it already...I dont think Dr.Nick would post anymore pictures now because you scared him away..

nice way to greet a forumer....

more and more blah blah blah... I don't know who's worse, the one wasting time writing or the one wasting time reading.

^lol

Koreanczyk.. i have something to tell you about your description
I mean --; 난 외국 사람입니다 ... 요즘은 한국에서 살고 많이 재미있어요. 한국말을 너무 힘들지만 포기 하고 싶지 않아요. 그래서 날 연락 하고 싶으니까 매시지를 보내 주세요.
<--- this one.. you better to change it because it has some spelling errors

난 외국 사람입니다.. 요즘은 한국에서 살고 많이 재미있어요. <-- this one is perfect
한국말을 너무 힘들지만 포기 하고 싶지 않아요 <--- something wrong here you need to use "은" instead of "을"
그래서 날 연락 하고 싶으니까 매시지를 보내 주세요<--- instead of "날" use "난" and also don't say "매시지" it's wrong~! you have to use "메시지" next time ok??
^^

^ and now we have a teacher wannabe... Personally I hate being corrected unless I ask... but that's just me... right?

Its ok...I think I wrote my sig about a year go, though I never actually read it anymore:)

or if you meant other people to message you, you should say 나를 연락하고싶으면

I dont know why some of you are so disgusted about Itaewon.All great cities have their interesting,sometimes sleezy areas.

I dont know why some of you are so disgusted about Itaewon.All great cities have their interesting,sometimes sleezy areas.

Yes, Itaewon is an interesting area of Seoul. It's worth going there if only to experience the "Tailor-made suit, sir?" greeting by the store owners. And some of them do make some reasonably good suits considering they are sold 4 times less than in the other areas of Seoul.

But.. except to see the mosque, the "hill" or to get a cheap suit made, I see no reason to go. Why go there when Seoul offers soooo many other nightlife spots where the crowd and the establishments are significantly more appealing.

The few times I went out to Itaewon with a date, it inspired the Itaewon hooligans (probably GIs) to act like they just escaped from a zoo not having seen a girl in years.

oh well....:|

Above, I briefly mentioned my trip to LotteWorld so I'm just adding a link here to Donkie's Inside Jamil LotteWorld (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?p=2843257#post2843257) thread so my non-forumer mates I sent this URL to can check out some extra Seoul stuff. I just posted the following stuff on Donkie's thread but I may as well post it here as well so those of you in a hurry can check it out too:

LotteWorld's 'Best' Ride
Check out Gyro Swing (http://www.lotteworld.com/eng/magic/magic01_04.jsp) for pics of this evil creation. We got there at 9:30pm when the rides are closing and just managed to get on the Gyro Swing before it closed. During the several nerve-wracking minutes that the ride did the equivalent of 4 forward and 4 backwards bungee jumps I decided that I was never going to go on any non-rollercoaster amusements ever again. As the ride stopped and I began to feel a mixture of relief and nausea I was dismayed to discover that the shouts from most of the Koreans on the ride must have been "one more time" and the ride started up again, forcing me to endure the punishment a second time. As a result, it was nearly three hours before I felt 'normal' again.

I definitely recommend this ride to any thrillseekers out there!

One Last Thing...
One of the best things about internet forums is the opportunity to express your opinions freely, so I'm a little curious as to why you deleted all your replies on this thread, skyscrapercity초고층빌딩. Like every other forumer you can post anything in reply to people's threads but you've got to 'put your money where your mouth is' and stand by your opinions after they're open to debate.

.....................................................................

LotteWorld's 'Best' Ride
Check out Gyro Swing (http://www.lotteworld.com/eng/magic/magic01_04.jsp) for pics of this evil creation. We got there at 9:30pm when the rides are closing and just managed to get on the Gyro Swing before it closed. During the several nerve-wracking minutes that the ride did the equivalent of 4 forward and 4 backwards bungee jumps I decided that I was never going to go on any non-rollercoaster amusements ever again. As the ride stopped and I began to feel a mixture of relief and nausea I was dismayed to discover that the shouts from most of the Koreans on the ride must have been "one more time" and the ride started up again, forcing me to endure the punishment a second time. As a result, it was nearly three hours before I felt 'normal' again.

I definitely recommend this ride to any thrillseekers out there!


I watched the video a few times, and I still can't believe how wicked this ride is. Wow -- will need to go back to Lotte World and check this out.

Thanks for all your Seoul pics! they were lots of fun to scroll through.

best holiday greetings

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nice pics u have there dr.nick!! :okay:

can anyone tell me the history or tradition of this:?
http://img106.exs.cx/img106/4467/BSS052resize.jpg

Those were put at the entrance of villages and some public places to scare away ghosts and spirits in the old days in Korea. The modern day solution to spook away the evil spirits is to use skyscrapers and flashing neons. Works just as well!

cheers

that scares me away,,,ㅡㅡ;;hehe

thats what drug addicts see :)

Seoul just looks boring.A poor cousin to Japan

I think not

아이구.... 기분 드러워라....

I think not

It you look at the pictures from the beginning of the thread,It looks like a middle class Aisan country.The pictures I've seen of Japan and Singapore look far more advanced than Korea

because that is just one of the many BCD's in Seoul...
what is your defenition of advanced???

is this "advanced"??
http://img19.exs.cx/img19/3505/-977.jpg


????
or this??

http://sin.zio.to/zboard/data/k_s_gang/tehranro01.jpg

btw how can u judge how "advanced" a country/city is just by looking at photos??

nice skyline doesnt mean "advanced"

Photos I like.Detail can be found in everyone.

아이구.... 기분 드러워라....


ㅎㅎ 말려들지 마세요. 싫다고 덤비는 데에는 얘기해봤자 좋은 소리 못 들어요.

It you look at the pictures from the beginning of the thread,It looks like a middle class Aisan country.The pictures I've seen of Japan and Singapore look far more advanced than Korea

The places that were shown in this thread are touristic areas for the most part, not typical residential or nightlife neighbourhoods. The Itaewon, Insadong, Namdaemun, neighbourhoods and the palaces shown herein should be compared to the Tokyo-Asakusa, the Tokyo fish market neighbourhoods and the palaces/temples you would find in Kyoto.

To get a good idea of what typical modern korean life is like for the middle-class citizens (residential neighbourhoods, nightlife neighbourhoods), check out these threads:

http://skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=151492

http://skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=163968

http://skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=163314

http://skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=136203

In my opinion, the standard of living of the Korean middle class is similar to what can be found in an average western european country.

cheers

hahaha look at all the posts that W A R I O had posted in SSC!!! He/she bashed and tackled every city he could find!!! HAHA W A R I O I think you should go out more often and find a friend instead of posting a negative comments. :)

Hanoi Mieu Mon Airport (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=163182)

The Irish???? (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?p=2943479#post2943479)

Canada Won (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?p=2943488#post2943488)

London Underground (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?p=2943494#post2943494)

Old and New,Chongqing. (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?p=2943514#post2943514)

Windsor-Detroit pics (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?p=2943523#post2943523)

Tangshan, 18 years after giant earthquake (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=165702)

Singapore (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=165253)

W A R I O seems to have very high standards about everything. :lol: Would you mind sharing which city you come from?

Well the photos in the first page are of the oldest "downtown" district in Seoul.. Seoul has like 4...

there's always at least 10 of them... sigh

ㅎㅎ 말려들지 마세요. 싫다고 덤비는 데에는 얘기해봤자 좋은 소리 못 들어요.
네...ㅋ

hahaha look at all the posts that W A R I O had posted in SSC!!! He/she bashed and tackled every city he could find!!! HAHA W A R I O I think you should go out more often and find a friend instead of posting a negative comments. :)

Hanoi Mieu Mon Airport (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=163182)

The Irish???? (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?p=2943479#post2943479)

Canada Won (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?p=2943488#post2943488)

London Underground (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?p=2943494#post2943494)

Old and New,Chongqing. (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?p=2943514#post2943514)

Windsor-Detroit pics (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?p=2943523#post2943523)

Tangshan, 18 years after giant earthquake (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=165702)

Singapore (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=165253)

hehehhehe i already saw that too,,,

Seoul is one of the most advanced cities in Asia!, who could object to that????

some jealous forumers whose name i will not utter here :colgate:

Seoul has advanced increadibly since the 1990s.

Didn't want my Seoul thread to feel lonely so I had to 'bump' it. Sorry.

@Wario are you so happy because your country ##### is so much more advanced than Korea? :bleh: are you sooo proud of it? you crazy neighbourhood cetizen :hahaha:

Photos I like.Detail can be found in everyone.

you like that 2 pics? huh? so are you so happy that your country ##### is so much more advance than Korea? are you so proud of it?

man i've lived here for 6years now and i've never noticed this. i think i need to leave the office more :bash: