View Full Version : The Shandur Pass, Pakistan


Sultan
April 17th, 2005, 12:54 AM
Photo Credit - offroadpakistan.com

Shandur 42km away

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-27_10-31-00.jpg

On the N-5 highway ('N' = National), heading from Karachi to Lahore to Shandur Pass

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-20_21-32-31_0008.jpg

View from the Rock City Hotel

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/000025.jpg

Heading up the Lowari Pass, one tough climb

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/001018.jpg

Clouds in the blue sky

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-26_19-14-02_0024.jpg

Stay at Mastuj

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-27_08-46-30.jpg

Scenic valley on the way to Shandur from Mastuj

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-27_16-35-46.jpg

On the way to Shandur

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-27_13-36-54_140.jpg

Sultan
April 17th, 2005, 12:59 AM
Shandur 0km away

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-27_15-25-59_189.jpg

Welcome to Shandur Gala - Highest polo ground in the world

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/000036.jpg

At the Shandur Pass

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-27_14-20-51_162.jpg

Shandur polo ground - this is the highest polo ground in the world

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-27_15-15-10_181.jpg

Shandur Polo ground: An arial view. The toughest polo matches in the world take place here - players go through 2-3 horses each through a game.

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-27_15-19-14_183.jpg

Early morning hiking in Shandur

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-29_06-06-11_044.jpg

Rock structures near Shandur

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-27_16-29-00.jpg

Valley near Shandur: breathtaking view from here. The camera doesn't do justice.

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-27_16-29-42_195.jpg

Another view of a valley

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-28_12-19-06_012.jpg

Sultan
April 17th, 2005, 01:09 AM
On the way back from Shandur Pass

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-27_17-26-30_223.jpg

Wheat fields on the way back

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-28_12-29-30_029.jpg

Approaching the end of the journey

http://offroadpakistan.com/pictures/shandur_2004/2004-06-28_15-48-48__181.jpg

:D

berlin
April 17th, 2005, 09:46 AM
So nice, but is it safe?

Sultan
April 17th, 2005, 10:12 PM
So nice, but is it safe?

Yup, its safe. Every year, there is a match between two cities at the Shandur Gala polo ground. The matches are between and Chitral and Gilgit, and people from all over Pakistan come to see it, a small town literally grows up at the Pass.

Its a lot of fun. All you gotta care about is your driving, the rest is all safe. :)

GVNY
April 18th, 2005, 06:18 AM
Wonderful photos!


You wouldn't have any photos of Chitral would you?

KREZ
April 19th, 2005, 12:11 AM
That lush green valley is simply breathtaking!

Raza
April 19th, 2005, 12:28 AM
amazing country, pakistan should make these places safe for tourists from all the armed tribal people, who are in many cases dangerous. that way pakistan can make billions of tourism.

Sultan
April 19th, 2005, 07:22 AM
amazing country, pakistan should make these places safe for tourists from all the armed tribal people, who are in many cases dangerous. that way pakistan can make billions of tourism.

These places don't have tribals. The tribals are in the NWFP province, and Baluchistan province. But, if you go to NWFP the tribals are very hospitable people. They would welcome you with open arms, unless you mess with them.

Thats usually a global rule, if you mess with anyone, or interfere in anyone's business, they'd mess with you. But in this case, the tribals have there 'speedy justice' system called the jirga.

PS. Pakistan's tourism revenue earning has increased by 35% over last year. :)

Sultan
April 19th, 2005, 07:40 AM
Wonderful photos!


You wouldn't have any photos of Chitral would you?

Sorry GVNY. Not any at the moment, but if I do come across some, I'll post them here. :(

sach999
April 19th, 2005, 07:55 AM
Nice pics Bapu

Is this in Azhad Kashmir
Does a person need some visitor visa to go there ?
Where is their embassy ?

Sultan
April 19th, 2005, 08:03 AM
Nice pics Bapu

Is this in Azhad Kashmir
Does a person need some visitor visa to go there ?
Where is their embassy ?

Shandur Pass is located in the Northern Areas of Pakistan. They have there own legislative council, etc. So its not in Azad Kashmir. To visit the Shandur Pass you'd require a visa from the Pakistan embassy or counslate in your country.

Its a very beautiful place, Mashallah.

PS. I'm Sultan, not Bapu! Unless you mean, Bapu = Dude! :D

sach999
April 19th, 2005, 08:18 AM
Shandur Pass is located in the Northern Areas of Pakistan. They have there own legislative council, etc. So its not in Azad Kashmir. To visit the Shandur Pass you'd require a visa from the Pakistan embassy or counslate in your country.

Its a very beautiful place, Mashallah.

PS. I'm Sultan, not Bapu! Unless you mean, Bapu = Dude! :D

Thank You for the information

Gumnaam
April 19th, 2005, 08:21 AM
Sultan, it's good we are online at the same time. That i**** is keep calling me Sultan and Bapu to you along with another ****t.

Do we look the same or talk the same way or **** the ******* in the same way.

Sultan
April 19th, 2005, 09:57 AM
Sultan, it's good we are online at the same time. That i**** is keep calling me Sultan and Bapu to you along with another ****t.

Do we look the same or talk the same way or **** the ******* in the same way.

No worries my friend. Lets not diss someone else if they said it by mistake. Its all good. I have no hard feelings.

Lets continue on with the thread. :)

sfh99
April 22nd, 2005, 02:05 AM
sultan bhai , please post them again as I cant see the pictures.

UnitedPakistan
April 22nd, 2005, 07:36 PM
amazing country, pakistan should make these places safe for tourists from all the armed tribal people, who are in many cases dangerous. that way pakistan can make billions of tourism.
Most tribals are armed but are allied with the government and help searching for the Taliban and Al Qaedia. If you remember last year during the wana operations all the tribal leaders were flown in to Islamabad and they all spoke to the president and decided to help the government. They really didnt have a choice because Musharaf gave them the famous your with us or your against us. Anyways the point is its safe and the Frontier Police is next in line to receive anti terrorist training.

Sultan
April 30th, 2005, 09:08 AM
sultan bhai , please post them again as I cant see the pictures.

The pictures are showing. I hope you can see them now. :)

Sonic from Padova
April 30th, 2005, 08:04 PM
nice photoreportage!

Sultan
May 18th, 2005, 02:03 PM
Polo at Shandur Pass - Half-Way to Heaven

Every June, the Shandur Pass in northern Pakistan is the setting for a polo festival played to rules eight hundred years old on what is, perhaps,the highest polo ground in the world, as Fredy Weisser discovered.

During the 1920s, the ruler of Moskuj, the Hindukush highland between Chitral and Gilgit, was told by his Mir, or king, to promote integration within his realm through a polo tournament between the best players.

The British Resident at the time, Col Evelyn Hey Cobb, a keen polo player himself, came up with the idea of holding the tournament in the Shandur Pass, approximately 11,000ft above sea level in what is now northern Pakistan. The site is described dramatically as being on the ridge between Heaven and the descent to Hell.

Col Cobb felt that, because the moon seemed so close to earth, his dream of playing polo in the light of a full moon could be realised. It was agreed that the games should be held between the best teams from Chitral and Gilgit, and played following the centuries-old rules of Ali Sher Khan, a descendant of Genghis Khan. This meant that a game would last for an hour, with a short break between two 30-minute chukkars. Each player would be allowed only one horse for the duration of the match, and stoppages would be allowed only for serious injuries to a horse or player. Should, for some reason, a horse or player cease to play, his opposite number in the other team would have to leave the field. If the ball went out of play, it must be thrown back immediately by one of the spectators. Lastly, each team should consist of six players with, as already noted, one horse per man.

The consequences of these loose conditions were predictable - seriously injured horses and players, even deaths, were the order of the day in the annual tournament held every June.

The polo ground in the Shandur Pass is smaller in width and breadth than the conventional field, being 60yd wide and 220yd long. Also alien to a modern western player would be the 2ft high stone wall which surrounds the ground. In ice hockey, such a wall could prove advantageous - in polo, it could lead to serious injuries in the event of a fall.

The rules recall ancient legends - for instance, how, after a successful goal the scorer can dictate the continuity of a game. He picks up the ball and carries it back at full gallop in his lap to the centre line, from where he will throw it into the air and try to hit it and score a goal at the opposite end of the field. As in contemporary polo, ends change side after a goal is scored.

There is an interesting legend attached to polo in northern Pakistan, dating perhaps from the days before history was recorded. It appears that a king begged the gods to give him back his missing wife.The gods, in return, made it a condition that the king must sacrifice his two sons. They gave him a fast horse - it 'brought mountains together and split the valleys' in the tale - and sent him to a lost valley in Baltistan, some two hundred miles from Shandur. There, so the story continues, he arrived with the heads of his sons, and had the task of hitting them both, at fast gallop, with his polo stick into an opening in the mountains. If he succeeded, he would regain his missing queen. Most extraordinary is that, to this day, beyond a very small opening in a mountain in Baltistan, near Kaphulu, is a real polo field which is identical to that in the legend.

Of course, in view of these ancient tales, it is not surprising that polo, whose roots go back to 600BC, and was brought to India and the Himalayas from Persia, is said once to have been played with the heads of sheep, goats and other animals. In Genghis Khan's day even the severed heads of conquered enemies are said to have been used.

The Shandur Pass is regarded as being 'half-way to Heaven', although long gone are the days in which this could refer to Heaven, as in the sense of gods caring for polo, or Hell as in the conquered soldiers who had to march through it.

There is, however, an alternative meaning to visitors and players in modern times. The approach by jeep - if one owns such a vehicle - from Chitral in the west takes a good nine hours. From Gilgit, east of the Pass, the journey may take probably thirteen hours. With few exceptions, the journey leads through the paradise-like green and cultivated highlands. But one is constantly aware, on the dusty and rocky drive, that the wheels of the jeep can be two inches away from an abyss - from 'hell'. This nerve-wracking journey along narrow, stony paths from which even the vertigo-free mountain goats retreat, will worsen when suddenly another jeep appears from the opposite direction. Both drivers risk dangerous manoeuvres in an attempt to pass each other.

It says much for the attraction of the Shandur Pass polo festivals that the players of the six invited teams - three from either side of the Pass - must also endure this dangerous trek. Even more alien to the modern western player is the fact that the ponies of participating teams must face a five day march. In order to acclimatise the ponies - and only one per player is allowed, it should be remembered - small training games are held every night, when camps have been made on the trail.

Unfortunately, not everyone arrives safely. Every year, including 2001, several deaths or serious injuries are recorded en route. Those who were fortunate enough to avoid the several hundred metre fall 'into hell' arrive dust-covered at the Pass and, light-headed in the thin air, feel themselves 'half-way to Heaven' indeed.

With every day bringing the historic tournament closer, more and more people arrive. Before long, the empty Hindukush landscape is transformed into a bustling, scent-filled marquee town. Until the final on the Sunday, when the two 'A' teams from Chitral and Gilgit meet, in excess of ten thousand spectators, who somehow appeared from nowhere, will be camping out in temperatures that reach -10C at night and +40C during the day.

There are also hundreds of police in combat gear and heavily-armed soldiers holding apart the supporters of each side. On one side of the field the fans of Gilgit settle down in their camp - on the other, the followers of Chitral. In between are the neutral street pedlars, chefs and conmen trying their luck at earning a few rupees.

The game of games is ready to begin. The fans have taken their seats around the polo field on rocks, hills and other natural grandstands. The players, strong and aggressive, exchange terse but friendly handshakes and wish each other good luck. The sticks, for once, must not be allowed to get between the legs of the ponies.

After dancers, drummers and the bagpipe band have given their best, and General Pervez Musharraf, President of Pakistan, has declared the game officially open, the final gets under way. There is a timekeeper - the only official, as umpires and referees are non-existent. The game is fast - tremendously fast. The Pakistani-bred Punjabi and Afghan Badakshani ponies, both the result of breeding from Himalayan mountain ponies and English thoroughbreds, are ridden in a wild style, with a lot of skill and at full speed through the mêlée. A total of twelve players are not afraid to use their sticks to hit not only the ball but also, and vehemently, the arms and shoulders of their opponents.

Broken arms and ribs do not stop the players, after an interval for bandaging and splints, to continue the game. The final was won, just short of the one-hour time limit, with a goal from Gilgit. Of course, afterwards, all barriers came down, and the heavily-armed and sometimes baton-wielding police did not manage to prevent the masses from flooding onto the field. Nevertheless, they succeeded in getting President Musharraf to present the cup to Bulbul Shan, captain of Gilgit, in front of thousands of jubilant fans, who then joined in the victory dance and carried the players on their shoulders from the ground.

It should be remembered that the victors, after the celebrations, had again a life-threatening two-day journey home by jeep, and the ponies a four-day journey down from the Shandur Pass.

Principes
May 18th, 2005, 03:12 PM
Nice and lush, i had no idea how vegitated pakistan was.

Sultan
June 10th, 2005, 07:09 PM
Nice and lush, i had no idea how vegitated pakistan was.

Northern Areas of Pakistan are even beautiful. Pakistan does get a bad perception from the Western media, and people tend to think Afghanistan and Pakistan are alike places, but thats not true.

Pakistan is a developing, lush green, and a moderate society. :)

Sultan
June 10th, 2005, 07:12 PM
Also, the last Polo world cup was held in Pakistan, at the Shandur Pass I believe. :)

capslock
June 10th, 2005, 07:22 PM
A beautiful thread my friend. I saw the Gilgit / Chitral game on Michael Palin's Himalya series on the BBC when he passed through the Shandur Pass. Very interesting and beautiful part of the world.... one day. :)

MoreOrLess
June 10th, 2005, 11:20 PM
Exellent photographs.

My brothers planning a trip to the Karakoram highway area right now, any recommendatuions Sultan? The Hunza Valley seems to get mentioned alot.

ManchesterISwonderful
June 10th, 2005, 11:25 PM
The Hunza Valley seems to get mentioned alot.


Got the Hunza Valley on my 'to go' places.


Some say it was Shangri-la(or the place where the idea(inspiration?) for Shangri-la came from)

MoreOrLess
June 11th, 2005, 04:58 PM
Got the Hunza Valley on my 'to go' places.

Some say it was Shangri-la(or the place where the idea(inspiration?) for Shangri-la came from)
Thats not exactly uncommon in that part of the world. I'm planning a trip to south west China myself this autumn and the county of Zhongdian in northern Yunnan province has actually been renamed Shangri-la in order to try and pull in a few more tourist dollars, Jiuzhaigou national park in northern Sichuan uses the comparason more than a little aswell.

Sultan
June 21st, 2005, 06:25 PM
Exellent photographs.

My brothers planning a trip to the Karakoram highway area right now, any recommendatuions Sultan? The Hunza Valley seems to get mentioned alot.

Sorry for the delayed reply MoreOrLess. Been really busy these days. Best time to go to the Karakoram is during the summer time. The Karakoram is in a lock down during winter time, due to the winter storms. The highway re-opens during the summer time.

You'd have to travel on the Karakoram Highway. The Karakoram Highway is also known as the Silk Road. The 1284-kilometer Karakoram Highway (KKH) linking Islamabad, Pakistan's capital and Kashgar at China is a stunning roadway winding through some of the most inhospitable terrain in the world, past the region of Chinese Turkestan and the great mountain ranges of the Himalayas, Karakorams and Pamirs, following one of the ancient Silk Road to the valleys of the Indus, Gilgit and Hunza rivers.

I've heard the Gov is going to upgrade the highway into a 'proper' highway, if you know what I mean. :)

You can find some nice pictures of the Karakoram area at the following link,

http://www.adventurephotographs.com/karakoram/index.asp

Its a nice place. Take lots of food, water, and something warm to wear, it can get cold. Ask your brother to take his camera with him, its a scenic area, and photography is a must. :)

You'd see the World's second tallest mountain there, the K2.

The whole area is beautiful, and must see. Including Hunza.

Reminder: Tell your brother not to forget his camera ! I hope he has a good time at the Karakoram, and in Pakistan, in general. :D

A couple of pictures from Hunza,

** In the picture below, you can see the Altit Fort in Hunza.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a400/upknews/altit_fort_hunza.jpg

** This picture shows Hunza during the Autumn Season.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a400/upknews/AutumofHunza.jpg

Sultan
June 21st, 2005, 06:45 PM
Got the Hunza Valley on my 'to go' places.


Some say it was Shangri-la(or the place where the idea(inspiration?) for Shangri-la came from)

I myself haven't been to Shangrila yet. But its a tourist resort built around a lake, the lake is called Kachura, but people usually call it 'Shangrila Lake' due to the resort. Also, I think its somewhere near Hunza. 'Shangrila' is a Chinesse word meaning, 'Heaven on Earth'.

Here's a picture of Shangrila,

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a400/upknews/shangrila.jpg

Some more info on Shangrila

http://www.pakistaniaviation.com/skardu/bcover.gif

In his famous book " Lost Horizon", James Hilton narrated a fictitious tale in which an airplane crash landed near a river bed, in the early 1920s. The surviving passengers came across some Buddhist monks from a nearby temple and sought their help, who took them to a lamasery which was very beautiful and filled with all sorts of fruits. The monks looked quite young although they claimed to be hundreds of years old. The idyllic place was called Shangrila, a Chinese word meaning "Heaven on Earth". There was also a hollywood movie made on this book. The name of that black-and-white movie is "Lost Horizons of Shangri-Law."

http://www.pakistaniaviation.com/skardu/skardu.jpg

The founder of Shangrila, late Brig. (Retd.) Mohammed Aslam Khan was inspired by the idea and decided to create a similar Shangrila in the northern areas of Pakistan.He acquired some land close to a beautiful lake called Kachura and planted an orchid with a large variety of fruits.

In 1983, a Resort was built at this place by Mr. Khan and was named "Shangrila". The plane was converted into a café and became one of the world's most unique tourist attractions.This resort quickly became famous for its natural beauty and tourists started pouring in from all over the world.

:)

JADI
June 21st, 2005, 09:52 PM
Let me clear.. Shangrila resort is not near Hunza/Gilgit, but a few kilometres away from Skardu in Baltistan. Baltistan is a neigboring district of Gilgit Agency. Baltistan, Gilgit forms Northern Areas of Pakistan together with the districts of Diamer, Ghanche and Ghizer.
Skardu is not on the Karakorum Highway, but can be visited from Gilgit as a road has in the recent years been built to connect the two districts.

Here is info abt Skardu, which i found on a website:

Skardu is the main town of Baltistan along the wide bank of the river Indus it is small town and The largest district of the Northern Areas, Baltistan is home to some of the highest peaks in the world, the Karakoram Range, and is very popular with Mountaineering Expeditions. It is equally popular with high altitude trekkers, with treks to Baltoro Glacier, K-2 Base Camp and Concordia being especially renowned. Skardu by road, lies approximately 5 hours away from Gilgit and 10 hours drive from Besham. A daily flight to and from Islamabad is also in operation.

Skardu has a character of its own and has a very interesting scenery. The Indus becomes wide and still here. The town is surronded by dry rugged mountains and sand dunes.

Skardu is famous for the many trekking and adventure spots around it. There are numerous treks starting from Skardu. The near by Satpara Lake and Shangri-la resort are very famous among the local travellers and is visited by people from all over the country during June & July.



Here are maps of Northern Pakistan:
http://www.lockhartsteele.com/images/indopak/IndoPakMap.jpg

http://www.pilotguides.com/images/content/destination_guide/asia/pakistan/pakistan_karakoraum_routemap.jpg


I visited Skardu in 1997. The flight journey from Islamabad to Skardu itself was a spectacular journey. Flying shoulder by shoulder with some of the
highest mountains on the earth is a truely remarkable journey, which i only can recommend. The only drawback is that the flight is subject to weather.

During my journey to Skardu I made a brief visit to the the Shangrila Resort. The setting of the resort is in a heavenlike place. Its an oasis surrounded by tall arid mountains. As u can see in the picture posted by Sultan the lower Kachura Lake is surrounded partly by Shangrila Resort and some other hotel resort. If u r visiting Skardu and climbing and trekking is not a part of your journey,then Shangrila Resort is the perfect destination to relax or honeymooning :).

JADI
June 21st, 2005, 11:14 PM
Here are some pictures of Skardu and Baltistan.. Enjoy :)

http://www.britishcouncil.org.pk/graphics/lop9.jpg
Kachura Lake

http://www.britishcouncil.org.pk/graphics/lop10.jpg
Sand dunes Skardu

http://www.palinstravels.co.uk/photos/him_photobook/main/him_p_035_01_l.jpg
Skardu Valley

http://ravi.lums.edu.pk/las/pictures/120_51.jpg
Satpara Lake

http://www.photoatlas.com/photo/pakistan_dunes_skardu_valley.jpg
Sand dunes, Skardu Valley

http://www.pakistanpage.net/gallery/main/valleys/skardun.jpg
Sheosar Lake Skardu

http://www.possi.de/willkommen/deosaibridge.jpg
Deosai Bridge

http://images.encarta.msn.com/xrefmedia/sharemed/targets/images/pho/000a4/000a4f78.jpg
Terraced fields along Shyok River, Baltistan

http://fieldtouring.com/images/k2/en-route%20to%20Askole.jpg
Enroute to Askole

StormShadow
June 22nd, 2005, 12:11 AM
Pakistan is extremely beautiful. Where is this Shandur pass located near ? Iran, Afghanista, Kashmir or India ?

ty for the pics.

JADI
June 22nd, 2005, 12:21 AM
Shandur Pass is located in northern Pakistan close to Afghanistan and China. It lies midway between Chitral and Gilgit. Its deserted all year round except in July when the Shandur Polo festival is held.
Btw not all pictures are of Shandur pass in this thread. Pictures on page 2 are of other parts of Northern Pakistan.

Sultan
June 29th, 2005, 02:48 AM
Thanks for the info Jadi. :)