View Full Version : The Bodrum Castle and The Museum of Underwater Archaeology


CityZen
September 5th, 2006, 02:16 PM
The Castle
http://www.bigglook.com/biggtravel/images/bodrum/bodrum_kalesi.jpg

History
The Castle of St. Peter the Liberator of the Order of the Knights of the Hospital of St. John of Rhodes - to give it its full, comprehensive title - is Bodrum's acclaimed landmark. Over the period of six centuries it has served as a military garrison, a compound enclosing a tiny village, and even as a fortress prison. Today it houses one of the finest museums of nautical archaeology in the world.
The castle is built on a promontory which, according to Herodotus, was a small island called Zephyria at the time of the first Dorian invasions which occurred around the time of the Trojan Wars. By the time king Mausolus (377-353 BC) came to rule Caria and moved the capital from Mylasa to Halicarnassus, today's Bodrum, Zephyrion was already a small peninsula joined to the mainland by debris and landfill. This peninsula is believed to have been the location of Mausolus's palace built near the site of an Early Classical temple of Apollo, although some authorities prefer to place the presumed venue of the palace on the mainland just north of the peninsula. The highly strategic nature of the promontory strongly supports the view that it was indeed the site of the palace or citadel, but unfortunately there is no solid proof of this in ancient sources and all possible vestiges have long since disappeared.

The destruction of an edifice on the promontory dating to that early era - if one did exist - may have occurred when the city was captured by the Macedonian forces of Alexander the Great or, perhaps, in the Arab raids in the latter half of the seventh century AD when Rhodes and Cos were overrun, although Halicarnassus is not specifically mentioned among their conquests. A structure there also may have fallen prey to an earthquake.

History does record, however, and our own eyes bear witness today, that a medieval castle was built on the small rocky peninsula on the east side of Bodrum harbor and records show that this castle was built by a company of men collectively known as the Knights of the Hospital of St. John of Rhodes.
http://images.world66.com/bo/dr/um/bodrum_kales_galleryfull


Knights of St. John
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After the Christian religion was declared legal by Constantine the Great in AD 312 it spread throughout the Roman Empire, and soon thereafter pilgrims began to find their way to Jerusalem to worship at the Christian shrines. Even after Jerusalem surrendered to the Moslem Arab armies of Caliph Omar in the year 638 pilgrim traffic continued to be tolerated, with the exception of the brief reign of the demented fanatic Caliph Hakem. In those centuries Jerusalem saw - in addition to the building of churches and monasteries - the foundation of hospices to house and care for poor and ill pilgrims suffering from the hazards of the long journey and rampant diseases.

The precise date of the foundation of the Order of the Knights of St. John is difficult to determine. Some attempts have been made to trace its origins to a hospice reportedly founded in Jerusalem about AD 600 on the orders of Pope Gregory the Great and to an associated grant of a request by Charlemagne made of Harun al Rashid ca. AD 800 to enlarge it. More plausible, however, is the more generally accepted version which sets its beginnings in Jerusalem in the immediate aftermath of the First Crusade.

When Jerusalem fell to the armed hosts of the First Crusade in July 1099, the victorious crusaders met a most resourceful, energetic and enterprising man named Brother Gerard, superior of a hospice named after St. John the Baptist. The hospice was an adjunct of the Abbey of St. Mary of the Latins and it is believed to have been founded by merchants from the Italian trading city of Amalfi. Brother Gerard's exceptional administrative and organizational abilities were so impressive that the leaders, later followed by the kings and nobility of Europe, showered his mother house - the Hospital of St. John - with extensive endowments. At the same time some of the knights, having fulfilled their crusading vow and having little in their own countries to return to, found an appropriate field of action opened to them by Brother Gerard: they joined the company of like-minded men to form an organization which grew rapidly and was given official status of a knightly religious Order by a papal decree (Bull) issued in the year 1113. Thus the Order of the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem was born, and although such details of organization as classes of membership changed somewhat through the years the basic structure remained.

Realistic portrayal of these knights, known in brief as Hospitallers, is made difficult by prejudice. Historical sources and even many modern writers all too often display blindly passionate adulation on the one hand or bigoted hostility on the other, but we can be quite certain that they were men of their times, with all the virtues and vices of their contemporaries. Their initial military role was limited to escorting pilgrims through hostile territory, but it was soon expanded to castle defense and then to offensive action in disciplined formations. This discipline and obedience to orders is what distinguished them from the headstrong and fractious barons ruling the various principalities and fiefs conquered by the crusaders, and these qualities made the Order of great value as a dependable instrument of military power.

The Order was ruled by a Grand Master elected for life and responsible only to the pope; membership was limited to those of noble birth and its multinational, multilingual nature was accommodated by division into seven Langues (or "tongues"), each commanded by a Pillier (or "pillar"). Knights joining the Order were obliged to take vows of obedience, poverty and chastity, but, especially in the following centuries - when even some popes kept mistresses and lived in worldly splendor - it is naive to expect that all members complied with these strictures. Indeed, the Hospitallers also became very wealthy on income derived from their extensive European endowments, but they possessed one asset acknowledged by friend and foe alike: courage in battle.

Not even this courage, however was of no avail against the Moslem forces united and inspired by the leadership of the great Saladin who inflicted a crushing defeat on the Christian army at the Horns of Hattin and went on to retake Jerusalem in 1187. After its fall, notwithstanding some respite brought about by the following Crusades, the Christian position in the Holy Land steadily deteriorated, with the Hospitallers playing a major role as an offensive and defensive rearguard until the loss of the last stronghold, Acre, in 1291. The Knights now moved to their possessions in Cyprus where they were additionally awarded the land holdings of the Templars, a rival Order suppressed and practically exterminated by the pope and the French king in 1307-1312. In the meantime the Hospitallers were starting on a new enterprise: lured by a hypothetical claim of a Genoese adventurer to the islands of Cos and Rhodes, the Knights conquered Rhodes, theoretically on his behalf (1309), and then persuaded the pope to grant them title to this strategic island. By these ethically shady maneuvers Grand Master Foulques de Villaret acquired for the Order a sovereign state, and the Hospitallers, now known as the Knights of Rhodes, were launched on their new course of naval power and expansion in the Eastern Mediterranean and the Aegean.

At this time, in the words of H.J.A.Sire, author of a new history sympathetic to the Order: "the Knights of Rhodes rapidly formed a coherent strategy of territorial acquisition"..."seized the small island of Simie (sic), in the very jaws of the Gulf of Doris" and "by 1319 the knights held all the Southern Sporades as far north as Lerro". About the year 1337 the Hospitallers reconquered Lango (Cos), and Smyrna (Izmir) was taken in 1344 by a combined papal, Venetian, Cypriot and Hospitaller force, with a Knight of Rhodes appointed commander. This policy of acquisitive expansion, based on military and naval power - not to mention skill in diplomatic intrigue - brought the Order into rivalry with all of the states, large and small, that were contending over the spoils of the crumbling Byzantine Empire. The first of these spoils was, of course, the island of Rhodes, a titular property of the Byzantines.

Having become masters of an island empire the Knights needed a naval force to defend it, to maintain lines of communication between their far-flung possessions and, according to one source, to protect Christian trade with Turkey. The latter is not as preposterous as it may appear, even considering that the Knights were a militant religious Order, because throughout the ages trade and profit have usually tended to obscure ideological considerations. At the same time galleys flying the flag of the Hospital were also preying on the shipping lanes, justified by a papal ban on trade with Moslem powers. In this fluid and complex state of affairs the Knights of Rhodes prospered, until even a pope complained about their conspicuous consumption. The growing power of the Ottoman Turks that could have threatened the Order's possessions received a serious blow from Tamerlane who crushed the Turkish armies at Ankara in 1402, and the ensuing eleven years of wars of succession weakened Ottoman power further giving the Knights years of respite and time to fortify Rhodes till it was regarded as impregnable.

The sense of security was shattered when news reached Rhodes in 1453 of the conquest of Constantinople. The new sultan, henceforth known as Mehmet the Conqueror, was not one to suffer the stranglehold that the Knights' island empire was exercising on the coasts of Turkey, but his priorities were elsewhere and it was not until 1480 that his forces besieged the city. The Conqueror was not with his men and Rhodes avoided capture, but only just. The sultan's death in 1481, followed by events that placed Prince Jem in the hands of the Order, delayed the fall of Rhodes for nearly a half century and during that period the Knights of Rhodes engaged in conduct that brought dishonor to their knighthood and faith.

Prince Jem, one of the two sons of Mehmet the Conqueror, losing the fight for succession to his brother Beyazit, applied to the Knights of Rhodes for temporary refuge and transportation to Europe. The Order agreed and Jem landed in Rhodes where he was handsomely treated at first and induced to sign a treaty that would give great concessions to the Hospital should he ever regain the Ottoman throne. Then he was transferred to France and detained, then imprisoned and made the subject of barter and trade. Eventually turned over to the pope and then to the French king, the prince was finally poisoned. During the thirteen years of Jem's detention the Order received an annual stipend of 45,000 ducats from the reigning sultan for keeping the unfortunate prince from pressing his claim to the throne. Grand Master Pierre D'Aubusson also managed to extract 25,000 ducats from Jem's wife and mother, resident in Cairo, on the false pretense that the sum was needed to set him free and transport to Egypt. These machiavellian intrigues certainly kept Rhodes safe from invasion while Prince Jem was alive, but upon his death and the death of Beyazit the next sultan was free to deal with the Order and, in the end, the reputedly impregnable fortress was taken by the armies of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent in December, 1522.

The terms of surrender - presumably also requiring the evacuation of the other Hospitaller castles - allowed the knights to depart with honor and they sailed to the castle of Candia in Crete. Shortly thereafter (1530) they were given possession of the island of Malta by Emperor Charles V and there, now as Knights of Malta, they built another fortress, one that successfully withstood the Great Siege of the Ottomans in 1565. Sultan Suleiman, then seventy years old, did not command the attacking force in person but entrusted it to a veteran of Rhodes, Mustafa Pasha, a soldier in his seventies, while the naval element sailed under Piale Pasha and was reinforced by Turgut Reis, the Dragut of western lore. In command of Malta was Grand Master Jean Parisot de la Valette, also a veteran of the siege of Rhodes, whose stubborn, valiant defense won the day. His name lives on in the capital of Malta, Valletta.


The power of the Ottomans was dealt another blow in 1571 when an allied Christian naval force that included ships of the Knights of Malta defeated the Turkish fleet in the battle of Lepanto. After this the Ottoman Turks ceased to be a threat to the Maltese Knights who now devoted themselves to the harassment of the nominally Ottoman possessions on the North African coast from where, in turn, Barbary corsairs harassed the Mediterranean trade of Europe. The Order also became embroiled in European conflicts and its importance steadily declined until it was unceremoniously dissolved by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1798.

The Sovereign Order of Malta was eventually revived, but not as a fighting force. It still exists in many countries as a religious and a charitable institution mostly engaged in works associated with the provision of hospital and medical assistance and, through its aristocratic members, it continues to exercise power in the affairs of the Vatican and, in the affairs of the world.

CityZen
September 5th, 2006, 02:27 PM
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Fifty-two museums from all over Europe were entered in the "European Museum of the Year Award '95" (EMYA'95) competition; forty-five were declared eligible to compete and twelve went into the final round. The Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology, representing Turkey, survived the initial selection process, became one of twelve finalists and was awarded a "Certificate of Special Commendation 1995" at the competition finals held on June 10 in Sweden"

About The Museum
The Bodrum Castle officially became a museum in 1961 with Mr. Haluk Elbe as its first Director, but its real though unofficial beginnings go back a little further, to 1959, when the first appropriation of Turkish government funds (equivalent to about US$50.00) was received in Bodrum for preliminary repairs of breeches in the castle walls. The first collection of objects retrieved from the depths was stored and exhibited in 1959 in the Knights' Hall which today gives access to the Carian Princess exhibit. This embryo of the Bodrum Museum included amphorae brought by Bodrum sponge divers as well as objects recovered during the exploratory dives made by Peter Throckmorton, Mustafa Kapkin and Honor Frost in 1958, the year when those pioneers planted the first seeds of scientific nautical archaeology.

When the Bodrum Castle was designated as a museum it was little more than a romantic ruin attractive only to those interested in traces left by medieval crusading knights on the Anatolian shore. For that story click (THE CASTLE). Castle restoration projects and the beautification of grounds were started by the first director, Mr. Haluk Elbe, whose name has been given to the art gallery at the entrance to the museum. But it is the director, Mr. Oguz Alpozen, (retired in july 2005) who deserves credit for implementing the "living museum" concept which attracts hundreds of thousands visitors and which has earned international renown and recognition in the form of the Museum of the Year Award. In the present time Bodrum Museum of the Underwater Archaeology is directed by Mr.Yaşar Yıldız.


History of The Museum
The transformation of a ruined, dilapidated castle into a great museum of world importance was the work of vision, conviction and perseverance and, as is usual with all living organisms, time elapsed between conception and birth. The first seed was sown in 1958 by Peter Throckmorton, an American journalist-diver whose pioneering efforts - brought to fruition by Prof. George F. Bass - inaugurated scientific nautical archaeology. An early and enthusiastic convert to Throckmorton's vision of the castle as a museum was Hakki Gultekin, the director of the Izmir Museum, who brought this matter to the attention of the central government authorities in Ankara. The cause was also championed in the national press by Azra Erhad, a respected academic and the co-translator of such Classical works as the Iliad and the Odyssey into Turkish. These efforts resulted in the first grant of government funds (1959) and the placement of the castle under the jurisdiction of the Bodrum director of education, raising it from the status of an abandoned former prison. The Knights' Hall, with its graceful vaulted ceiling, became the nucleus of the museum-to-be when it became the repository of amphoras previously recovered by Turkish sponge divers as well as of the first artifacts excavated from under the sea by Captain Kemal Aras, Peter Throckmorton, Mustafa Kapkin and Honor Frost, all members of the initial explorations of coastal wrecks.
These early initiatives and continued perseverance were rewarded in 1961 when the Turkish government, by official decree, created the Bodrum Museum in the castle under the jurisdiction of the Ministry of Culture, appointing Haluk Elbe as its first director. It was during his tenure, between 1961 and 1973, that the work of restoration of the ruined castle began with repairs of the southern walls and of the knights' chapel which had been turned into a mosque by the Ottomans. This venue became the museum's first exhibit hall to be opened to the public (1963) at which time it housed the Mycenaean Collection, artifacts of the Mycenaean period excavated on the Bodrum peninsula near the village of Dirmil. During these years the Knights' Hall was also properly restored and assigned to house the Carian or Classical Collection while artifacts recovered from the sea were exhibited in an adjunct building to the west. Haluk Elbe also planted many of the trees and shrubs that today make the grounds of the castle so attractive. He is commemorated by having the Haluk Elbe Art Gallery at the entrance to the castle named in his honor.

After the departure of Haluk Elbe, under directors Nurettin Yardimci (1973-1975) and Ilhan Aksit (1976-1978), the pace of restoration of the castle and the development of the museum slowed down, with the significant exception of the English Tower which was repaired in 1975. It was resumed and accelerated with the appointment of Oguz Alpozen to the museum directorship in 1978.

By the time he was appointed museum director Oguz Alpozen had already been associated with the museum in one capacity or another since 1962 when, as a student, he participated in the underwater excavations under the leadership of George Bass. In later years, until 1971, he took part in these excavations both as a qualified diver and as a commissioner representing the Turkish Ministry of Culture, so when he assumed the directorship of the museum he was already a champion of underwater archaeology. Realizing that this new field of science was of immense value in uncovering the mysteries of the past, and determined to keep the results of the excavations in Bodrum, Alpozen prevailed upon the authorities to re-designate the museum as the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology.

With this stress on the nautical archaeology role in mind Alpozen then proceeded to complete the restoration and beautification work started by Haluk Elbe making additional venues available for the exposition of artifacts recovered from the sea. This emphasis also allowed the museum to cooperate more closely with the Institute of Nautical Archaeology (INA) which, with its academic and financial resources, was able to continue making trail-blazing underwater excavations which drew world-wide attention to Bodrum. Finds, such as the "Oldest Known Shipwreck", became known not only in specialist circles but also among the wider public due to reports in the prestigious National Geographic magazine making the Bodrum museum a prime attraction for visitors from all over the world.

Just when these stunning underwater discoveries and recoveries were being made fate intervened to redress the balance, directing everyone's attention once again towards treasures still buried beneath the earth. In 1989 an earth-moving backhoe, digging for the foundations of a new building, brought to light a sarcophagus containing the remains of a clearly wealthy woman and excitement reached a peak when preliminary scrutiny indicated that these may belong to Queen Ada of the Hecatomnid dynasty that included Mausolus, the renowned ruler of Caria. The fascinating story associated with this find and the befitting venue created for its display will be found in the exhibits section detailed elsewhere on this site.

Another intervention of fate took place in 1993 when excavations in front of the English Tower brought to light the remains of prisoners chained together in the manner known to have been used for galley slaves. These unknown victims of past cruelty and callousness had been discarded in the castle's trash pile, so they called for more humane remembrance. They were given a place, and they were assigned the sad but illuminating posthumous task of giving the passing visitor reason to pause and reflect on this blemish on the romantic and partisan picture all too often painted of medieval knighthood in the West.

Even the most instructive, impressive or rare relics of the past, however, fail to captivate unless displayed in a manner that makes them appealing to the viewer, and this is the field in which the Bodrum Museum excels. Convinced that museum items must be displayed in a relevant context in order to attract and keep public interest, Oguz Alpozen directed the creation of graphic tableaux which brought life and meaning to objects that normally would hold only the interest of scholars. Care has also been given to the ambiance of the totality of the museum - including the grounds and facilities - with the result that it has become a place where it is a pleasure to be, and it is this novel and creative approach that places the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology among the finest museums in the world. To the extent possible we have tried to convey the sense of the museum in the various sections of this site, but virtual reality cannot recreate the fragrance of flowers or the gentle caress of the Aegean breeze.

Come and visit.



Opening Hours of The Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archeology:

Between: 09:00 am 12:00 am and 02:00 pm and 07:00 pm
Closed on Mondays

The Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archeology

Address: The Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archeology
Bodrum - Mugla - Turkey
Telephone: +90 252 316 25 16
Fax: +90 252 313 76 46

Haradrim
September 7th, 2006, 12:31 AM
some views of castle:

http://img388.imageshack.us/img388/3720/bcb2gf0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img388.imageshack.us/img388/7828/bodrumcastlebt6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/9856/bodrum2qg7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Haradrim
October 5th, 2006, 07:43 PM
http://img446.imageshack.us/img446/6058/ghghx6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img446.imageshack.us/img446/8297/16421ut7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

System_Halted
October 6th, 2006, 10:48 PM
Great info and pics. Thanx! :scouserd:

Kuvvaci
April 4th, 2007, 02:13 PM
Wonderful thread!

icy
June 20th, 2007, 09:44 PM
some views of castle:

http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/9856/bodrum2qg7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

wow hillarious...

dagcan
March 2nd, 2010, 12:16 PM
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Zeynal44
March 2nd, 2010, 07:08 PM
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Bichoes
November 28th, 2010, 09:04 AM
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Inside the castle, former Hospitalier's Church.

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