View Full Version : Valencia's Tourism Boom


hkskyline
April 27th, 2007, 06:28 AM
Valencia's tourist boom down to urban planning and spending, but at a price?
20 April 2007

VALENCIA, Spain (AP) - Forget Barcelona, Bilbao or Seville. Now it is Valencia's turn to bask in the international limelight.

Spain's third-largest city has ascended travelers' must-visit list since America's Cup winner Alinghi -- from landlocked Switzerland -- picked it to host the 32nd America's Cup.

But the America's Cup is only one part of an aggressive urban transformation plan set off 19 years ago to return the city's architectural heritage to its citizens.

"To be here over the last 20 years has been very humbling -- it's a big success because the city has totally changed," said Jose Salinas, director of Valencia Tourism since 1991.

"Valencia has taken a big leap forward; it is now a more open and cosmopolitan city than it was before and the people -- locals and visitors -- are embracing it."

Tourists have responded, just as they did with Barcelona following the 1992 Olympic Games and Bilbao after the opening of the Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim Museum in 1997.

The latest statistics show Valencia experienced the biggest jump in tourism of any European city. The 1.6 million visitors who came here in 2006 were nearly five times the number who came in 1992.

Better travel connections, including the rise of low-cost airlines, the advent of the Internet, a mushrooming of hotels, conference halls, and museum and art galleries are why Valencia is expected to dwarf the 2 million visitor mark in 2007 -- which will make it third only to Madrid and Barcelona.

Tourist arrivals will include a million people expected here for the America's Cup. But to many, the futuristic Palace of the Arts is what put Valencia on the map.

Designed by the superstar architect Santiago Calatrava, who happens to be a native son, the euro250 million (US$334 million) palace is part of a complex of museums and other attractions called the City of Arts and Sciences. The futuristic white buildings -- most of them designed by Calatrava -- include a planetarium, an aquarium, and the arts palace, which is an opera house that looks a little like a floating gladiator helmet.

Like Bilbao, Valencia has a Calatrava-designed bridge, a renowned work by British architect Norman Foster (the Conference Center), and a city mayor willing to spend to transform the city.

Call it the Bilbao effect.

"Calatrava's designs have given a new image to the city," Salinas said. "But there has been a much more direct effect between Bilbao and the museum. In Valencia, there are a lot more attractions, a more complete product."

The City of Arts and Sciences is set within the Turia Gardens, a drained river renovated into a park in the 1990s, and Calatrava's next work will be here also, a 70-meter high public square to be completed in 2008. "Agora" will be dwarfed only by the neighboring "Three Towers," three skyscrapers ranging from 220 to 301 meters, with the latter 81-story building to be the tallest in Europe.

Mayor Rita Barbera has overseen the renovation of 64 historic sites in the city at a cost of euro180 million (US$241 million) during her 16-year tenure. Not since the 15th century has this mercantile city -- still known for its UNESCO protected silk markets -- seen such a renaissance.

Barbera and Salinas were responsible for the America's Cup bid in 2003, which has sped up the planned renovation of the port. With the cup returning to Europe for the first time in 156 years, the growing interest coincides with a friendlier format, with organizers shortening the races and putting fans closer to the sailing than ever thanks to Valencia's deep shoreline. With a museum, cafes and restaurants, and team bases to tour, the America's Cup has opened up more than ever as it looks to shed its title as an elitist event for the yachting crowd in places like Newport, R.I., where it was held for 50-odd years.

"It was a win-win situation. Thanks to the America's Cup we have been able to advance the work behind certain infrastructures," Salinas said. "The exposure from this event -- an international event that will hit all across the world -- has accelerated the process and provided the city with a platform to improve its tourist image, giving Valencia a certain presence as a unique destination."

Consorcio 2007 -- a partnership between the mayor's office, the regional and national governments and private firms -- has spent euro500 million (US$680 million) on infrastructure surrounding the marina, which includes Port America's Cup, the docklands and some of the city's oldest neighborhoods. And it's only a fragment of the euro2 billion (US$2.65 billion) spent since works initially began in 2003.

Architectural firms GHT and Jean Nouvel will reshape the immediate area surrounding Port America's Cup once the event is over, with the Turia Gardens extended to the sea, clearing out old industrial lands, parts of "la huerta" (crop-growing hamlets) and a section of the Grau neighborhood to make way for high-rise apartment blocks and green spaces.

Lying 500 meters (yards) from the port is Cabanyal, a once-proud fishing village that is the oldest neighborhood after the historic city center, a working-class "pueblo" of marina homes showing the signs of age, with many of the mosaic-covered buildings overtaken by squatting gypsies.

If the six-lane Avenue Blasco Ibanez is extended to the beach as planned, it will run directly through here, taking out 10 city blocks with it.

Even though the America's Cup is expected to generate euro3.7 billion (US$4.9 billion) in revenue while creating 40,770 jobs for the region over the next eight years, not everyone is happy about the changes in Valencia. "To build (America's Cup) infrastructure, we've destroyed heritage. We're losing our identity in exchange for tourism," said 43-year-old firefighter Juanjo Martinez, out watching the yachts from Port America's Cup.

"Building attractions like the Science and Arts complex -- which is a cultural attraction -- will bring many tourists and is a different thing. But building the infrastructure for the America's Cup is only for a certain few people. After it leaves, who will this area serve?"

Salinas, the tourism director, believes the investment will pay for itself.

"We don't look at the Cabanyal project as a way of attracting tourists. It's thought of in a way of what's best for the city. It is a side-effect of change that will be good for city sense and its citizens," he said.

Then there are the costs.

"The America's Cup? It's great. I get to work longer hours for less money than before," 62-year-old taxi driver Jose Gutierrez said. "Valencia is Spain's most beautiful city. But it comes at a cost and I'm paying out so it can look like it does today."

More neighborhoods and a new soccer stadium will come, maybe even a Formula One racetrack. A recent newspaper editorial signaled Valencians are tired of change -- and just want tourists to accept them for who they are.

"Cities are not theme parks that have to compete to see who offers the most novel attraction. While (London, Paris, Rome) knew to conserve their identity -- here it has been lost forever."

hkskyline
June 22nd, 2007, 06:56 AM
Valencia A fresh breeze
The Spanish city by the sea unfurls a new look to host the America's Cup
30 March 2007
USA Today

VALENCIA, Spain -- For nearly six centuries, the cathedral in this Mediterranean port city has been the reputed home of the Holy Grail, an agate chalice that Catholic tradition says Jesus drank from during the Last Supper.

Now, Valencia is playing host to sailing's version of the Holy Grail, the buxom silver trophy known as America's Cup. And with a spiffed-up waterfront and homegrown "starchitect" Santiago Calatrava's futuristic arts complex as backdrops, the regional capital once considered a gloomy stepsister to more glamorous Barcelona and Madrid is brimming with civic pride.

Over the next three months, an estimated 1 million spectators will converge here to watch the aquatic equivalent of Formula 1 race cars test their mettle in the first European staging of the America's Cup since the initial race off Britain's Isle of Wight in 1851.

It's a sea change for a onetime backwater best known for oranges and paella, the popular saffron-flavored rice dish cooked in large, cast-iron skillets ("paella" is said to derive from the word for "two-handled frying pan" in the local language, Valenciano).

"We always have the skeptics who look at this as an elitist event that doesn't trickle down to the everyday man," says American-born Linda Casanova, a relocation expert and interpreter who has lived in Valencia for the past 36 years. But, she says, being selected as the setting for one of the world's most prestigious sporting competitions is "a new calling card."

Like Barcelona before it hosted the 1992 Summer Olympics, Valencia had been a city that turned its back to the sea. Four years ago, before dredging started on the man-made channel that forms the heart of the Port America's Cup, "this was a no-go zone," says America's Cup spokesman Marcus Hutchinson, gazing toward the new docks that will shelter a gaggle of mega-yachts during next month's Louis Vuitton Cup and the America's Cup match, June 23-July 7. "It was full of dead dogs and abandoned supermarket trolleys."

Not anymore.

On weekends past, locals would confine their seaside outings to Malvarrosa beach, the wide strand that stretches north of the harbor, and to an adjacent string of seafood and paella restaurants that are jammed to the gills on Sunday afternoons. (No self- respecting Valenciano eats paella, which here is often made with rabbit and chicken, for dinner.) But on a recent Sunday, unusually balmy temperatures helped lure throngs of couples and families to the port complex, where cranes and yellow construction tape signaled a frantic push to finish spectator viewing stands and the last of more than two dozen new bars and restaurants before racing heats up next month.

The park centerpiece is British architect David Chipperfield's Veles e Vents pavilion, an angular, four-level white structure that struts toward the open sea and will offer terrific views of the sailboats skirmishing just a few miles offshore. But the buildings that have come to define Valencia are inland, along the verdant remnants of a river that was diverted outside the city after a disastrous flood 50 years ago.

Valencia-born Calatrava, an architect and engineer famous for his swooping curves and allusions to human and animal forms, designed Athens' Olympic Stadium and an addition to the Milwaukee Art Museum. He also is planning a spiraled Chicago condominium tower that would be the tallest building in the USA. His hometown City of Arts and Sciences, a vast complex 15 years in the making, is Valencia's answer to Bilbao, the northern Spanish city that has become synonymous with American architect Frank Gehry's Guggenheim Museum.

Some locals complain that Calatrava's form can trump function: His gleaming, tile-covered Palace of the Arts (aka "Darth Vader's helmet"), which opened in late 2005, is said to have obstructed views; one wag equates the interior ambience with a public pool's dressing room. Still, the constellation of structures and reflecting pools in the City of Arts and Sciences, from Europe's largest aquarium to a science museum reminiscent of a dinosaur skeleton, is dazzling enough to leave first-time visitors agape.

The transformations at the City of Arts and Sciences and along Valencia's waterfront have been echoed in the city's medieval heart.

Ten years ago, it was considered dangerous to wander the old quarter after dark, recalls Pablo Bru, whose family has owned the San Nicolas restaurant in the Barrio del Carmen for the past quarter century. Today, Bru peddles such specialties as agua de Valencia (an aperitif made with local orange juice and sparkling wine) and sea bream wrapped in parchment paper to an increasingly young, hip clientele.

If the district's twisting cobblestone streets are deserted an hour past sunset, it's not because of crime worries. The movida (nightlife) doesn't crank up until after midnight, when a convivial wave of young partiers starts washing along the main drag, Calle de Caballeros.

Yes, there's a just-opened Starbucks nearby, and the popular Tasca tapas bar offers a "hamburgesa super size me." But the area remains, for the most part, blessedly bereft of the generic chain stores that mar other cities' historic quarters. Indeed, Valencia's old town is a haven for both the avant-garde (think video artwork hidden behind massive, centuries-old doors) and tradition-bound (the local treats of choice remain a sweet, nutty drink called horchata and deep-fried buouelos, or doughnuts, dunked in melted dark chocolate.)

For now, anyway, the tradition being celebrated in the waters off Valencia is alien to most residents. A new 650-berth pleasure boat marina notwithstanding, the city and nearby Costa Blanca aren't a magnet for sailors; the more scenic and yacht-friendly Balearic Islands of Ibiza, Mallorca and Menorca are less than 100 miles away.

Jon Ziskind, a sailor on the U.S. team BMW Oracle Racing, notes that while a contender's broken mast is front-page news in sailing- centric Auckland, New Zealand (site of the previous America's Cup), pre-regatta intrigues have been greeted with a collective shrug in Spain.

But on a harbor catamaran tour, skipper Carlos Perez's enthusiasm is as fresh as the summer breezes that helped nail the city's selection as America's Cup venue. (The defending team hails from landlocked Switzerland.)

"It's a shame it took a country without a sea to show us that we have some of the best sailing conditions in the world," Perez says.

A new civic obsession with bowsprits instead of bullfights and soccer balls? Not likely. But one thing seems certain: Valencia tourism is on a rollicking downwind reach.

---

E-mail lbly@usatoday.com

If you go

Getting there: There are no non-stop flights from the USA to Valencia, but several airlines offer connections via Madrid. Or you can fly to a hub such as London or Frankfurt and connect on such discounters as Openjet and Ryanair.

Where to stay: Among the newest hotels are the 135-room Westin Valencia, set in a converted 1917 wool factory (011-34-96-362-5900 or westin.com/valencia; doubles from about $245) and the oceanfront Las Arenas Balneario resort (011-34-96-312-0600 or valencialasarenashotel.com; doubles from about $200). The sleek Hotel Neptuno is within spitting distance of Port America's Cup (011- 34-96-356-7777 or hotelneptunovalencia.com; doubles from about $155).

Where to eat: The best place to sample paella is at La Rosa or another of the restaurants fronting Malvarrosa Beach (about $20 per person). In the historic district, Burdeos in Love offers traditional fare and gourmet tapas in a modern setting (about $45 for a three-course tasting menu). In the basement of the aquarium at Santiago Calatrava's City of Arts and Sciences, Restaurante Submarino specializes in (what else?) seafood, with spectacular views of fish that aren't on the menu (entrees about $20).

Information: Valencia Tourism and Convention Bureau, www.turisvalencia.es , or Tourist Office of Spain, 212-265-8822 or spain.info.

Cristovão471
June 22nd, 2007, 04:00 PM
I really wanted to visit Valencia while in spain, but not enough time, next time though.

Sbz2ifc
June 22nd, 2007, 11:54 PM
I visited Valencia 4 months ago and my main objective was the City of Arts and Sciences. Even though the architecture is great and I want to see it again after the completion of the Agora, I must say that it's not a very people-friendly place. It's kind of "cold" and it's easy to notice that it's made especially for tourists.

http://fc03.deviantart.com/fs18/f/2007/159/3/f/At_the_Opera_by_macaque.jpg


Anyway, Valencia has much more to offer besides CAC. The center has gems like El Miguelete, La Lonja de la Seda, Mercado de Colon, the post office and the city hall. Turia is a really great park, and along it you cand find a couple of interesting bridges, including two of Calatrava.

I would have posted a couple more pictures, but I'm too lazy to upload them. :)

kub86
June 23rd, 2007, 02:51 AM
I went to Valencia over New Years 07. It was like 70 degrees and some locals were wearing fur coats! I'm glad Valencia's getting more attention, it deserves it. Sometimes I felt like the only American tourist there, which was a weird feeling since they used to be omnipresent whenever I travel...

The futuristic complex was the highlight of my trip though. I don't think I've ever been anywhere more modern.

A few of my pictures:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/captain_cookie/Spain/DSC05399.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/captain_cookie/Spain/DSC05403.jpg

And I don't think the complex was built *just* for tourists. The Science Center was only in Spanish, but I'm guessing it was more like a children's educational science center for the region. The oceanografic was my favorite. Another minus was that the center was built in an inconvenient location. The subway stop was really far away.

OtAkAw
June 23rd, 2007, 10:10 AM
^^Wow, it looks so nice there. I agree with you, even in pictures, I've never seen another place that modern.

LMCA1990
June 23rd, 2007, 11:23 PM
I wanna see #'s.

rousseau
June 24th, 2007, 04:52 AM
I went to Valencia over New Years 07. It was like 70 degrees and some locals were wearing fur coats!
I was there at the same time. I think that's a bit of a typo on the temperature in your post, to put it mildly! It was about 20 degrees in January in Valencia this year when I was there, and it was very comfortable and very sunny. Still, I noticed older folks with coats on, too.

hkskyline
June 24th, 2007, 04:54 AM
I was there at the same time. I think that's a bit of a typo on the temperature in your post, to put it mildly! It was about 20 degrees in January in Valencia this year when I was there, and it was very comfortable and very sunny. Still, I noticed older folks with coats on, too.

F vs. C.

rousseau
June 24th, 2007, 05:09 AM
F vs. C.
Huh?

Edit: Oh, Fahrenheit! Right. Why didn't the poster specify that in his post if he/she were going to use Fahrenheit?

AdamChobits
June 24th, 2007, 03:55 PM
hkskyline seems to know a lot about tourism. I lot of their posts everywhere (nice).

About the weather, 20 degrees in January is not normal. You know, this year has been very weird...

LMCA1990
June 24th, 2007, 07:20 PM
Here are some statistics of Valencia's tourism boom:

1992 - 805.875
1995 - 897.080
1999 - 1.378.786
2002 - 923.334
2003 - 2.090.345
2004 - 2.171.384
2005 - 2.498.115
2006 - 3.142.789

hkskyline
September 23rd, 2007, 06:20 PM
Valencia's winning formula
With a beautiful old town, beaches, modern architecture and now the latest addition to the grand prix circuit, this stylish city has much to offer buyers
By Zoe Dare Hall
5 August 2007
The Sunday Telegraph

Valencia has acquired a taste for the international spotlight. With the America's Cup came a new pounds 350 million super yacht marina in place of a functional fishing port. Now Spain's third-largest city is turning its attention to the next glitzy event: the arrival of Formula One next year on a new harbourside circuit to rival Monaco.

The injection of several billion euros into the local economy from these two events is changing Valencia's fortunes and skyline. So much so that it is impossible not to compare the city today with Barcelona's transformation after the 1992 Olympics.

Valencia does not yet see the mass tourism that floods Barcelona all year, yet the city has similar style and elegance to the Catalan capital, in

an understated and more typically Spanish way.

It has the same prized combination of a beautiful old town and beaches. It also has some fantastic modern architecture: Santiago Calatrava's City of Arts and Sciences rises spectacularly from the dry river bed that dissects the city, much of it an exotically landscaped park that gives the impression of abundant greenery.

And like Barcelona, post Olympics, Valencia is only now starting to realise the value of its waterfront. The port will soon have new restaurants, hotels, cinemas and leisure facilities, new tram and metro stops are springing up, and the detached seafront district of Cabanyal will be linked to the centre by an extension of the main Avenida Blasco down to the sea.

"The vast majority of the market is still Spanish but we are starting to see foreign buyers, mainly professionals, who would have previously looked in Barcelona, finding something similar in Valencia for half the price,'' says Craig Holden from Rawlins and Holden estate agents (020 8133 9448, www.rawlinsholden.com ).

"The America's Cup and next year's grand prix have raised awareness of the city immensely. So has the success of Valencia's football team, which means more to your average man in the street,'' adds Craig.

"Families and retired people still typically want villas with gardens: you'll pay pounds 700,000 for something like this in a nearby suburb such as Rocafort, or pounds 250,000 if you go 15 minutes further inland.'' For buyers who want a city centre apartment, Rufaza or Carmen in the old town are the most popular areas where you can buy a small one-bedroom flat for pounds 130,000. Graham Hunt, who runs Valencia Property, a local agency, says that most British buyers want to buy properties in villages outside the city or apartments in the centre for weekend breaks.

"Four years ago, I couldn't shift a large city centre apartment, on the sixth floor with a lift, for pounds 68,000. It's now worth pounds 175,000 and I get twice as many requests for city centre apartments as I do for rural properties,'' says Graham.

"Prices have risen by 150 per cent in the past six years and they are still slowly rising, unlike Barcelona or Madrid,'' he adds. "It's Barcelona without the hordes of tourists or the Catalan chip on the shoulder and property is much cheaper,'' he says, quoting prices of pounds 1,400 to pounds 4,000 per square metre, depending on the area (00 34 902 747425, www.valencia-property.com ). One up-and-coming district is Rufaza, five minutes' walk from the old town's Plaza de la Virgin, and with an ethnically mixed population that is reflected in its Chinese restaurants and Ecuadorian cafes. Foreign buyers have spotted Rufaza's potential. Its elegant period buildings are well-preserved and apartments are spacious and modern. Valencia Property is selling smartly renovated apartments with two or three bedrooms from around pounds 160,000.

Long-term rental yields are low and the short-term holiday let market is in its infancy, but rental management companies such as Valenciashortstay.com are cropping up and renting out similar apartments for pounds 70 a night.

There is little housing near the port, but in Cabanyal there are two-bedroom fishermen's houses for sale at pounds 150,000, or you can buy a two-bedroom flat plus roof terrace, five minutes from the beach, for pounds 120,000 through Valencia Property. "The best restaurants in Valencia are here and the buildings have real character,'' says Hunt.

Mark Stucklin, who runs Spanish Property Insight, an online consultancy, places Valencia's prices at 40 per cent lower than Barcelona and 47 per cent lower than Madrid. "The regeneration process in the old town hasn't even begun yet, so there's a lot of potential,'' he says. "This is a dynamic city with its own economy and a property market that is fed mainly by people who want to live and work there, not a luxury second-homes market, which makes it more robust in a downturn.''

One of the reasons that the city remains relatively unexplored by second home buyers may be the "land grab'' scandal, which came to light in areas such as the Costa Brava. Here, unscrupulous builders, working alongside malleable councillors, developed land without permission. But so far cases of developers serving compulsory purchase orders on home owners have only applied to rural areas. "The stories have had an effect on buyers' confidence here,'' says Graham Hunt, "but the tourist office is doing a good job now of promoting the city. Low-cost flights are drawing people looking for a lively weekend bolt-hole, two hours from the UK and 10 minutes from Valencia airport.'' New metro and tram routes and a high-speed rail link to Madrid, opening in 2009, are also making Valencia's suburbs an appealing prospect for commuters.

Tim Marshall, 23, a builder from Bristol, has renovated and sold a five-bedroom house in Villamarchante, 30 minutes by tram to the city centre, for pounds 275,000. He has now bought a six-bedroom house in nearby Pedralba for pounds 165,000 through Valencia Property. "The city and surrounding villages have developed a lot in the four years I've been here,'' he says. "You can live just outside the city, in a large house with a garden, stables, and terraces overlooking orange groves and mountains for the price of a two-bedroom apartment in the centre.''

trainrover
September 23rd, 2007, 07:08 PM
Of the dozens of Euro and N-African places my mum and I tripped through, Valencia's the one that always made her heart shine the fondest for decades afterwards.........