@ Ibex, can you tell us more about Marilog? Is it as cold as Baguio? Beautiful photos!

:) Sorry @Tebs dont know how cold baguio is never been there but this place Marilog has a temperature of 15 ˚C at night (my experience). The area is usually covered with fog or maybe its the clouds covering the mountain because of its high elevation. It is a district of Davao City that shares boundary with bukidnon. Accessible through the Davao-Bukidnon highway. It is becoming a popular mountain hideaway evidently with growing number of Mountain resorts and vacation houses. :cheers:

i'd love to go there. and mag camp mag-isa. pwede ba yun? you know, just write something while chillin inside. pero siyempre, i don't wanna go there alone. hiwalay lang ng tent. sikip kaya nun. hehe...sometimes, i'm thinking of buying a tent then gamitin ko sa bahay. harhar...

Sagada can go as low as single digit of temp (°C). 15°C is already cold. nginig na ako niyan. nyay...sarap. baguio can go as low as 10 i think.

Ok then maybe baguio is colder... Accommodations differ according to resorts and type of experience you want. Its ok na group kayo para masaya and mag tent lang kayo individually. But if you like some body heat to keep you warm during the night so bring along somebody to share the tent with. :lol::lol::lol:

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/klutz1030/DSC076671.jpg

Image Resolution

Pixel count is by far the single most important determinant of image quality in digital photographs, particularly when it comes to printing, and resolution (e.g., 1600x1200 vs. 800x600) determines pixel count. The higher the resolution, the more pixels you'll capture and the better the image you'll have. A 1600x1200 image contains 4 times the pixels of an 800x600 version and will be commensurately sharper and less "pixelly" at any given print or display size. A 1600x1200 JPEG (http://dpfwiw.com/exposure.htm#jpeg) compressed at 4:1 will contain about as many bytes as its uncompressed 800x600 counter part, but the 1600x1200's quality will almost always be conspicuously superior to the 800x600's at such mild compression levels. In a very real sense, reduced resolution is the crudest possible form of "compression", with results to match.
That makes the resolution decision pretty easy: http://dpfwiw.com/diamond.gif (http://dpfwiw.com/index.htm#warranty) Record at your camera's maximum resolution whenever feasible.
If you still need convincing, read Higher resolution or lower compression JPEGs? (http://www.wfu.edu/%7Ematthews/misc/graphics/ResVsComp/JpgResVsComp.html) by dpFWIW contributor and physicist Rick Matthews (http://dpfwiw.com/index.htm#matthews). Rick's illustrations say it all.

To avoid the hassle of downsizing images after the fact, some users record images destined for Web use or e-mails to friends at lower resolutions. But what happens when you end up wanting to print an unexpectedly good one at 8x10? Cropping, downsampling and other pixel-wasting operations are best left for post-processing with a specific end-use in mind, and many editors now offer batch processing and macros to automate such tasks. (If you're unfamiliar with these manipulations and the issues they entail, be sure to read John Houghton's excellent image sizing primer (http://homepage.dtn.ntl.com/j.houghton/images.htm).)
Bottom line: At exposure time, grab all the pixels you can because...

http://dpfwiw.com/tumbling_arrow.gif (http://dpfwiw.com/index.htm#warranty) Inappropriate resolution choices can severely limit your post-processing and printing options down the line. Memory Allocation

Memory card capacity is by far the most important limiting factor here, but recording at full resolution is your single most effective allocation of that valuable resource. Since a 4-to-1 drop in resolution (e.g., from 1600x1200 to 800x600) is usually much more detrimental than a 4:1 JPEG compression (http://dpfwiw.com/exposure.htm#jpeg), judicious use of compression (http://dpfwiw.com/exposure.htm#compression) can more than offset the memory hit that comes with increased resolution—typically with far less impact on image quality and post-processing and printing options.

Shot-to-Shot Latency

Many factors affect the time lag between one shot and the next in a digital camera. File write time, the time required to store an image on a memory card once the camera's processed it, is usually the rate-limiting step in getting to the steady green light for the next shot. Write time increases roughly linearly with pixel count and therefore with resolution. In-camera processing times increase with higher resolutions as well. Even though compression (http://dpfwiw.com/exposure.htm#compression) itself adds to the processing time, judicious use of compression (http://dpfwiw.com/exposure.htm#compression) can more than offset the time increased resolution adds to your camera's shot-to-shot latency. In theory, in-camera sharpening (http://dpfwiw.com/exposure.htm#sharpening) also adds to latency, but I haven't noticed the difference if it does.

Exposure

Correctly lighting your picture means avoiding under-exposed and over-exposed shots. I would venture to say that most shots taken by amateurs are under-exposed because the camera's exposure meter is fooled by stray light. What I mean by that is that your main subject is less lighted than the surrounding. The camera's exposure meter usually takes a weighted average of the light and adjusts the exposure accordingly. If the surrounding is much more lighted than your main subject, then the camera is "fooled" into believing there is too much light and an under-exposed picture results. If the surrounding is much less lighted than your main subject, the camera adjusts by letting in more light and an over-exposed picture results.
Professional cameras have spot metering to allow you to tell the camera exactly which part of your picture you want properly exposed. Most amateur cameras have adequate weighted average metering to compensate for the surrounding lighting so the above scenarios are rarely a problem these days. There are, however, still some situations that can fool your camera's exposure meter. Be aware of those situations and you'll be able to get correctly exposed pictures in situations where previously you couldn't -- or you might choose to break a few of the rules for some dramatic results.

Light and Shadows

The right balance and interplay of light and shadows create beautifully exposed pictures. With the improvement in metering, it is not difficult these days to get properly exposed pictures, but understanding some simple concepts and following some simple rules never hurt.
Most of us start out in photography by learning that our main subject should be facing the sun. After all, it says so right on the film box. That's OK for point-and-shooters, but YOU want more than that.
Consider placing your subject in the shadows. Yes, in the shadows! Though, not completely in the shadows. All right, not the dark kind of shadows where mosquitoes roam. But if you can find a good spot (for example, in the shade cast by the leaves of a tree) where light and shadows intermingle so that it is not a solid block of shade, you've got yourself an excellent spot for a pleasant picture.
Make sure you are also standing in the same shaded area (or shade your camera with our hand to avoid direct sunlight on your light meter sensor) so your camera's exposure meter is not fooled.
You might also choose to use fill-in flash to light your subject in the shade for a pleasantly exposed picture from corner to corner.

Backlighting

It also says on the film box not to shoot with the sun facing you. Again, rightly so because this would fool your camera's exposure meter into believing there is way too much light, resulting in an underexposed shot. However, taking a portrait with the sun behind your subject can result in quite a dramatic picture, if done properly. If the sun, or a another light source (such as natural light streaming from a window) is right behind your subject's head, you can get a pleasing halo effect. Of course, your camera's meter is now fooled and will under-expose your shot unless you adjust for it. If your camera has a scene mode for backlighting, use it. If your camera has buttons to allow you to adjust backlighting, use them. In addition, pop up your flash and take a fill-in flash shot of your subject. Voila, the face is properly exposed (thanks to the fill-in flash) and the halo effect is also achieved.

Sunsets

Sunsets are always beautiful and there are a couple of pointers here. Take a number of pictures at different exposure (this technique is called "exposure bracketing") as the sun sets. Since you are shooting into the sun, your camera's exposure meter is guaranteed to be fooled unless you use the appropriate scene mode or manually adjust your exposure one to two f/stops down. You gotta be quick 'cause once the sun gets to setting, it sets real fast! By taking a number of shots until the sun is below the horizon, your chances of getting just this one perfect shot increase. Now, I know, you can also go into Photoshop and adjust it after the fact, yeah, yeah, yeah.... :o) Interestingly, some digital cameras now has auto-bracketing where the camera takes a number of shots at different over- and under-exposed settings. One of those shots will probably returns the "correctly" exposed shot that your eyes automatically compensated for.

Fireworks

Forget it, those pictures of fireworks of the Eifel Tower or the Statue of Liberty are almost always composites! See, your expertise in Photoshop really pays off now, eh! To capture the full effect of fireworks, your camera needs to have a "bulb" setting that allows you to open the shutter and keep it open as long as you keep your finger there. You also need a piece of black cardboard or material that you put in front of your lens when bright objects pass by (e.g. a car) and then remove whenever fireworks explode. All the while, you keep the shutter open in the bulb setting. When you've got enough firework explosions, stop. Then, go into Photoshop and make a composite of all those fireworks explosions with your favorite landmark. Voila!

The Fair

Usually there are bright lights at the fair, and the surreal effect adds to the charm of a fair. Use fill-in flash for portraits. Use long shutter speeds (e.g. 1/30 sec.) to blur the spinning and twirling lights attached to the rides and carousels.

Scene Modes

Many digital cameras do not allow any exposure adjustment and so you are at the mercy of your camera. Others provide convenient scene modes for taking various situations, such as portrait, landscape, sports, night shots, etc. They essentially automate what we have talked about here. More higher-end models allow you to select your own shutter speed and aperture (f/stop) by providing shutter priority and aperture priority modes. We find that, if you are basically a point-and-shoot type of photographer, you will find the higher-end models confusing -- at first. Though we do not recommend any particular model of camera, we do recommend that you seriously consider those cameras that provide scene modes.
Here is a run down of the most common scene modes and what they mean technically. These are my own guesses and by no means the gospel on the subject matter. They also do not cover ALL that is going on when you select a certain scene mode on your digital camera, only the MAIN requirements, and only those I personally believe are the ideal requirements. Less than ideal specifications will no doubt still give great results in many cases.

Sports or Action --

1) the camera chooses the fastest shutter speed it has (say, 1/1,000 sec.) and
2) then adjusts the aperture, starting from the largest aperture it has (say, F2.8) and going smaller until the proper exposure is obtained.
3) If, at the largest aperture, there is not enough light for a proper exposure, the camera selects to use the flash, and then cycles through step 2 again to obtain a correct exposure.
4) If there is still not enough light, the camera might attempt to switch to a higher ISO (e.g. ISO 400), and cycle through step 2 again.
5) Failing all that, the camera will select a slower shutter speed (not slower than 1/125 sec.) and retry steps 2 through 4.
6) Finally, if there is still not enough light for a proper exposure, the camera will progressively reduce the shutter speed until it has a shutter speed/aperture combination for correct exposure. These steps are just my guesses but seem to be what I would do manually. Different cameras may do steps 3 through 6 in different order. For example, a camera might select to progressively reduce the shutter speed (step 6) before opting to use the flash (step 3).
7) The camera might also select the correct White Balance if the shots are being taken indoors under artificial lighting (e.g. fluorescent or tungsten).

So the requirements for Sports or Action shots are:

1) Fast shutter speed (1/1,000 sec. and above)
2) Large aperture (F1.8 and larger)
3) ISO of 400 and above
4) White Balance for Fluorescent and Tungsten
5) Small shutter lag (you'll never catch the action if the shutter clicks 2 sec. after you press the shutter release)

Night --

1) the camera selects the largest aperture it has (say, F2.8).
2) It then adjusts the shutter speed starting from the slowest (say 4 sec.) and moving up until correct exposure is obtained.
3) If there is not enough light, it might opt to use flash or increase the ISO sensitivity.

So, the requirements for Night shots are:

1) Large aperture (F1.8 and larger)
2) Slow shutter speeds (1 sec. and lower, plus Bulb)
3) ISO of 400 and above
4) White Balance for Tungsten

Landscape --

1) the camera selects the smallest aperture it has (say, F8) for maximum depth of field (http://www.photoxels.com/glossary.html#DOF).
2) It then adjusts the shutter speed until correct exposure is obtained.

So, the requirements for Landscape shots are:
1) A small aperture (F8 and smaller)

Portrait --

1) the camera selects the largest aperture it has (say, F2.8) for minimum depth of field.
2) It then adjusts the shutter speed until correct exposure is obtained.
3) It might opt to use fill-in flash for correctly exposing the face.
4) It might zoom in to around 105mm to crop out extraneous surroundings.

So, the requirements for Portrait shots are:

1) A large aperture (F8 and smaller)
2) Fill-in flash
3) Zoom up to 105 mm

Museum --

1) the camera shuts down flash.
2) It selects a shutter speed/aperture combination (and perhaps also the ISO sensitivity) for correct exposure.
3) It adjusts the White Balance for artificial light.

So, the requirements for Museum shots are:

1) Ability to shut off flash
2) Large aperture
3) White Balance for artificial light

Fireworks

A good fireworks picture can be one of the most spectacular picture you take, and the opportunity comes only once or twice a year. How can you take good fireworks pictures with your digital camera? It's not too difficult and you don't need an expensive digital camera to do so -- but there are a few pointers to keep in mind.

http://www.photoxels.com/images/Tutorial/fireworks-blue.jpg
Fujifilm FinePix F10
Focal Length = 20.1mm, Shooting Mode = Night Scene (Standard)
Shutter Speed = 3 sec., Aperture = F4.7, ISO = 80
Sharpened in Photoshop Elements


Shutter Speed

First, your camera must be able to keep the shutter open for a few seconds of exposure since you want to capture both the initial explosion as well as the luminous trails created by the falling burning particles.

If your camera has a Bulb function, then you are in luck. Switch to Manual, set the shutter to Bulb, and the shutter will remain open as long as you press the shutter release button down, and close when you release it. Keep the shutter open and record a burst from the moment it explodes to the time when it starts to fade. If you are taking only one burst, then you're done. If you want to take multiple bursts on the same frame, just put the lens cap (or simply a thick cardboard or even your hand) on instead of releasing the shutter release button. Take the cap off for the next burst and continue this cap on/off process until you are satisfied.

Depending on how dark the conditions are, you might need to experiment on how long to leave the shutter open. Since you would want to include foreground buildings to situate the fireworks, leaving the shutter open for too long may cause these buildings to be overexposed.

http://www.photoxels.com/images/Tutorial/fireworks-trails.jpg
Fujifilm FinePix F10
Focal Length = 20.1mm, Shooting Mode = Night Scene (Standard)
Shutter Speed = 3 sec., Aperture = F4.7, ISO = 80
Sharpened in Photoshop Elements


Aperture

You might want to experiment with the aperture to use. A small aperture such as F8 will make the burst trails thin and dark, whereas a larger aperture such as F2.8 will make them thicker and lighter. If your digital camera does not have very slow shutter speeds, or shoots only in Program AE mode, it is a bit more challenging. The aperture used would most probably be F2.8 resulting in thick and light lines, which are less appealing. If you can, zoom in for this usually also closes down the aperture.

http://www.photoxels.com/images/Tutorial/fireworks-multiple.jpg
Fujifilm FinePix F10
Focal Length = 20.1mm, Shooting Mode = Night Scene (Standard)
Shutter Speed = 3 sec., Aperture = F4.7, ISO = 80
Sharpened in Photoshop Elements


Exposure Mode

If you do not have Bulb setting, then switch to Manual, or Shutter-Speed, or Aperture-Priority mode. Most Point-and-Shoot digital cameras will not have any of those modes, but will usually have Night Scene mode, or Slow Shutter scene mode. Choose whatever mode that will give you a shutter speed of about 3 sec. and more.

In the image examples in this tutorial, I set the camera (Fujifilm FinePix F10) to Night Scene mode which gave me a shutter speed of 3 sec. I zoomed in a bit and that restricted the aperture to F4.7. I also set the ISO to 80 (the lowest on that particular camera) to prevent overexposure when using long shutter speeds.

The camera was set on a tripod with the center pole extended above the balcony railings of the room I was staying in at the Disney Contemporary Resort. The room was on the 7th floor of the tower and faced the Magic Kingdom [you gotta ask for it or your room will face the lake or garden]. Because of the angle, I could not include the Cinderella Castle in the shots, so included the Space Mountain instead.

http://www.photoxels.com/images/Tutorial/fireworks-combined.jpg
Fujifilm FinePix F10
Focal Length = 20.1mm, Shooting Mode = Night Scene (Standard)
Shutter Speed = 3 sec., Aperture = F4.7, ISO = 80
Fireworks from 3 different shots sharpened and combined in Photoshop Elements


Tips

- Because you'll be using very slow shutter speeds, you'll find that camera shake is a major problem. Handholding your camera will almost guarantee trails that look shaky. So, use a tripod. Don't forget that with most tripods you can also extend the middle pole to allow your camera to reach over a balcony railing or other obstacle.

- Likewise, if your camera allows it, use a release cable or remote controller to reduce camera shake. It's tricky to use a self-timer and capture the bursts just when you want to.

- If your camera has a long zoom, then you can fill in the whole area with a single burst. If your camera does not zoom in much, then consider taking two or more bursts on the same frame (if your camera allows multiple exposure on the same frame).

- Don't trip the shutter release as soon as the fireworks explode because the extreme brightness of the initial explosion will generally result in overexposure. Instead wait for the trails to bloom fully and then open the shutter to catch the bloom and the falling trails.

- You may also want to wait for the last explosions in a series, for too many explosions may also result in overexposure.

- No double exposure function or Bulb on your digital camera? Don't worry, the magic of digital photography allows you to sandwich a number of bursts afterwards in an image editing software, such as Photoshop. You can combine bursts as creatively as you desire, even making some appear smaller or larger to achieve a balanced and pleasing composition.

- As you can see, a camera that allows you to use long shutter speeds, adjust aperture, has a wide-angle lens (especially if you are going to be relatively close to the launching point) and has a remote controller is ideal. But if your camera does not have all those features, as mine did not, don't let that stop you -- you can still take spectacular fireworks shots with a little experimentation!

nice tips Ibex. those are really helpful. i only learned to shoot fireworks January this year! hehehe...after so many failed attempts.

oh by the way thanks for the white balance thing on sports photography. i didn't know that. i think auto setting on white balance is not always effective.

Ok then maybe baguio is colder... Accommodations differ according to resorts and type of experience you want. Its ok na group kayo para masaya and mag tent lang kayo individually. But if you like some body heat to keep you warm during the night so bring along somebody to share the tent with. :lol::lol::lol:

body heat eh?
that's a good idea. but you just gave me a huge problem. hehe...never mind.

OT:



Sorry @soulmaker27 ngayon ko lang masasgot tanong mo ngayon lang kasi ako muli napasyal dito :)

it's not a DSLR camera. 15X optical Zoom + 15 Digital Zoom lang ang kaya ng camera ko.

here's Cam the settings sa shot:

Manual setting
F-No = F/5.6
Exposure Time = 1/60secs
ISO speed = ISO80

Thanks! :D

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/klutz1030/DSC06414.jpg
[CENTER]7am December 1, 2007




Ang cool naman nito. Ang sarap siguro ng feeling diyan. :D

:):):) To all of us Photography amateurs and enthusiasts, Merry Christmas...!!!

:cheers:Luckily with our digital cameras we don't have to expose tons of negatives to learn the basics... Keep posting your shots so that together we'll learn from our experiences...

:cheers: Hope the pros are keeping an eye on this thread and share their expertise on the matter...^^

ISO (Sensitivity)

ISO is the number indicating a digital camera sensors sensitivity to light. The higher the sensitivity, the less light is needed to make an exposure.
Digital cameras automatically select the ISO but most have a setting to change it manually. Auto ISO generally works best for bright scenes.

Shooting at a lower ISO number requires more light than shooting at a higher number. Lower numbers result in images with the least visible noise, which is desirable.
The higher the number, the more noise. The amount and degree of noise varies from camera to camera.

Digital single reflex cameras (dSLR), because they have larger sensors, are best for producing noise-free images. However, some consumer digital cameras now have improved sensors that produce acceptable images at higher ISO.

ISO settings AUTO ISO (http://www.digicamhelp.com/camera-features/camera-modes/auto-iso.php) - digital camera automatically sets the ISO speed according the the brightness of the scene, increasing or decreasing the sensitivity. User has no control over which ISO number is used.

ISO 50 - 80 - for taking photos in bright light; excellent for close-ups, landscape, and portraits. Produces fine detail and image quality.

ISO 100 - for extra sensitivity with little, if any, reduced image quality.

ISO 200 - cloudy and overcast days. Acceptable image quality, with some visible noise.

ISO 400 and above - suitable for indoor photography whether or not a flash is used. Useful for "stop-action" and sports photographs. Most compact digital cameras produce high to very high image noise.
Changing ISO also changes the aperture and shutter speed.

Shooting modes

http://www.digicamhelp.com/images/CameraFeatures/mode-dial.jpg

All digital cameras have fully automatic modes to take photos by simply pointing and shooting. Intermediate and advanced cameras that have semi-automatic and manual modes allow for more creative and technical control.

Automatic modes

Auto/Simple - fully automatic, point-and-shoot mode, which lets beginners easily take photos. The camera selects all settings.

Program AE - camera automatically sets the shutter speed and aperture based on the brightness of the scene. User can adjust some settings such as exposure compensation, white balance, ISO, focusing and metering modes.

Semi-automatic modes

Shutter priority (Tv) - User selects shutter speed (http://www.digicamhelp.com/camera-features/advanced-settings/shutter-speed.php) and the camera automatically selects the aperture. Selecting a faster shutter speed allows you to "freeze" the action of a moving subject. Slower shutter speeds capture movement and also let you shoot without a flash in dim lit scenes.

Aperture priority (Av) - User selects aperture (http://www.digicamhelp.com/camera-features/advanced-settings/aperture.php) and the camera automatically selects shutter speed. Opening up the aperture (smaller f-stop number) decreases depth of field. Closing down the aperture (higher f-stop number) increases depth of field.

Manual mode

User manually selects the shutter speed and aperture. An Exposure Display visible on the LCD or electronic viewfinder shows the amount a photo will be over- or underexposed. Long exposures are taken in manual mode.

right. calling all pros out there. you are free to give harsh comments if any.
thank you for those digital photo 101 lesson Ibex. let me check my photos and share some of them here...

Photographic Exposure

1. Four Factors Governing Exposure

Obtaining good exposure for a photograph is achieved by allowing an appropriate amount of light to enter the camera and expose the film -- too much light and the photograph will be overexposed; too little, underexposed. The correct amount of light depends on four factors:
Amount of light incident on the subject
Amount of light reflected from subject into camera lens
Amount of light passing through the lens onto the film
Sensitivity of the film being exposedFactor 1 is controlled by the intensity of the light source and whether anything is blocking the light from falling on the subject being photographed. For natural light photography the light source is typically the sun and the photographer is therefore concerned with the intensity of the sun and what may be blocking its light. The intensity of the sun varies with its position in the sky (above or below the horizon) and its light can be blocked from striking the subject by clouds, trees, buildings, etc (ie. the subject is in shadow). The subject itself can even block its own illumination and therefore the position of the sun with respect to the subject may be important -- if the subject is side-lit or back-lit, some of the subject may be in shadow.

Factor 2 is controlled by the reflectivity of the subject. Simply put, if the subject is bright, such as a snow-covered volcano [off-site] (http://volcanoes.usgs.gov/Products/Pglossary/volcano.html), it will reflect more light toward the camera than a dark subject, such as pahoehoe lava rock [off-site] (http://volcanoes.usgs.gov/Products/Pglossary/pahoehoe.html).

Factor 3 is controlled by the camera settings for shutter speed and aperture. A slower shutter speed and/or a larger aperture allows more light to strike the film.

Factor 4 is controlled by the speed of film used. "Fast" films respond quickly to light while "slow" films respond slowly. For the same photographic scene, a slow film needs more of the scene's light to make a correct exposure than a fast film. Film speed is given by the ISO (or "ASA") film speed number.
Taking all four factors together makes for a very complex situation. Let's simplify. First, note that the photographer only has direct control over factors 3 and 4: the camera settings -- shutter speed and aperture -- and the film speed. Let's assume a film speed of 100 (good grain yet relatively fast). This leaves shutter speed and aperture under direct control. Thus, to make a correct exposure, shutter speed and aperture must be set to "balance out" the two factors over which the photographer has no direct control, factors 1 and 2. That is, for a given film speed, the shutter speed and aperture must be set based on the amount of light incident on the subject and reflected from the subject. In other words, shutter speed and aperture must be set based on the sun intensity, blockage of sunlight, and brightness of the subject for the scene being photographed. How can we measure the factors that are not under the photographer's control in order to select the appropriate shutter speed and aperture?


2. Exposure With an Automatic Camera

To assess the light condition of a scene and choose appropriate camera settings, a photographer could simply rely on the light meter and automatic settings of the modern camera. The camera's light meter measures the light reflected from the subject and chooses camera settings for a "correct" exposure. For example, it's midday with a weak sun in a hazy sky (factor 1) and a snow-covered volcano (factor 2) is being photographed. The light meter first measures the amount of light reflected from the subject into the lens, which depends on both factor 1 and 2. Based on this measurement, it then selects a shutter speed and aperture (factor 3) suitable for the film being used (factor 4) and takes the shot. All factors would seem to be accounted for in order to make a good photograph.

But there's a problem. How can the camera possibly "know" that the subject is a volcano covered with bright white snow? It can't. It knows that a high amount of light is entering the camera but it doesn't know whether that light intensity is due to a high light source (factor 1) or a very reflective subject (factor 2). If it doesn't know the reflectivity of the subject, how can it choose the camera settings for a correct exposure? It can't. If it can't choose the correct exposure, how can it take the photo? To choose camera settings the camera has to make the assumption that the subject is not too bright and not too dark -- that the subject reflects 18% of the light falling on it (a medium brightness). Using this assumption it sets the camera's shutter speed and aperture. But the resulting photograph will show a volcano covered with grey snow -- not the correct exposure. The camera does not know that the volcano is covered in white snow.

What if the camera is then pointed at the dark pahoehoe lava flow that recently erupted from the volcano? Again the camera is not aware that it has been moved to a new subject. It simply registers less light and, to compensate, will use a longer shutter speed or larger aperture to allow more light to reach the film. It would do the same if, while still focused on the bright volcano, heavy clouds moved in front of the sun. But the sun intensity has not changed, only the subject reflectivity has changed. In essence, there are too many variables encompassed by factors 1 and 2 for the camera to decide on its settings. To make the settings, it has to reduce the variables by again assuming that the subject is of medium reflectivity. The resulting photograph shows grey, not black, lava.

Obviously, the only time the camera's assumption is correct is when the subject in fact has a medium brightness. If the subject is medium bright (say, the green grass that was spared from the hot lava -- about 18% reflective) and the camera selects a shutter speed and aperture on the assumption that the subject is medium bright, the resulting photograph will have correct exposure. This, then, is the clue to obtaining a correct exposure for subjects that are not medium bright. That is, under a given lighting condition, meter off a subject of medium brightness to select shutter speed and aperture and then use these same settings to photograph subjects of different reflectivity. The following example will illustrate this.


3. An Example

For example, say the camera automatically selects 1/125th of a second at aperture f/22 for the snow-covered volcano (still assuming lighting conditions of a hazy sky and film speed ISO 100). We now know this is wrong and will result in grey snow. To make the snow white, we need more light to expose the film which can be achieved by using a larger aperture1 -- possibly f/16, f/11, or f/8. But which one? Metering off the medium-bright green grass2 we find that the camera selects 1/125th of a second at aperture f/11. Thus, f/11 is the correct aperture for the snow-covered volcano as well. By shooting the volcano at 1/125th and f/11 we are telling the camera what it cannot by itself know -- that the subject is brighter than medium grey and needs more light for a correct exposure.

What about the dark lava? The camera might select 1/125th of a second at aperture f/5.6. We know this will result in grey lava and, to make the lava dark, we need less light to expose the film by using a smaller aperture1. Again metering off the grass2 we get an exposure of 1/125th at f/11. If we shoot the lava at f/11, not f/5.6, less light will expose the film and the lava will be dark -- a correct exposure.

1) This example assumes the camera will automatically adjust its aperture but it may adjust its shutter speed instead. The concept is the same in either case.
2) In both cases, proper exposure will only be obtained if the green grass is illuminated under the same incident light as the volcano and lava.


4. Automatic Exposure -- The Real Story

We've just found that the correct exposure for all the subjects in this example -- the snow-covered volcano, the black pahoehoe lava, as well as the green grass -- is 1/125th of a second at aperture f/11. So, does the reflectivity of the subject, factor 2, really matter? Essentially, the reflectivity of the subject is important in the sense that we want to realistically capture the brightness or darkness of the subject in the final photo. Factor 2 definitely affects the amount of light entering the camera lens and therefore affects exposure. But the key is we do not want to negate this effect; we want the reflectivity of the subject to directly influence the exposure in order for the subject to look realistic in the photo. The problem is that the camera's automatic exposure system does negate this effect with its assumption that all subjects are of medium reflectivity, resulting in incorrect exposures for all but medium brightness subjects.
Why are camera controls for shutter speed and aperture even needed? If we don't want to negate the exposure effect of factor 2, why not just shoot everything all the time at 1/125th and f/11? We still need to control the shutter and aperture because we still have not addressed factor 1, the overall light intensity that is illuminating the subject.


5. Incident Light -- The Controlling Factor

To summarize so far, of the four factors affecting exposure, the photographer only has control over the shutter speed and aperture (factor 3), and film speed (factor 4). Assuming a given film speed, the photographer must choose a shutter speed and aperture based on the amount of light incident on the subject (factor 1) and the reflectivity of the subject (factor 2). But as seen above, because we want to realistically portray the brightness or darkness of the subject, the reflectivity of the subject should not really affect the choice of shutter speed and aperture. Thus, the amount of light incident on the subject remains as the primary factor controlling exposure. For correct exposure we must assess this factor and select an appropriate shutter speed and aperture for the photograph.
How do we independently assess factor 1, the amount of incident light? Three approaches are available:
Use the camera's light meter
Use an incident light light meter
Use your experienceApproach number one has already been discussed. The problem here is that the camera's meter measures the light intensity entering the lens, which depends on both the amount of reflected light from the subject as well as incident light falling on the subject. But the meter can't discern how much light comes from each factor and therefore the camera cannot independently measure the incident light alone. By assuming that the subject is always medium bright, the meter essentially lumps factors 1 and 2 together in order to guess at a proper exposure. Still, this approach can be used, but only if the photographer compensates for the camera's assumption that the light reflected from the subject is medium bright.

Approach number two is sometimes a viable solution. An incident light meter is designed to measure just that -- the light falling on the subject. Its proper use, however, logically requires that the meter be held in the same light as the light in which the subject is illuminated. This is not always possible. The subject may be far away from and under different lighting conditions than the photographer's position. How to measure the incident light on that distant snow-covered volcano while standing in a shady canyon?

Approach number three: gain and use your own experience. As with most everything in life, the best results are the fruit of much trial and error, perspiration, contemplation, and determination. Photography is no exception (sophisticated, multi-segment metering systems notwithstanding). Note that this approach does not preclude using the camera's exposure system, an incident light meter, or anything else. It just means that experience and understanding must accompany their use for the best results. Indeed, given all the other complicating factors -- different film types, limited tonal latitude of film, various metering systems, depth of field and action-stopping considerations, reciprocity failure, etc. -- no other viable approach to proper exposure really exists.

unfortunately, shutterfly does not show all details of the original photo. i.e., shutter spead, aperture, exposure, etc...

Morning With a View
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I've learned that it's ok to put as much sky as possible in your frame as long as you got cloud formations to put in there. otherwise, it might not be worth putting too much of the sky.

right. calling all pros out there. you are free to give harsh comments if any.
thank you for those digital photo 101 lesson Ibex. let me check my photos and share some of them here...

^^ @Tebs remember this;

...if you think you haven't taken the perfect picture don't fret, there's always plenty of room for improvement :cheers:

Keep on posting...:):):)

yeah, i agree dude. there's always room for improvement. hehe...it helps being reminded from time to time. i usually don't appreciate my photos unless somebody else will. conversely, i can't appreciate myself unless somebody else says "hey, you did a great job"...or "thanks for the nice talk, i really appreciate that." harhar...:D

Yeah and we cant get any criticism if we don't post it...:):):)

Basta ako in my experience i keep pointing and shooting at the sight my senses tells me it's worth taking. ^^^^

Sometimes a little clipping can make the picture look better and eliminate unnecessary objects in the scene.:):):)

Ok, sharing my recent photos. Taken this weekend during the wedding of a workmate sa Sonya's (sp?) garden, Tagaytay.


Very common ang flower na to sa Tagaytay. So habang nagugutom na at nagaantay ng pagkain, ito napagdiskitahan natin.
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Unang na serve ay salads. I dunno what leaf is this, but this is included sa salad na naka serve. The actual size of the leaf is around 2 square inch.
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Ganda ng venue. After lunch, pasyal muna sa paligid.
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Di ko na alam ano mga halaman tong mga to.
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I can't seem to create a good composition out of this very beautiful flower. Maybe you guys can give me idea how can I create a good perspective out of this one. :)
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Hmmm...Look at that...
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Eto pa...Nothing much. Naki hitch na lang ako sa kotse sa kaliwa.
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Di naman siguro magagalit ang ikinasal...maganda naman siya eh...
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magaganda yung mga photo nyo, keep on doing that, youre doing a great job

thanks Tigs. what about sharing your photos too? or sa camwhoring thread na lang? i just realized, i look terrible on above photos. i removed them. harhar...

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/blog/wp-content/beach-umbrella-1.jpg




Here are 10 tips for when you head to the beach with your digital camera


1. Look for focal points

A friend of mine once told me that they don’t bother taking their camera to the beach because all beach shots look the same. i thought that that was a pretty sad thing to say because when I go to the beach I see it as a place brimming with photographic opportunities if you have the ability to look beyond the cliche shots. For example while many people take shots looking out to sea I find it interesting to go to the water’s edge and then turn completely around and see what’s in your frame from that angle. One common problem with landscape beach photographs is that while they might capture a beautiful scene they actually have no point of interest and can as a result be rather empty and boring. When taking a shot look for a point of interest or focal point that will give those looking at your photo a place for their eye to rest. Perhaps it’s a pattern in the sand, a set of footprints, the crashing of waves over a rock, a life saver’s tower etc. Also look for the little things that tell the story of going to the beach like shoes at the waters edge, sand castles, sunglasses, sunscreen lotion etc. Sometimes these can make wonderful little feature shots to break up your vacation album.
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/blog/wp-content/beach-play.jpg (http://flickr.com/photos/awfulsara/4324029/)
Image by Sara Heinrichs (http://flickr.com/photos/awfulsara/4324029/)

2. Timing is important

The start and end of days can present the best opportunities for shooting at the beach. For starters there will be less people there at that time of day but also you’ll find that with the sun shining on an angle that you often get more interesting effects of shadows and colors - particularly in the evening when the light becomes quite warm and golden.

3. Watch the Horizon

One of the most common problems in beach photography where there are wide open spaces with a long and often unbroken horizon is sloping horizons. Work hard at keeping your horizon square to the framing of your shot (more on this here (http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/getting-horizons-horizontal/)). Also consider placing your horizon off centre as centered horizons can leave a photo looking chopped in half (more on this in our post on the Rule of Thirds (http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/rule-of-thirds/)).

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/blog/wp-content/beach-waves.jpg (http://flickr.com/photos/cruzan/38027229/)
Image by astrocruzan (http://flickr.com/photos/cruzan/38027229/)


4. Head to the Beach When Others Avoid it

Another timing issue is that the beach can really come to life on those days that everyone avoids it because of inclement weather. Stormy seas, threatening and dramatic clouds and wind slowing lifesaver flags and trees over call all make for atmospheric shots.


5. Exposure Bracketing

One of the challenges of shooting in the middle of summer on a beach is that it can be incredibly bright and your camera could want to under expose your shots if you’re shooting in Auto mode. If your camera has a manual mode it can be well worth playing with it at the beach and experimenting with different levels of exposure. I find that I get the best results when I look at what the camera wants to expose the shot at and then over expose it by a stop or two. Of course this depends greatly from situation to situation - brightly lit landscapes are generally very tricky - especially if you have shady areas as well as bright ones. Sometimes it’s a matter of working out which area you want to be well exposed and focussing on that area as to get everything right is often impossible.

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/blog/wp-content/beach.jpg (http://flickr.com/photos/phitar/139589289/)
Image by phitar (http://flickr.com/photos/phitar/139589289/)

6. Spot Metering

If your camera has spot metering you can overcome some of the above exposure problems. Spot metering is a feature that some cameras have whereby you tell the camera which part of the image you want to be well exposed and it will get that bit right. This is particularly useful in bright light when you want to get a shady area exposed well. It will optimize the shady area (and the other areas will be over exposed - but at least your main subject will be ok). This can be effective especially when photographing people as it allows you to face them away from the sun and to meter on their shadowy face and therefore avoid squinting (a common problem with photographing people at the beach).

7. Fill Flash

If you’re photographing people at the beach as a portrait and it’s bright you’ll find that they will almost always have shadows on their face (often cast by hats, glasses, noses etc). Switch on your flash and force it to fire when shooting in these situations and you’ll find the shadows eliminated and your actual subject is well exposed. This is particularly important when shooting into the sun when without a flash you could end up with your subject being at some stage of becoming a silhouette). If your camera gives you some level of control over how strong a flash to fire you might want to experiment with this also as firing a full strength can leave your subjects looking washed out and artificial. If your subjects do look overexposed and you cant decrease the flash strength try moving back a little from your subject and using your zoom to get a tighter framing as this will decrease the impact of the flash. As usual - experimenting is the key.

8. UV Filters

UV filters are useful for DSLR owners a couple of reasons in beach photography. Firstly they act as a protection for your lens (see below) but also they do filter out ultraviolet light in a certain range. This can cut back on atmospheric haze (often a blueish haze/tinge). The visual impact that they have is not great but they are the first thing I buy when I get a new lens for my DSLR.

9. Polarizing Filters

One of the most useful DSLR lens accessories that you can add to a digital camera is a polarizing filter. Without getting too technical, a polarizer filters out some light that is polarized. This means that it reduces reflections and boosts contrasts. The most noticeable places that this has impact is with blue skies (potentially it can make them incredibly rich and almost dark blue) and in water/ocean in which it can give a variety of effects. The way many people explain the results of a polarizer is the difference that polarizing sunglasses can make when you put them on (in fact I know quite a few photographers who shoot through their sunglasses if they don’t have a polarizer with them. Get a polarizing filter and experiment with it and you’ll quite literally be amazed by the results.

10. Black and White

One technique that I’ve been using a lot lately in beach photography (and other genres also) is to do a little post photo production and see what impact stripping a photo of color has upon it. There’s something about a black and white shot at the beach that completely changes the mood and feel of a shot. It’s also a great way to bring to life beach shots taken on dull or overcast days which can often leave a beach scene looking a little colorless.

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/blog/wp-content/black-and-white-beach.jpg (http://flickr.com/photos/awfulsara/4314082/)
Image by Sara Heinrichs (http://flickr.com/photos/awfulsara/4314082/)

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Proper handling of the camera itself can reduce the number of retakes, helping to make your day easier by decreasing the number of times you need to repeat the dreaded "hold on, I need to take one more". Taking better quality pictures means taking fewer pictures overall since you’re taking fewer bad shots due to bad mechanics.

holding the camera

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Hold the camera solidly in your hand to prevent the camera from shuddering or shifting too much when pressing on the shutter button, and watch your spare fingers so that they don’t interfere with the lens. One trick is to wrap the camera strap around your fingers so that you will be more conscious of where they are. Another tip, especially with smaller cameras, is to hold your eye up to the optical viewfinder to capture the image, rather than the electronic viewfinder – this will not only help you see exactly what your capturing, but will also help to stabilize the shot between your hands and your face for less 'camera shake'.

focusing

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As digital cameras have a tendency to take slightly longer to focus than film camera, an important tip is to half-depress the shutter button until the camera has had time to lock the focus, and then completely press the button to take the actual shot - this can often make the difference between blurry, out-of-focus shots, and clear pictures. Also, with normal picture-taking, shutter speeds are fast enough that a small amount of shake won’t affect the resulting image much, however, there are times when you’d want to use a tripod to compensate: when taking pictures in low light, where the shutter speed will slow down enough to potentially make drag lines, and when using a long zoom, where distant objects are susceptible to blur. In each case, the tripod will settle the image and let you forget about shaking the image and focus on capturing what’s in your mind’s eye.

preview

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One of the main advantages of a digital camera is being able to preview the pictures after you’ve taken them. If you are trying to capture a specific scene, you can review the shot and see if it looks the way you wanted – if it doesn’t, you can delete the shot and retake it to get it right. Why keep a picture if it’s blurry, or someone’s eyes are closed, or a person is obstructing part of the view?

archiving

Taking that one step further, there is no worse feeling than seeing the perfect kiss, smile or sunset, reaching for your camera and clicking the button, only to realize that your storage is full and you’ve missed your chance. It’s happened to everyone, but still, you can prevent it by clearing off your old pictures monthly (or more frequently if you are a shutterbug). Bring a second memory card/stick with you when you go on a trip, even if your primary card/stick is large, just in case you need the extra space. There are also portable storage products available that allow you to offload and archive your photos to keep your main storage free, ranging from iPod adapters to portable drives/CD burners.

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Many people comment on certain photographers having an eye for taking good pictures. In part, that is skill and experience you are seeing. Another part is the expression of art with an understanding of some basic rules. Of course, like any artist, you can take some great shots that 'break' all the rules, however, it is safe to say that taking into consideration the following six items will help improve the quality of your pictures and create more interesting images.

keep it simple

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Think to yourself, "What am I taking a picture of?" and keep that in mind. Identifying the subject of interest and avoiding distracting backgrounds will help to keep the picture clear. Zoom in to clear out irrelevant parts of the scene and capture just what you're looking for, avoiding objects like signs, buildings or people that take the viewer's eye away from the point of focus. An example of this is taking a picture of crowd of protestors - a busy image where the eye has trouble figuring out what should take its focus. Zooming in on one protestor in particular, though, makes it very clear what should command the viewer's attention.

rule of thirds

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Picture a tic tac toe board: two horizontal lines intersected by two vertical lines. This creates an easy formula - line up the horizon of the shot with either of the two horizontal lines, and line up the subject (either a person, building or the focus of your picture) with either of the vertical lines, ideally where the lines intersect. When viewing a scene, try to overlay this map into the viewfinder - with only a little adjustment, you can quickly create more visually interesting images by simply adjusting (or cropping after the fact) what you see to line up with these invisible markers. When dealing with a moving subject or a person, it's often preferable to have them looking or moving 'into' the picture from one of the two sides.

lines and shapes

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We all remember our geometry classes, dominated by circles, triangles, and snake-like curves. Applying these simple shapes to your subject matter can help to simplify complex scenes and add visual interest. Consider trying to capture an image of a person walking down a long, straight street. Instead of shooting straight down the line, move yourself five or ten feet to the side and shoot that road at an angle - having that line crossing through the intersecting lines of the imaginary tic tac toe board from the rule of thirds can create the illusion of movement as they lead the eye through the picture. S-curves are even more dynamic, while repetitive lines can also create movement of the eye through the picture, like repeating waves of sand on a beach or parallel row houses along the side of a road.

vantage point

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Most images taken by amateur photographers are taken at eye level - this means most of these pictures are taken from the narrow range of 5 to 6 feet in height. Taking a picture from a lower vantage point (for example crouching or even lying on the ground) can add grandeur and significance to the subject, while getting more height (from climbing up a tree, fence or steps) will reduce the significance of the subject in your scene. Examples of using this could be taking a picture of your children playing looking from the ground, or capturing a busy marketplace scene where no one person would stand out over another.

balance

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When considering what you're capturing, look through the lens and pick out the dominant subjects, like people, buildings, trees or mountains and arrange them so that they compliment each other. This can mean either symmetrical balancing, where objects of equal size are positioned on either side of the picture's center, like a manicured garden with bushes on either side, or asymmetrical balancing, where objects of different sizes are used on either side of the picture's center, like a scene of a person standing between a house and a tree. Asymmetrical pictures are often more interesting and visually stimulating as the viewer's eye moves from object to object.

framing

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Framing, as it sounds, is a way of drawing attention to the subject in the picture by blocking off or framing parts of the scene using natural or artificial barriers, and however accomplished can add prominence to the subject, and will help add a sense of depth to the photo. Using this concept literally, you can try taking an outdoor scene from the inside through an open window to create interest, or capture a newly married couple kissing in a doorway or hallway to draw the eye to them. Other more natural ways of framing a shot are using trees (shooting through gaps in the branches and leaves), or viewing a beach from between craggy rocks.

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The most important thing to understand about photography, whether it’s digital or film, is that it’s all about capturing light. So by understanding how different light affects your picture, you can significantly change the way your pictures turn out. Ideally, whenever possible, ensure that there is enough ambient light - the light that is already available whether it’s natural sunlight outdoors or indoor light fixtures. The more that is available, the easier it will be to take a picture without having to be concerned with aperture, shutter speed, or flashes.

indoor photos

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The most obvious area where this isn’t always possible is indoors. No ceiling light or table lamp can be as bright as the sun, so you will almost always have to add more light with a flash. Most professional photographers prefer to have more control over the lighting so they will use a variety of stronger lights to help them. By adding more light to an indoor scene, you can avoid the need for a camera flash, which can be distracting to the subject, particularly when you are trying to capture unposed or natural shots.

flash

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When it isn't practical to add more light to an indoor or low-light scene, you can often rely on a flash to help add to the available light. A common mistake with a flash, however, is to misunderstand the reach of the resulting light. Most portable cameras can only light up a subject within an average of 10 to 15 feet – so, if the subject of the photo is further away than that, then either move closer, or look for an alternate light source or option. Professional photographers will often use an external flash, which can be synchronized with the camera like a built-in flash, but can be much brighter, as well as having the ability to position it separately from the camera itself.

camera adjustments

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Where lighting is less than optimum, you also have a number of options at your disposal if your camera provides more manual control over its functions. Many of these options simply allow for more light to enter the camera (more depth into these features is discussed on the next page covering advanced techniques (http://digitalphotography.tipcentral.net/advancedtechniques.html)). By adjusting the aperture, you can widen the lens opening to let more light in at one time into the camera, thereby taking more of the existing light in than you would otherwise. You can also adjust the shutter speed – by using a longer shutter speed, you allow more time for the available light to enter, however the disadvantage of doing this is that your shots are more prone to camera shake and blurring, so be aware and mount the camera on a flat surface or use a tripod. Many cameras also offer the ability to adjust the exposure which can help to compensate for having either too much or too little light available. A more dramatic example of these kinds of adjustments is with night shots, where photographers will often use a combination of all three, sometimes with shutter speeds of 20 seconds or longer, to effectively capture nighttime traffic, starry galaxies, or unique images of popular monuments.

controlled lighting

As you become more comfortable with lighting, you can change the feeling of a photo by controlling the way light hits different parts of the scene or subject. For example, having the light hit the side of a subject can add more contrast between facial features and shadows, making for a more dramatic pose. Having the light behind a subject can allow the background to be lit while the foreground is dark, which can completely change the mood of the photo. If you want to ensure that everything in your photo is visible, then try and ensure that the indoor or outdoor light is hitting from the front for the most even view of the scene. Many studio photographers will use a variety of techniques, including multiple light sources and bouncing a flash off of a ceiling or object, to further control the lighting of portraits and other staged scenes.

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If your camera provides manual control over its functions, you can get a lot more control over the resulting image. The types of advanced techniques will be different depending on the type of camera you have – smaller point-and-shoot cameras typically will have fewer options (or limit the options to common presets), where more advanced cameras will bring greater flexibility of how the picture is taken, and prosumer and DSL cameras have lenses that allow for further creative picture taking options.

aperture

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Controlling the aperture is an advanced technique which allows you to control the width of the lens opening (like the iris of an eye), allowing for more direct control over how much light enters the camera, and is normally referred to as an 'F-stop' or 'aperture number' such as F2.8 or F8 (a higher number refers to a smaller aperture opening, which means it is letting in less light, and a smaller number refers to a larger aperture opening - in this case, F refers to the focal length of the lens). A smaller aperture number allows you to use a shorter shutter speed (which makes it better for fast action shots), while a larger aperture allows you to use a longer shutter when there is bright light (for example, capturing the motion of a waterfall on a sunny day). Controlling the aperture also affects the depth of field within the photo (which refers to how much of the photo is in focus at the same time). For example, with landscape photography, you could use a small aperature to get a greater depth of field and have the whole scene in focus to see all the details, however with portrait or macro photography, you can use a larger aperture to get a shallow depth of field and isolate/highlight the subject by forcing the rest of the photo out of focus (DOF is also affected by focal length - the longer the focal length the less DOF, so because most smaller compact cameras have shorter focal lengths, it can be difficult for them to achieve a shallow DOF).

shutter speed

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Controlling the shutter speed can also allow you to change the feel of a photo – for example, you may want a fast shutter speed to capture fast action, sports, or other areas where you’d want to 'freeze the scene' like a busy marketplace, or use a slower shutter speed to capture low light shots or introduce a sense of motion into the photo - for example, capturing the movement of water in a waterfall or traffic along a busy city street.

iso/exposure

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In a parallel to the film camera world, digital cameras uses ISO to refer to the sensitivity of the digital sensor (in the same way that film ISO refers to the sensitivity of the film). ISO is referred to numerically, such as ISO 100 or ISO 800, with the higher value meaning more sensitive to exposure from light. Normally this is controlled automatically by the camera, but by manually changing the ISO value, you can make the camera sensor more sensitive to light, allowing you to take photos with a faster shutter speed (a shorter exposure), or with a longer exposure when working with low light. The trade-off of a higher ISO value is that it is similar to turning up the volume on a stereo when the recording is quiet - you hear the music louder, but you also hear more background noise. In the same way, using a higher ISO value will introduce more noise into the photo, although there are many noise-reduction software packages that will allow you to reduce or eliminate noise afterwards.

filters/lenses

The use of filters or lenses can allow you to completely change how light hits the camera, for example, there are a number of add-on filters that can either soften the photo, provide slight blurring around the edges to capture a sensitive mood in portraits, add light flares for a touch of drama, or a polarizer which controls stray light and glare and provides richer, more vivid/saturated photos (if your camera doesn't support filters, one trick is to use a pair of polarizing sunglasses in front of the lens as a polarizing filter - for best results try shooting with the sun behind you). Additionally, more advanced cameras can allow you to add on lenses to the main fixed lens, or change the main lens out completely; in both cases, this can let you use a macro lens, which can help you to get closer to a subject than you otherwise would be able to, like an insect or flower, a wide angle lens for landscape shots and good for capturing landmarks or other large scenes, or a telephoto lens that can give you longer zooms than your camera allows to get closer to a distant object or subject, perfect for a safari trip.

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A major advantage of digital photography is being able to easily rewrite history – you can make changes to the photos before printing or displaying. There are a variety of software packages that will allow you to do this - some photo album software will allow simple touch ups, like Google's Picasa (http://www.picasa.com/), Apple's iPhoto (http://www.apple.com/ilife/iphoto/) or LView (http://www.lview.com/), while more complex packages offer more diverse editing flexibility and more professional results, such as Adobe Photoshop (http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/main.html), or Corel Paint Shop Pro (http://www.corel.com/servlet/Satellite?pagename=Corel3/Products/Display&pfid=1047024307383&pid=1047023911984). Most software packages offer inline help features and tutorials to guide you through these techniques and more.

post-processing

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Common edits to photos include the elimination of red-eye, which many software packages can do with a simple click of a button, and the removal of an unwanted item from a scene, like a stray swimmer or unwanted car on the road – this is called cloning, where the software samples one section of the image to replace the other. By using parts of the original image, the colouring and texture are the same, so results are good enough to fool almost anybody. Another common touchup is to adjust the amount of light that was available when the photo was originally taken – literally, changing how bright some colours are in relation to others, and how bright the image looks overall. For example, this can make a dark photo look brighter, or a dull photo more vivid.

adjusting the horizon

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Another simple correction that can be made is to rotate the photo so that the horizon or objects captured appear straight. This is often more than simply rotating the image 90 degrees one way or the other, from portrait to landscape, but instead leveling the photo so that it looks straight. Because of the perspective of the photo, it may not be possible to make everything level at once, so you should use the horizon as your ruler, or take a dominant object in the scene, like a person or building, and use that as a guide.

cropping

http://digitalphotography.tipcentral.net/images/space.gifhttp://digitalphotography.tipcentral.net/images/crop.jpg

Cropping can be another powerful editing tool, especially with newer cameras that have greater resolution (giving you a larger source image to work from). Cropping trims off unwanted parts of the photo leaving you with the parts you want to keep. This can have a significant effect on the photo, since you can change the balance, composition and drama of a photo, for example, in a photo where a subject was centered, you can crop off more on one side to align objects with the rule of thirds, or remove portions of the background, like a building, tree or stray person. You can also crop a photo to change it from landscape to portrait, leading to a more interesting picture than the one you originally took.

NIGHT TIME PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS

When looking to improve areas of photography, the last area anyone thinks of needing help with is during the night time. "After all, you need light to take photographs, right?" Probably the most popular subject for night time photography is fireworks (http://www.best-family-photography-tips.com/night-time-photography-tips.html#fireworks).
If you are like most people, you have either never tried photographing fireworks, or you had no idea how tricky it was.

However, we'll use some night time photography tips to reduce the learning curve. Let's begin with how to take night time pictures of everyday subjects, like structures and scenery, and then we'll move over to fireworks.

http://www.best-family-photography-tips.com/images/nighttime-photography-tipsJMemoriallarge.jpg

Night time photography tips are valid for "low-light photography" conditions.
This one area of photography is considered by many as truly special and a "cut above" any normal daytime photographs. My theory for this is...


There's something inherently beautiful about a picture containing numerous points of light
The general public believes that night time shots are much more difficult to take, thus making them more prone to receive the occasional "ooohs" and "ahhs." (In my humble opinion, this alone is reason to learn night time photography tips.)Long Exposures are the Secret

http://www.best-family-photography-tips.com/images/nighttime-photography-tipsbridge.jpg

This is one of the lesser known night time photography tips... it deals with cows. Did you think all the night time photography tips dealt with horses? If you've ever heard the expression "till the cows come home," you will never think about it the same after today. Why? Because I'm going to use a farm analogy to describe the relationship between shutter speed, aperture, and proper exposure.
During the day, with 1,000 cows in the field, you only have to leave the barn door (aperture) open a short time before 50 cows wander in and fill up the feeding station (equivalent of enough light to take a picture). Stay with me, here.

At night time, with only 85 cows remaining scattered about in the field, you need to leave the barn door open a much longer time before 50 cows wander in and fill up the feeding station.

Photography works the same way. During the day, since there is so much light available, the aperture (barn door) only needs to be open say, 1/500th of a second to accumulate all the light your camera needs to produce a high quality photograph.

However, at night time, with much less light available, the aperture needs to remain open a much longer time period (from 1/2 to 30 seconds) to accumulate the amount of light needed for a good photograph. The night time photography tip summary is:


Slow shutter speed =
Aperture remaining open longer =
Long Exposure

The only reason the photo above is more difficult to take at night than it would be during the day is that you need a tripod (http://best-family-photography-tips.com/tripod-photography.html#tripodad). Really, that's about it! OK, that's really not all of "it," but having a tripod is a significant step. As an alternative, you could try sitting the camera on a sturdy support (if you can find one), but it would have to be free from all vibrations.

http://www.best-family-photography-tips.com/images/nighttime-photography-tipsFwheel.jpg

See if your camera has a "night time" or "night scene" mode that implies using it during low-light situations. If it does, it will make things easier for you, but not necessarily provide a higher quality photograph.

As a personal note, I prefer making the following types of adjustments myself rather than use the "Night time" setting on my camera. The reason being: the "night time" settings are locked in by the manufacturer and may not be ideal for each situation.

Therefore, if you have a unique situation, using the "automatically programmed" night setting may not generate the best photograph. Some night time photography tip, huh? On the other hand, you can always make Photoshop (http://www.best-family-photography-tips.com/photoshop.html) adjustments the next day to produce the perfect photo.
OK, end of my personal note and back to the non-cow night time photography tips. Without a night time scene mode, you need to get involved with a few settings. Let's first cover the...


Ideal Night Time Scenario
The sky is clear with at least a 3/4 moon
Temperature is between 45 - 80 degrees, and the weather is calm
You can position the camera the perfect distance from your subject
Your camera is on the tripod and ready for the shot
With the small flashlight you always have in your camera bag, switch the camera mode to the equivalent of "Night Scene" mode
Set the focus to "Manual," and set it to infinity.
You trip the shutter with a remote shutter release or self-timerhttp://www.best-family-photography-tips.com/images/Lightning_Framed2.jpg (http://www.best-family-photography-tips.com/digital-picture-frames.html)

That's all there is to it. But to truly understand these night time photography tips, let's quickly review what really happened...
The only thing you did differently than for a typical daytime photograph was securing the camera to the tripod (http://best-family-photography-tips.com/tripod-photography.html#tripodad).
Here's a "sort-of" night time photography tip: If your camera can use an external shutter release, consider getting one, especially if you plan on taking long-exposure shots. Since camera shake is the greatest cause of ruined night time photographs, not touching your camera when you press the shutter is your best strategy.
To avoid camera shake if you don't have an external shutter release, use the self-timer. Pressing the shutter button will usually cause small vibrations, but by the time the the self-timer runs down and the picture gets taken, all vibrations should have passed. Technically, that doesn't fall under "night time photography tips" because it applies whenever you want to insure against camera shake, not just at night.
If your camera is capable of more control during long exposure situations,
Set the ISO between 100 and 400
Set the F-stop to around F/5.6
Press the shutter"Most photographers think that night time photos
are beyond their capabilities. THEY'RE WRONG."

http://skychasers.net/suz_aurora_ap_copy.jpg

The best advise for shooting aurora is to "bracket" your photos, meaning shoot
photos at several different exposure lengths. Most of our auroras are shot on 400 or
800 speed film with exposures of 15 to 30 seconds. Try shooting several in a row and
vary the exposures by about 5 seconds. This will give you a good chance of capturing
a perfect one. Try to get a little horizon, or silhouette of a tree or building against the
sky. This will give your photo some frame of reference for size and distance. The
camera will capture colors that your eye can barely see and even faint aurora yield
surprising results. This photo was shot on Fuji 800 film with a 28mm lens at F 2.8 with
a 20 second long exposure.

Since the Aurora is not visible in our horizon, this tip tries to stress on the night photography using bracketing technique...

Ok, sharing my recent photos. Taken this weekend during the wedding of a workmate sa Sonya's (sp?) garden, Tagaytay.


Very common ang flower na to sa Tagaytay. So habang nagugutom na at nagaantay ng pagkain, ito napagdiskitahan natin.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cc38b3127cceb26d9f64772800000025100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

Unang na serve ay salads. I dunno what leaf is this, but this is included sa salad na naka serve. The actual size of the leaf is around 2 square inch.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cc38b3127cceb26d9f69f61500000025100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

Ganda ng venue. After lunch, pasyal muna sa paligid.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cc38b3127cceb26d9f52771e00000025100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

Di ko na alam ano mga halaman tong mga to.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cc38b3127cceb26d9f55f62900000026100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

I can't seem to create a good composition out of this very beautiful flower. Maybe you guys can give me idea how can I create a good perspective out of this one. :)
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cc38b3127cceb26d9500f67900000026100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

Hmmm...Look at that...
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cc38b3127cceb26d9f6c772000000025100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

Eto pa...Nothing much. Naki hitch na lang ako sa kotse sa kaliwa.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cc38b3127cceb26d9f5a771600000025100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

Di naman siguro magagalit ang ikinasal...maganda naman siya eh...
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cc38b3127cceb26dcbdbf68d00000025100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

These are great shots @Tebs... keep it coming :okay: :okay: :okay:

:bow::bow::bow:

http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/1746/dsc044561ja8.jpg

There are 1001 descriptions playing in my mind looking at it...:cheers:

Its perfect na as is for me:)

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cc38b3127cceb26d9500f67900000026100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

http://library.thinkquest.org/11355/media/photointeractive.gif

Principles of Composition ..The title of this section, is often interpreted incorrectly. In fact, it may appear to be a lie. We do not intend to force you to take photographs, that only adhere to a list of principles.

Photography and composition have been defined as the strongest ways of "seeing". Seeing is the way you perceive things. We strongly encourage you to try and try again. Practice is the only real key to success. Without practice, theories will turn out useless. NOTHING that you try while applying some effort, is a waste of time or materials. Always remember that you are in a process of combining knowledge and imagination.

So instead of placing rules on your work, we can draw some guidelines to help you when you are creating your image. Never the less, these guidelines are by no way intended to restrict your imagination and creativity, they are simply to guide your understanding and help increase aesthetics in your composition.

Simplicity - There should be nothing in the image that does not in some way contribute to the overall quality of the image. This is not to be interpreted as only to have simple photographs. It is rather suggesting that all the elements in your photograph should have some purpose.

Focal Point - No matter how many subjects or objects your image has, it is important to have a center of interest. The purpose for this is to give the image some depth. If you have several subjects, try closing them together or making it more dynamic by overlapping the subjects, or having them doing something, suggesting activity. By doing this you may choose to keep your background and foreground out of focus.

Center of Interest - Not to be confused with focal point, center of interest, is the actual subject, or object being photographed. Completely different from a focal point, center of interest is strategic placement of subjects or objects in the frame to give the image structure. The "center" in Center of Interest does not actually mean placing the subject in the center of the frame. We strongly recommend obeying the "rule of thirds" to give the composition some strength and visual ease. Below is a simple diagram of the areas you should place your subject(s). It is called the rule of thirds because the frame is broken up into a 3 x 3 grid. Each square is an optimal location for a center of interest.


http://library.thinkquest.org/11355/media/thirds.jpg

In the above example, the subject is placed mostly in the right third of the frame. By placing your subject to the side, you move away from the plain and ordinary look. Centering your subject is an easy trap to fall into, because most viewfinders are equipped with targeting aids. These often make it forgettable to place you subject in a different location than the center.

Dominant Lines - Strong lines often give a sense of definition. It might be a long road pointing endlessly down a dessert setting, or a rope from a large ship getting closer from the top corner of a frame to the opposite corner.

Dominant lines are important because they can divide your image into thirds, fourths, even fifths. Thirds are more interesting, but the Ancient Greeks said the best proportion was the "gold section" : roughly 3/5.

Converging Lines - Horizontal lines that converge add the illusion of depth to a scene. Linear perspective has been around since the Renaissance painters discovered it's importance in placing emphasis on certain objects or following a path while looking into a photograph or painting. Vertical converging lines are often seen in tall building photographs, looking up from the base of tall structures.

Subject and Background Relationship - Having a light subject on a dark background or vice versa, can give a contrast that provides strong definition of your subject. This is a very important element to consider when composing. It can eliminate confusion or difficult viewing of images. It is always important to use reciprocal colors between subjects and backgrounds, whenever possible or desired. So the rules are not actually rules, rather they are merely a set of basic guidelines, that every photographer breaks successfully in almost every image he or she takes. These suggestions will give you some insight and help develop strong perspective when taking photographs.

How to take Pictures
..Taking a picture is fairly basic. There are, however, a few simple steps to consider:

Step 1: Cradle the Camera in you left hand so that you can operate both the focusing and aperture rings. Grip the right side of the camera with your right hand. You should be able to operate the shutter release button, shutter speed dial and the film advance lever all without removing your eye from the viewfinder.

http://library.thinkquest.org/11355/media/step1.gif

Step 2: For horizontals, gently press the top of the camera against your forehead. Brace your left elbow against your body and use he camera strap for additional rigidity.

http://library.thinkquest.org/11355/media/step2.gif

Step 3: For verticals, cradle the left side of the camerain your left hand. The right side of the camera, positioned upward, is pressed gently into your forehead. Sometimes, the strap can be used for additional support.

http://library.thinkquest.org/11355/media/step3.gif

Step 4: Seek additional support to keep the camera steady if you are using slow shutter speeds. Brace yourself against a wall or large object.

http://library.thinkquest.org/11355/media/step4.gif

Step 5: If a wall or large object is not available to lean on, try laying down or placing your elbows on a sturdy table or rock.

http://library.thinkquest.org/11355/media/step5.gif

Step 6: If nothing is available AT ALL, the last resort is to just kneel and support your elbow on your knee. This will not give you maximum stillness, but will satisfy moderately slow shutter speeds.

http://library.thinkquest.org/11355/media/step6.gif

Step 7: Make a meter reading, being careful to avoid stray light sources or backlight. If needed, make a meter reading off your hand and open up one f-stop from the reading.

http://library.thinkquest.org/11355/media/step7.gif

Step 8: Set the aperture and shutter speed according to the meter reading.

http://library.thinkquest.org/11355/media/step8.gif

Rule of Thirds (http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/rule-of-thirds/)

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/blog/wp-content/images/200605022117.jpg

Perhaps the most well know principle of photographic composition is the ‘Rule of Thirds‘.

It’s one of the first things that budding digital photographers learn about in classes on photography and rightly so as it is the basis for well balanced and interesting shots.

I will say right up front however that rules are meant to be broken and ignoring this one doesn’t mean your images are necessarily unbalanced or uninteresting. However a wise person once told me that if you intend to break a rule you should always learn it first to make sure your breaking of it is all the more effective!

What is the Rule of Thirds?

The basic principle behind the rule of thirds is to imagine breaking an image down into thirds (both horizontally and vertically) so that you have 9 parts. As follows.
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/blog/wp-content/200604301314.jpg

As you’re taking an image you would have done this in your mind through your viewfinder or in the LCD display that you use to frame your shot.
With this grid in mind the ‘rule of thirds’ now identifies four important parts of the image that you should consider placing points of interest in as you frame your image.

Not only this - but it also gives you four ‘lines’ that are also useful positions for elements in your photo.

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/blog/wp-content/200604301317.jpg

The theory is that if you place points of interest in the intersections or along the lines that your photo becomes more balanced and will enable a viewer of the image to interact with it more naturally. Studies have shown that when viewing images that people’s eyes usually go to one of the intersection points most naturally rather than the center of the shot - using the rule of thirds works with this natural way of viewing an image rather than working against it.

In addition to the above picture of the bee where the bee’s eye becomes the point of focus here are some of examples:

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/blog/wp-content/200604301255.jpg

In this image I’ve purposely placed the head of my subject on one of the intersecting points - especially his eyes which are a natural point of focus for a portrait. His tie and flower also take up a secondary point of interest.

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/blog/wp-content/200604301258.jpg

In this shot I’ve placed the subject along a whole line which means she is considerably off center and therefore creating an additional point of interest. Placing her right in the center of the frame could have resulted in an ‘awkward’ shot.

In a similar way a good technique for landscape shots is to position horizons along one of the horizontal lines also as I’ve done with the following shot (I’ll let you imagine the lines).

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/blog/wp-content/IMG_2790.jpg

Using the Rule of Thirds comes naturally to some photographers but for many of us takes a little time and practice for it to become second nature.
In learning how to use the rule of thirds (and then to break it) the most important questions to be asking of yourself are:
What are the points of interest in this shot?
Where am I intentionally placing them?Once again - remember that breaking the rule can result in some striking shots - so once you’ve learnt it experiment with purposely breaking it to see what you discover.
Lastly - keep the rule of thirds in mind as you edit your photos later on. Post production editing tools today have good tools for cropping and reframing images so that they fit within the rules. Experiment with some of your old shots to see what impact it might have on your photos.

Exposure (Basic)

Note: Completing this lesson requires a camera capable of manually setting exposure.

What is the right exposure? Not to make this complicated, but exposure is a choice you have to make. The exposure you choose determines how the image looks. But, we'll start with a basic understanding and work up from there.

Exposure consists of three factors: how sensitive the film is to light (remember, I use the word "film" to refer to whatever medium used for capturing the image, whether it is the Digital Camera's sensor or actually film,) the amount of light going through a lens - called the aperture, and how long the film is exposed - called the shutter speed.

For a little more about how this works see the Camera Basics Page (http://www.bestphotolessons.com/index.php?s=content&p=Camera).

For the moment, we'll set an average exposure on an average scene.

If you’re camera does not have a built in meter - its really old. But, that’s okay. You’ll just have to buy a hand held meter. If you have an SLR or advanced point and shoot digital camera, spend some time with the manual to find out how to bring up the “Histogram” which graphically shows the amount of light in an exposure.

First exercise - set your ISO to 100, set your camera to ƒ16 and the shutter to 1/125th of a second. (Some digital cameras are limited to ISO 200 - which means you have to cut your exposure by one stop, i.e. use 1/250th instead of 1/125th of a second) With this setting, take your camera out during a sunny day, put the sun behind you and shoot anything - you'll have a well exposed image. This is called the "Sunny 16" rule.

To make life interesting, and your photography more creative, you can change the setting and still have the same exposure. Try going to ƒ11 at 1/250th of a second. Push it a little further at ƒ8 at 1/500th of a second. These are all the same exposure because the same total amount of light is hitting the film.

Of course, you're not always going to shoot with the sun behind you on a sunny day. For other situations you need to be able to find out your exposure with a meter. This can be in your camera or hand held.

Looking at any scene, your meter will give you a suggestion as to what exposure to use. Most of the time this is fairly accurate.

Using your meter, take a reading off of something with mixed tones in shade on a sunny day - you'll find the exposure is two or three stops slower than the "Sunny 16."

One of the best things to do for more accurate metering is to meter the light hitting the specific subject you’re shooting. If you’re shooting something in a small patch of light, walk right up to it and find out what the meter suggests. Then, go back to where you’re taking the picture from - and with the camera in manual - set the exposure to what was suggested.

If you’re shooting a Caucasian person, you can meter of their cheek, open up one stop. If the meter said f8, then change it from f8 to f5.6, or if you want, change the speed - if it said 1/250 then set it to 1/125, etc. This is a rule of thumb and changes from person to person. With other races you may want to leave the exposure as suggested by the meter, and with darker skin you may want to close down one stop. If in doubt, take pictures a variety of exposures and make note of which one worked.

You can also use your hand to help determine exposure in a variety of situations. First - on a sunny day, do the f16 rule, setting the camera to f16 at 1/125 of a second. Hold your hand in the sunlight and meter it. You’ll probably notice the meter says you should change the exposure. Note how much the meter says your hand is off from the f16 rule and keep that in mind. Lets say the meter said you should expose your hand at f22. That is one stop darker than what is actually needed. Now walk into the shade and meter off your hand again. If it says f11, you know that is one stop too dark, so set your camera to f8.

Knowing what your hand is for exposure can help you set exposure in most situations - just make sure your hand is in the same kind of light as the subject you’re shooting.

A little more accurate way to do exposures is to buy an “18 per cent grey card.” Most camera stores and photo departments should have these. To use it, just put it beside the subject you’re shooting, and meter off of it. If you’re further away than is practical to walk up to the subject - set the card in the same kind of light as the subject and again meter off the card.

Second exercise - either with an 18 per cent grey card, or using your hand as described above, meter something in dark shade and find out the exposure there.

A final note - A meter is very handy for getting your exposure, but it does have a limitation. As said earlier, the meter thinks the world is 18 per cent grey. Most of the world is kind of like 18 per cent grey, but not all of it.

Look at what you're shooting. If its black (or very dark), your meter will try to make it grey - and make the exposure too light. Conversely, if you're subject is white, the meter will try to make it darker - or 18 per cent grey.

There are two more lessons on high key and low key photos which will help you handle more extreme situations.

As a point of reference, these are the typical “whole stops” for exposure;
Aperature - f1.8, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16 and 22.
Shutter - 1 second, 1/2 second, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000, 1/2000, 1/4000.
Many cameras have more stops at either end of these scales, but these are typical. As well, most modern cameras have half stops or third stops. These make learning a little more difficult, but keep the above numbers in mind to do proper exposures.

thanks Ibex. Well, you are now talking about composition. I like that. Very useful. Photographing lightning is a dream for me. I have a single frame of that, but the lightning is very inconspicuous. Challenging I may say to shoot stuff like that.

Thanks for posting these tips. :okay:

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/klutz1030/Pics%201/DSC051431.jpg

thanks Ibex. Well, you are now talking about composition. I like that. Very useful. Photographing lightning is a dream for me. I have a single frame of that, but the lightning is very inconspicuous. Challenging I may say to shoot stuff like that.

Thanks for posting these tips. :okay:

I am still in the learning process too, these helping tips come in handy for all of us whose still trying to get the hang of it. Just bought the camera this year kaya medyo nangangapa pa. :cheers:

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/klutz1030/Pics%201/DSC051422.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/klutz1030/Pics%201/DSC036991.jpg

nice and refreshing. i always enjoy zoomed in photos which end up like macros. good job Ibex. what's your cam model?

Nice photos Ibex and Tebs.

Francis: Wala ka pa ring kupas. Nice yung sunflower(?) photo saka yung bride. :okay:

thank you zach, kaw naman magpost at magcocomment din kami. hindi ata yun sunflower. it's smaller than a sunflower. baka half the size.

maganda talaga yung bride. halos magkasabay kami pumasok sa company. but on a different team. naging love team pa kami. ehem...wag ka maingay ah. last year, naging teammates kami ulit. pero i got transferred to another team. sumunod din siya, nag-aaply siyempre. so ngayon, under siya sa kin. :D

she promised to give me a DLSU jacket and i'll give him a maroon one. wala pa rin. kaso yun...kinasal na. hehe...she stands tall. halos umabot na sa height ko na 5'9". there's funny story about her and her dad who works as a sales manager of one huge multinational pharma company, just several floors above our office. sabi niya her dad is known sa office nila, not because of his spectacular sales accomplishments or anything. he is famous for having a beautiful daughter!!! that was a joke. which i bought...hehe...di naman ganong kagandahan, pero alam mo ba yung babaeng overall package niya ay gorgeous? tipong ganun. OT na. sori po...more pics guys...

Wala ako sa mood magtake ng photos ngayon. Perhaps pag nakabili na ko DSLR, gaganahan ulit ako. Konting ipon na lang. Sana maambunan ako ng cash gifts this Christmas. Pandagdag din :lol: Sana mahabol in time for Pyro Olympics.

Feedback and opinions naman sa Sony DSLR's :)

di ako maalam sa Sony DSLRs. Bakit ayaw mo ng Nikon D70? wag umasa sa cash bonus. umasa sa credit card. hehe...ops, wala pala ako nun.

me pyro olympics ba? nawalan ako ng gana na ng fireworks. ewan ko nga ba. lam mo ba one saturday napadaan ako ng MOA. gusto ko sana manood ng sunset. magmuni muni. di ako umabot. asar. kalulubog lang. dumaan pa kasi ako ng office. tas me fireworks pala dun pag saturday. naaliw lang ako sa pyromusical nila. malungkot that time. kasi Armaggedon Themesong ang background. haha...me mga bagong epeks. kakaaliw. yung parang candles na naffire sa tubig. dun lang sila, parang kandila, nakalight up. siguro 2 minutes. then sabay sabay silang sasabog! aliw na aliw ako. samahan mo ako minsan dun. then maybe i'll take video, and you can take photos. kung gusto mo lang...pwede naman magpunta magisa. me thai resto daw kasi dun sabi ng workmate kong kasama ko sa BKK.

Mahal lang ang Sony DSLR's.

Yung themesong from Aerosmith? HAHAHAHA They use that para sa fireworks? :lol: Parang di bagay.

Di ko alam kung meron. Nakasulat sa website, naghahanap pa alng sila sponsors. Dapat by this time meron na announcements kasi last time, may news na about it pag Christmas. Ngayon, parang walang-wala.

Gawan na lang natin ng EB pag may Pyro Olympics.

naku, kaw bahala. magpunta na lang ang gusto. hehe...

Aerosmith nga. yung intro instrumental ng kanta sobrang ok. sabay naman yung rhythm ng fireworks sa kanta. para akong bata dun. buti na lang busy ang mga tao sa panonood. kasi ako napapaiyak dun sa isang tabi. me naalala...:ohno: erase erase...

nice and refreshing. i always enjoy zoomed in photos which end up like macros. good job Ibex. what's your cam model?

^^ Hmmmm good job for a beginner...

Mine is a Sony Cybershot H7, it's not top of the line though but for point and shoot photography it's doing great.. for me ha. Never had experience with other brands so i cant compare.:) What do you have @Tebs? Yung ginamit mo sa kasal...:cheers:




http://www.dpreview.com/news/0702/sony_h9_frontback-001.jpg
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0702/sony_h9_3qtrfront-001.jpg http://www.dpreview.com/news/0702/sony_h9_side-001.jpg

Di naman yan point and shoot, Ibex. that's a prosumer cam, yung H7 mo. Kasi me capability na yan ng manual settings pareho ng SLRs. ang akin ay ang lumang Canon S2 IS. Been my best friend since March 2006. :D yours is relatively new. kasi ang pinagpilian ko dati ay Sony DSC H1 and Canon S2 IS. Ngayon S5 IS na at DSC H7 siguro. Kaya top of the line na din ang sayo. Magkano mo nabili? Kung masyadong mahal, i private message mo na lang. Hehehe...Isa lang ang factor na pinagkaiba ng S2 at H1 dati - yung vari-angle na LCD ng Canon. Kaya yun binili ko. At least, pwede ko kuhanan lagi sarili ko na nakikita ko ano magiging outcome. :lol:

Rule of Thirds (http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/rule-of-thirds/)

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/blog/wp-content/images/200605022117.jpg

Perhaps the most well know principle of photographic composition is the ‘Rule of Thirds‘.

It’s one of the first things that budding digital photographers learn about in classes on photography and rightly so as it is the basis for well balanced and interesting shots.

I will say right up front however that rules are meant to be broken and ignoring this one doesn’t mean your images are necessarily unbalanced or uninteresting. However a wise person once told me that if you intend to break a rule you should always learn it first to make sure your breaking of it is all the more effective!

I agree with this. You should learn this first before trying to break this rule.

Although making horizon be as it is...i.e., horizontal line, I think there's no rule saying your horizon should always be horizontal. But for some reasons, I am disturbed everytime I see landscape photos where horizon is distorted. But it's not a rule anyway, so we have the option to be unconventional sometimes.

Di naman yan point and shoot, Ibex. that's a prosumer cam, yung H7 mo. Kasi me capability na yan ng manual settings pareho ng SLRs. ang akin ay ang lumang Canon S2 IS. Been my best friend since March 2006. :D yours is relatively new. kasi ang pinagpilian ko dati ay Sony DSC H1 and Canon S2 IS. Ngayon S5 IS na at DSC H7 siguro. Kaya top of the line na din ang sayo. Magkano mo nabili? Kung masyadong mahal, i private message mo na lang. Hehehe...Isa lang ang factor na pinagkaiba ng S2 at H1 dati - yung vari-angle na LCD ng Canon. Kaya yun binili ko. At least, pwede ko kuhanan lagi sarili ko na nakikita ko ano magiging outcome. :lol:

Actually what's on the photo is the H9 ng Sony Cybershot. Dalawang bagay lang ang pagkakaiba nila sa H7, the newer model has 3" tilting LCD screen (2.5" lang ang H7) and it has a nightshot (infrared) capability... thats all.

This one has remote control pero nakakadismaya kasi sa front lang ang sensor i was hoping they can be operated on both sides to be able to take shots discreetly LOL...

:cheers: Before i had this cam its always my desire to have a DSLR camera but when i surf the net for it, this one caught my eye and it's on my budget lang. Pero in time i'll get myself a DSLR camera.^^

Mura lang ito @tebs (pero sa labas mo bibilhin to get big big savings) sad reality :ohno:, i asked my sister to buy it for me (shes working sa London) syempre binayaran ko ng Peso hehehe at pinadala nalang niya sa isang kakilala na umuwi this year...:):):) Almost half ang difference. Sa HK when my cousin was there to take the NCLEX i asked her to try to find how much it cost there and it's 320 USD which it fairly in the same range sa mga presyo sa net. Dito aabot ng 35T Php sa Sony store diba malaki ang kaibahan?:nuts:

I agree with this. You should learn this first before trying to break this rule.

Although making horizon be as it is...i.e., horizontal line, I think there's no rule saying your horizon should always be horizontal. But for some reasons, I am disturbed everytime I see landscape photos where horizon is distorted. But it's not a rule anyway, so we have the option to be unconventional sometimes.

There are some situations that calls one to go out of the usual if it makes scene more dramatic/artistic in an angle.:cheers:

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/klutz1030/DSC078531.jpg

nice shot. pero i guess there's too much light. saka lagyan mo ng accent. hehe...(ano yun?)

anlaki nga ng difference. dahil ba yun sa tax? dito mga USD700 dati si S2 IS, pero nung nagtanong ako ng S3 IS sa HK, wala pang Php20K. so kung USD320, ang mura na nun. kaso ayaw ko na ng prosumer, yung totoo naman...kaya DSLR na. Siguro Nikon D70. Kaso ngayon kung walang special ocassion, or walang nagrerequest, di na tayo nakakapag photoshoot. So useless ata pag bumili ako ng DSLR. Magkano na kaya ngayon ang Nikon D70?

Ako naman, meron nang sapat na pera para sa pinakainaasam-asam ko na Nikon D40x kit pero ngayon naman eh wala nang stocks sa jerry.ph. Guess I'll have to wait again :D

Love this thread! I'm subscribing to it.

^^ pwede palang magsubscribe sa threads?

hi Sinj. Ba't di ka na lang magpabili sa US? Or sa ibang bansa?

I don't want to take a risk :lol:

nice shot. pero i guess there's too much light. saka lagyan mo ng accent. hehe...(ano yun?)

anlaki nga ng difference. dahil ba yun sa tax? dito mga USD700 dati si S2 IS, pero nung nagtanong ako ng S3 IS sa HK, wala pang Php20K. so kung USD320, ang mura na nun. kaso ayaw ko na ng prosumer, yung totoo naman...kaya DSLR na. Siguro Nikon D70. Kaso ngayon kung walang special ocassion, or walang nagrerequest, di na tayo nakakapag photoshoot. So useless ata pag bumili ako ng DSLR. Magkano na kaya ngayon ang Nikon D70?


:) The photo was trimmed and nasobra sa enhancement kaya ganyan ang outcome @tebs, Medyo na blurred na sa may upper part kasi ang rest ng lower part ay na trimmed down na. I wanted sana to have an impression of a natural vegetation from that macro shot.:cheers: Better luck next time hehehe... Still a long way to go i'm honing my artistic ability pa as of now.:):):) Thanks sa comment I needed that to improve...^^

As i said i'll get myself a DSLR ...hehehe pero as of now dito muna ako sa H7.:banana::banana::banana:

I don't want to take a risk :lol:

sinj what risk are you saying?? :)

^^ Eto si langaw... it's not one of the nicest subject one could have pero natuwa ako kasi na convince ko sya to pose for this photo shoot. hahahahhaha :lol::lol::lol: :bash:

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/klutz1030/DSC078611.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/klutz1030/DSC077181.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/klutz1030/Pics%201/DSC044631.jpg

hehe...photogenic pala ang langaw. ok ang mga macros mo. ok ang focusing capability ng H7! Ibex, i think the formula required to hone our skills is humility. we need that to correct mistakes and accept constructive criticism from others. :okay: anyway, you forgot your white balance there with your paper clips. nice choice of subject!

sinj what risk are you saying?? :)

Yung mascam or baka magkaproblema sa shipping or what-have-you. :D

If sa US ako bibili ng cam, is there any trusted website or dealer where I can buy a D40x kit with at least a 2GB memory card? Thanks! :)

Also, may nagsabi sa akin na sobrang mura daw ng mga stuff for photography (cams, lenses, etc.) sa Thailand, is this true? May nakabili dun ng cam, I forgot what brand, P32k daw sa Pinas pero dun daw sa Thailand eh P16k lang (or half of the price in Pinas!)

hehe...photogenic pala ang langaw. ok ang mga macros mo. ok ang focusing capability ng H7! Ibex, i think the formula required to hone our skills is humility. we need that to correct mistakes and accept constructive criticism from others. :okay: anyway, you forgot your white balance there with your paper clips. nice choice of subject!

Thanks Tebs sa comments... kaya nga im posting my works para mapuna nyo and i will know where to improve :banana::banana::banana:


Yung mascam or baka magkaproblema sa shipping or what-have-you. :D

If sa US ako bibili ng cam, is there any trusted website or dealer where I can buy a D40x kit with at least a 2GB memory card? Thanks! :)

Yun din ang concern ko nung nag order ako for my cam, kaya nga sa trusted friend ipinadala..:)

One thing din yung spare battery inorder ng sister ko sa ebay kasi di nahabol sa pagpadala, it came from ebay hongkong nung dumating di sya original na Sony battery kaya may issues akon ngayon dahil pa minsan minsan nag kokoment sya na di daw compatible yung battery. Although after restarting gumagana na naman sya. tsk! tsk! tsk! :ohno:

^ Kaya nga eh, I'm browsing ebay now and nakakatempt ang prices ng D40x kit nila. If sa Pinas, I could get a D40x 18-55 kit for P32k, I could get naman the D40x 55-200 kit at ebay. Hmm. I'm thinking of getting a D40 nalang with the 18-55 and 55-200 lenses. What do you think? Do the extra 4 megapixels of the D40x make a difference really?

^ Kaya nga eh, I'm browsing ebay now and nakakatempt ang prices ng D40x kit nila. If sa Pinas, I could get a D40x 18-55 kit for P32k, I could get naman the D40x 55-200 kit at ebay. Hmm. I'm thinking of getting a D40 nalang with the 18-55 and 55-200 lenses. What do you think? Do the extra 4 megapixels of the D40x make a difference really?

as far as i know sinj larger pixel quality makes a difference in printing large photos... pero i think 4 Mpixel isn't that big issue, siguro sa professional level it would matter :)

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/klutz1030/Pics%201/DSC050582.jpg

http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/7067/xl3uh0.jpg

here's mine...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2065/2102957265_a03326d12b.jpg

-kentaro-

Of course it is a must that you learn the basics. Eventually you'll develop your own style. Here's mine.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2202/1542419621_63199310e7.jpg
tilted, subject off center, movement

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/159/378163716_313dbefd10.jpg
my winning sinulog 2007 shot, applying the rule of thirds

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1218/1221034230_c6ceb0cb6a.jpg
foreground/background, a view of the lake is common. my take on this one. i included the signage.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1415/1013101471_5081e58cca.jpg
movement again, face is sharp, tilted

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1335/826240793_9c57967741.jpg
framed, door is off center, subject is centered.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1051/1333796759_e8fc89518c.jpg
selective coloring, rule of thirds

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/217/451890433_6a3d784e01.jpg
experiment, nightshots can be tricky sometimes resulting to overexposure

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/209/504129107_81586520fa.jpg
photograph people doing what they do best, framed by walking people, perspective

i love movement in pictures... it's not the camera, it's the skill. I use both a point and shoot and a DSLR. [markiiboi even won using a point and shoot camera!]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2042/2070509635_a9918cd926.jpg

so keep on shooting guys!

more pictures in the links below. Merry Christmas!

-kentaro-

:applause: :applause: :applause: :applause:

:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

Very nice works of art...:)

Great shots.

Galing talaga ni Kentaro. No wonder he is award-winning. :applause: :applause: :applause:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/159/378163716_313dbefd10.jpg
my winning sinulog 2007 shot, applying the rule of thirds



No wonder it won. The photo is fantastic. :okay:

yes very very fantastic photos! ang galing mo Kentaro! this is for me the best....keep them on coming and keep on clicking! you inspire us...
Of course it is a must that you learn the basics. Eventually you'll develop your own style. Here's mine.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/209/504129107_81586520fa.jpg
photograph people doing what they do best, framed by walking people, perspective

-kentaro-

:applause::applause: Incredible photos! Keep them coming everyone.:okay:

Here are a few of my random shots while in Bohol.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2014/2127897701_11e812a2a2.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2111/2127902479_a3e53d80ed.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2090/2128677296_3463a9ea57.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/klutz1030/Pics%201/DSC078852.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/217/451890433_6a3d784e01.jpg
experiment, nightshots can be tricky sometimes resulting to overexposure


i love those "starry" lights!! great exposure!!

and, yup, that's a great advice about cameras... I too have kept my Nikon Coolpix and still use it now that i shoot with a DSLR

I'm getting my new Nikon D40 kit in 1-2 days. :banana:

@Gibb: Very nice photos. Btw, from where do you buy your DSLR's accessories? (filters, lenses, etc.) Thanks.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/217/451890433_6a3d784e01.jpg

don't know if it has been answered yet but did you use any filters to create the crisp and well formed glare?, if so what is it?

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/217/451890433_6a3d784e01.jpg

don't know if it has been answered yet but did you use any filters to create the crisp and well formed glare?, if so what is it?

nope... just the kit lens for this one.

-kentaro-

@sinjin... the filters that i have are gifts from friends... there are stores in cebu that sell accessories.

everyday items can be great accessories too!

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1119/529464907_a879de4377.jpg
a sweater worn on model's head.

This one has remote control pero nakakadismaya kasi sa front lang ang sensor i was hoping they can be operated on both sides to be able to take shots discreetly LOL...

Gumamit ka ng salamin, the correct placement will allow you to use the remote control even from the other side of the cam. :D

Here are a few of my random shots while in Bohol.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2014/2127897701_11e812a2a2.jpg




Sorry, but is this not Nogas Island in Antique?

EDIT: Whoops I couild be wrong, but look at the resemblance... http://www.upvisayas.net/forum/Smileys/classic/ashamed.gif
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1009/621019873_c87ae85e5b.jpg?v=0
photo by gabronnie2003 at flickr

Happy New Year everyone. I'm not sure if I will be able to access the net till after the new year.

http://www.bytephoto.com/photopost/data/500/7037New_Year.jpg

Gumamit ka ng salamin, the correct placement will allow you to use the remote control even from the other side of the cam. :D

Thanks @Thomasian i had that in mind but i think that's very awkward thing to do.:lol::lol::lol: Why haven't they thought of that in the first place, i mean having the utmost control over the Cam:)

First shot with my new toy. :D

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/666/dsc0002copyow8.jpg

Sorry, but is this not Nogas Island in Antique?

EDIT: Whoops I couild be wrong, but look at the resemblance...

Yeah, the two island look alike from afar. Here is Balicasag looking at Panglao Island.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2111/2147764275_7b7d9f8cc9_b.jpg

Panglao Sunset

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2309/2147774863_04fe90a81d.jpg

Snap away folks! :colgate:











Link to Thread 3 (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=438579).

New thread! (http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?p=17393055#post17393055) :colgate:



:lock:

http://i4.tinypic.com/7xxqf5z.jpg

:banana:

http://www.skyscrapercity.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=17409317

Happy New Year!

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2252/2151690426_71e98f5244_o.jpg

Wala lang just wanna share this.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/ancient27/IMG_4782.jpg

Guys what's the proper setting for a digital camera when taking a picture of a light show?

For fireworks display most digital cams have fireworks photography setting it is usually, Shutter speed = 2" and Apperture = f5.6 :):):)

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/4215/dsc087223aacs9.jpg

from last night NY eve celebrations...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2205/2153008837_aec930bf36.jpg?v=0

^^ my first time to shoot fireworks last night. unfortunately, it was not a coordinated show... lights just pop out left and right i didn't know which way i should turn :lol:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2175/2153826952_9a015cdc3a.jpg?v=

Very nice to see forumers posting their fireworks shots here. Good job guys. Once in a lifetime experience ang pagkuha ng fireworks photos. :okay:

i forgot to bring any memory card on my vacation to Laguna. no single photo taken. :( we spent the night on a hotspring resort to keep away from the noise.

Guys what's the proper setting for a digital camera when taking a picture of a light show?

Raven, if you are talking about fireworks shows, you can use smallest aperture opening to prevent astray lights from coming in. And use shutter speed ranging from 2 to 15 seconds. :) You can play with the settings but keep one thing in mind...use TRIPOD or a steady support.

If you are talking about the neon light show like of the Symphony of Lights, (tama ba?), I think the settings are same.

Don't do this...dapat gumamit ng tripod. Buti na lang indi nakaharap yung guy sa kin. Baka mapagalitan ako. Hehe...
http://images.skyscraper1026.multiply.com/image/11/photos/11/600x600/5.jpg/lights943.jpg?et=%2BbK7ulUwAclyT0a29LkrZw&nmid=67593660

I think they call this Willow Tree
http://images.skyscraper1026.multiply.com/image/11/photos/11/600x600/8.jpg/lights0984208423.jpg?et=nJgW05hgiy3LEhJMGmE%2CmQ&nmid=67593660

Butterflies, Bees and Flowers
http://images.skyscraper1026.multiply.com/image/11/photos/11/600x600/11.jpg/lights3.jpg?et=SxC5S1qSjWFDBlA0t68NMQ&nmid=67593660

I used 8 sec speed, min aperture opening (largest number), and used 2 sec delay sa self timer. Hehe...Nag-devised na lang ako ng paraan para indi magshake ang camera. I used my bag as support sa first photo and tripod on the 2 others. Hope you like them...

For fireworks display most digital cams have fireworks photography setting it is usually, Shutter speed = 2" and Apperture = f5.6 :):):)

Hi Ibex. Nice fireworks shot. This is the limitation of point and shoot cams. You can't play with the settings. To prevent glowing streaks...you can try higher aperture settings (e.g. 11.0 or higher).

By the way, what about posting your fireworks photos here? :)

Happy New Year!

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2252/2151690426_71e98f5244_o.jpg

Para tong "you and me...against the world. i tried doing this before...pepper naman ginamit ko. red and greed peppers. hehehe...you really meant it to be like that @ MtApo?

Sinj...congrats on finally having a DSLR. Talo mo na kami ni Kent, na naka prosumer lang. Or naka DSLR na din ba si Soul? Hehe...Nice cocoshot there! Siguro mas dramatic pag bamabagyo ang setting. Hehe...:okay:

^ Hindi naman sa gear 'yan eh, sa photographer 'yan. Ako, 'di ko pa masyadong kabisado ang aperture at exposure :lol:

hehe...praktis lang yan. lahat tayo nagsimula sa scratch. but i believe there are those who are really born with the talent. kitang kita naman sa mga qualities ng composition nila. tipo bang the technicals just follow.

oh by the way, i tried searching the net for the 3rd Pyro Olympics. and here's what i found...GOOD NEWs to all photo enthusiasts. But this time, I think I'll settle on taking videos. Para less hassle. :) Another good news...It will be staged every Saturday starting Feb 16 for 5 saturdays. Bili na kaya ako ng tickets? Saturdays will be free days for me, unless I change job before February. Yipee!!!


Check this out...
http://www.philstar.com/index.php?Starweek&p=49&type=2&sec=52

I want to share mine too..

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/klutz1030/DSC06387B.jpg (http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/klutz1030/DSC06387B.jpg)
1AM yesterday


1AM yesterday, after the New Year's eve celebration.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/thomasian/102_0154x.jpg

Mas malinaw pa rin yung kay Ibex.

Can you post the exif Aaron?

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/thomasian/102_0154.gif

ayan, nagpapraktis na si Sinjin. :) ok ang moon shot mo Aaron. isang optical zoom na lang at kapareho na ng kay Ibex. :okay:

here's my shot of the waning moon Dec. 27, 2007

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2370/2142879678_8ff6413239.jpg?v=0

Hi Ibex. Nice fireworks shot. This is the limitation of point and shoot cams. You can't play with the settings. To prevent glowing streaks...you can try higher aperture settings (e.g. 11.0 or higher).

By the way, what about posting your fireworks photos here? :)

@Tebs my Cam has a Manual setting pero Max aperture of 8.0 lang sya so i have to live with it...:banana2:

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/9607/dsc087502sv3.jpg

http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/211/dsc087422yw3.jpg

http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/4070/dsc087541tj3.jpg

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/2812/dsc087271kh8.jpg

http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/4475/dsc08774yd4.jpg

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/4215/dsc087223aacs9.jpg
New Year Fireworks Shots

nice nice @ Ibex. you had a great time taking those pics? if 8.0 is the maximum, pano kaya...(or is it the minimum?), maybe you can compensate that by using the lowest ISO setting, let's say 50. try natin sa Pyro Olympics. Kaso balak ko video lang. Para naman makapag enjoy ako. :D

Si Ph Man pala si Tebs. Ngayon ko lang nafigure-out. :lol:

nice nice @ Ibex. you had a great time taking those pics? if 8.0 is the maximum, pano kaya...(or is it the minimum?), maybe you can compensate that by using the lowest ISO setting, let's say 50. try natin sa Pyro Olympics. Kaso balak ko video lang. Para naman makapag enjoy ako. :D

@Tebs/Ph Man - Since getting the best exposure the Least shutter speed is inversely proportional to the aperture size then f8.0 is my maximum and f2.7 is my minimum or the other way around. Please correct me if I'm wrong... thanks :)

My least ISO setting is 80 and the max is 3200.

For fireworks display most digital cams have fireworks photography setting it is usually, Shutter speed = 2" and Apperture = f5.6 :):):)

Yes I tried the fireworks mode but I wasn't happy with the colors the lights blurs in a very ugly way. I'll try the setting that you suggest next time..thanks:okay:

Raven, if you are talking about fireworks shows, you can use smallest aperture opening to prevent astray lights from coming in. And use shutter speed ranging from 2 to 15 seconds. :) You can play with the settings but keep one thing in mind...use TRIPOD or a steady support.

If you are talking about the neon light show like of the Symphony of Lights, (tama ba?), I think the settings are same.

Oh yes exactly, a friend was asking me on how to picture it correctly and I told him that my photos symphony itself was blurry, I guess you're right. My cam has no shake reduction control and the distance from the Kowloon viewing area only makes the lighting effect much worse. I guess I do need a tripod for steady support. Dati kasi sinubukan kong ipatong dun sa break water kaso hindi makuha yung lights coming out from IFC towers. So I have to hold it from my hands:ohno:...Thanks sa tips! :okay:

here's my shot of the waning moon Dec. 27, 2007

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2370/2142879678_8ff6413239.jpg?v=0

Hi Ate Lauren, nice shot! Diba po you own a D40? What other lenses do you have aside from the kit lens?

Hi Ate Lauren, nice shot! Diba po you own a D40? What other lenses do you have aside from the kit lens?


thanks! yup, i have a D40x, it's almost practically the twin of the D40. mine came with two kit lenses - 18-55mm & 55-200mm - both of which aren't VR :nuts: but i'm happy with both lenses :)

anyways, the first lens that i bought was the 50mm f/1.8 AF bec everyone was raving about it & i wanted to see what the heck it can really do. also, pwede ko na rin makita kung pano gamitin ang AF lens sa D40x - manual focus lang sya but it's really easy to use. besides there's a focus indicator naman. this lens is one of the cheapest. sobrang fun syang gamitin! very small and light. plus big aperture (f/1.8) & very sharp! :okay:

i also have two Micro lenses... the 60mm AF and the 105mm AF-S VR. Mas mabilis mag focus yung 105mm AF-S kaysa 60mm AF but the 105 is a lot heavier! so i end up using the 60mm a lot more often than the 105. but i love both lenses because they can focus really close :okay: of course pwede din sila pang regular shooting except that they're not zoom lenses so my legs have to do the zooming :)

@Tebs/Ph Man - Since getting the best exposure the Least shutter speed is inversely proportional to the aperture size then f8.0 is my maximum and f2.7 is my minimum or the other way around. Please correct me if I'm wrong... thanks :)

My least ISO setting is 80 and the max is 3200.


isn't it the other way around? your smallest aperture is f/8 and the biggest is f/2.7? di ba bigger f/number = smaller aperture opening and smaller f/number = bigger aperture opening

here's my shot of the waning moon Dec. 27, 2007

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2370/2142879678_8ff6413239.jpg?v=0

Isn't it amazing to put into frames scenes that cannot be seen by the naked eye? :okay:

You are right Ms Lauren and Ibex, It's the other way around. The larger the aperture number, the smaller the opening is....Kakalito talaga ang photography ano? Pero sulit naman...

@ Raven, I have no idea how the other photographers were able to get awesome photos of the symphony of light. I think I used purely automatic settings. Kasi bago pa ang cam ko nun. Asar. Di bale pagbalik natin dun, pag-aaralan ko pano makakuha ng matinong photo ng laser light show. I did not even know what's the day when laser show and fireworks happen at the same time. Saturday pala.

Look at what I got, you won't see any neon light. :lol: Bad....
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce26b3127ccebdfedb9b607800000016100AZN2bJkzZOGPg
Let's go back there for more! :banana:

Si Ph Man pala si Tebs. Ngayon ko lang nafigure-out. :lol:

New year, new life...Let's drink to that Zach...:cheers:

@Tebs/Ph Man - Since getting the best exposure the Least shutter speed is inversely proportional to the aperture size then f8.0 is my maximum and f2.7 is my minimum or the other way around. Please correct me if I'm wrong... thanks :)

My least ISO setting is 80 and the max is 3200.

Your ISO is tooooo wide. hehe...Kaso dapat merong mas mababa...kahit 50 lang or maybe 25 (meron ba nun?).

Astig mag fireworks photoshoot di ba? Amazing ang results. Di kelangan maging masyadong crafty. Siguro papasok na lang yung craftiness dun sa kung pano ka kukuha ng photos and at the same time enjoy the show! :banana:
Tara, punta tayo sa Pyro Olympics this year!

thanks! yup, i have a D40x, it's almost practically the twin of the D40. mine came with two kit lenses - 18-55mm & 55-200mm - both of which aren't VR :nuts: but i'm happy with both lenses :)

anyways, the first lens that i bought was the 50mm f/1.8 AF bec everyone was raving about it & i wanted to see what the heck it can really do. also, pwede ko na rin makita kung pano gamitin ang AF lens sa D40x - manual focus lang sya but it's really easy to use. besides there's a focus indicator naman. this lens is one of the cheapest. sobrang fun syang gamitin! very small and light. plus big aperture (f/1.8) & very sharp! :okay:

i also have two Micro lenses... the 60mm AF and the 105mm AF-S VR. Mas mabilis mag focus yung 105mm AF-S kaysa 60mm AF but the 105 is a lot heavier! so i end up using the 60mm a lot more often than the 105. but i love both lenses because they can focus really close :okay: of course pwede din sila pang regular shooting except that they're not zoom lenses so my legs have to do the zooming :)

Wow those are nice pieces of glass :okay: I looked up for the prices, yung 50mm lang pala ang 4 digits :D

Your ISO is tooooo wide. hehe...Kaso dapat merong mas mababa...kahit 50 lang or maybe 25 (meron ba nun?).

Astig mag fireworks photoshoot di ba? Amazing ang results. Di kelangan maging masyadong crafty. Siguro papasok na lang yung craftiness dun sa kung pano ka kukuha ng photos and at the same time enjoy the show! :banana:
Tara, punta tayo sa Pyro Olympics this year!

isn't it the other way around? your smallest aperture is f/8 and the biggest is f/2.7? di ba bigger f/number = smaller aperture opening and smaller f/number = bigger aperture opening

Noted yung advice guys thanks... thats my first fireworks shots mabuti nalang me remote control yung cam medyo di ako nahirapan :)

isn't it the other way around? your smallest aperture is f/8 and the biggest is f/2.7? di ba bigger f/number = smaller aperture opening and smaller f/number = bigger aperture opening


Working on the manual setting on my camera here's what I've found out.

Lower F stop = more light coming in.

Higher F stop = less light coming in.


Lower ISO Setting = less grainy (finer pics) I guess if the lowest setting is available you might need to use a tripod.

Higher ISO Setting = grainy although when I take night shots around bright areas between 100 to 400 is ideal for point and shoot cams like mine, not as grainy. 800 or higher grainier pics and perhaps more noise.

A couple of nights ago I took some pics and the setting F2.8 with the ISO setting between 200 and 400. Pics are nearly the same in quality. Shutter speed 1/13 sec.

It is really ideal to use a tripod or a monopod when shooting at night and low lights but Im too lazy to lug around those 2 which I just purchased not long ago.

JB Photography (http://www.webshots.com/user/jbkayaker)

^^ speaking of tripods, mine is a hand-me-down from my Dad. first time i tried to use it was last Christmas... guess how i attached the camera onto the tripod... I turned the camera round and round to screw it in!! duh! :bash: :lol: now, i know better. my new year resolution is that i'm gonna be more diligent about using the tripod :)

hahaha...that was fun! the newer tripods now have removable base so you won't need the whole stuff when mounting your camera into the tripod.

Naiinis ako, I don't get the colors I want :lol: Kailangan ko pa siguro ng filters (UV, CPL)

Naiinis ako, I don't get the colors I want :lol: Kailangan ko pa siguro ng filters (UV, CPL)

On second thought, baka sa settings ko 'yun. What settings affect colors ba? :)

ano ba gusto mong color sinj? nasa settings nga lang malamang. try mo muna automatic settings. then play with shutter speed priority then aperture priority, before you go full manual.

share ko lang tong shoes photos ko...sa mga temples kasi sa BKK, mahilig sila magtanggal ng shoes bago pumasok....
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce26b3127ccebd0564be407000000036100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

Isa sa mga napakaraming temples
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce26b3127ccebd055d69811300000035100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

Wala nang ibang makuhang subject
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce26b3127ccebd0564bc407200000036100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

^^ speaking of tripods, mine is a hand-me-down from my Dad. first time i tried to use it was last Christmas... guess how i attached the camera onto the tripod... I turned the camera round and round to screw it in!! duh! :bash: :lol: now, i know better. my new year resolution is that i'm gonna be more diligent about using the tripod :)


The one I purchase has a pod/base that you can take off so it is definitely easier to use.

A couple of shots I took last Tuesday. Both original shots and none altered.

This particular shot was taken from inside the car with the engine running. We're on a red light waiting. Hand held camera and a bit soft caused by the vibration in the car and I would have wanted the blue light to be all lit up but anyway.....
http://www.photobucket.com/albums/v635/jbkayaker12/2007PICS/ny.jpg


Treasure Island sign was taken on the sidewalk of the Palazzo, hand held but I placed the camera on a ledge to keep it steady. I thought this one came out better than the NY NY sign. Zoomed a bit to get a closer shot.
http://www.photobucket.com/albums/v635/jbkayaker12/2007PICS/ti.jpg

JB Photography (http://www.webshots.com/user/jbkayaker)

http://images.gerald19.multiply.com/image/4/photos/37/500x500/21/IMG_1280.jpg?et=HuBYR09%2BUK1pmnoO029IKg&nmid=73408321

The best fireworks shot I have, from UST's Paskuhan.

Isa sa mga napakaraming temples
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce26b3127ccebd055d69811300000035100AZN2bJkzZOGPg


Wow, I like this shot. Very spiritual and mystical. Almost as if your nearing nirvana..:okay:

Isa sa mga napakaraming temples
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce26b3127ccebd055d69811300000035100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

OMG! this pic is just amazing...

nakaka inspire ang mga sinabi ni Ph Man kay sinj re:practicing photography, it really inspire amateur photographers like us.. :) glad to find this thread.. :)

like other folks out there, i'm a beginner when taking photos. this thread is all about teaching and learning on how to take photos in much better ways. i would really love to learn more techniques and i'm pretty sure some of you are also interested so i'd start w/ this:

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb141/starboard87/DSC05710.jpg
what should have i done w/ this photo?

Hmm, doesn't the Photography 101 thread share the same intention as this one?

EDIT: Sorry I didn't know that there is a photo in the post. Photobucket doesn't show up here :(

What is the purpose of your picture?. What were you trying to convey? I see sort of a Brain Coral in the picture but it was cut off. Perhaps next time try to focus on a particular subject on your photo. This shot at least as far as Im concerned does not have any particular subject which can capture the attention of the person observing it, you could have zoomed in on the Brain Coral on this particular shot.

Goodluck!

JB Photography (http://www.webshots.com/user/jbkayaker)

^^ hehe...ano nga yung sinabi ko? thanks for the compliments. saka di ka naman na amateur kaw talaga. hehehe...;)

bakit naman pala nearing nirvana @ terrapin. parang iba pumasok sa isip ko ah.

http://images.gerald19.multiply.com/image/4/photos/37/500x500/21/IMG_1280.jpg?et=HuBYR09%2BUK1pmnoO029IKg&nmid=73408321

The best fireworks shot I have, from UST's Paskuhan.

So Paskuhan is UST as Parolan is to UP, right? :) Ey Gerald, is something blocking the view or was it the timing? Pede pa to iimprove. :okay: Sama ka para makapag praktis tayo sa Pyro Olympics.

A couple of shots I took last Tuesday. Both original shots and none altered.

This particular shot was taken from inside the car with the engine running. We're on a red light waiting. Hand held camera and a bit soft caused by the vibration in the car and I would have wanted the blue light to be all lit up but anyway.....

Treasure Island sign was taken on the sidewalk of the Palazzo, hand held but I placed the camera on a ledge to keep it steady. I thought this one came out better than the NY NY sign. Zoomed a bit to get a closer shot.


This is what's exciting about photography. Di mo alam basta na lang *puff* mukhang maganda tong subject na to ah. Sabay hugot sa camera, aim then shoot. Then walk away hoping you got it framed nicely.

You have well-composed collection man...I've checked your photo site. :okay:

So Paskuhan is UST as Parolan is to UP, right? :) Ey Gerald, is something blocking the view or was it the timing? Pede pa to iimprove. :okay: Sama ka para makapag praktis tayo sa Pyro Olympics.

How did you know I'm Gerald? :lol:

Anyhoo, yeah, Lantern Parade 'yung sa UP. They always happen on same dates, daw. Next year, dun naman siguro ako. :D

Yeah, a tree blocked the view. Hindi ko kasi alam gagawin ko; if I was going to watch the fireworks or take photos. :)) Nakapila pa ako for food nung nag-start, haha.

Pyro Olympics? Kailan 'yun?

Gerald, your multiply link says Gerald, so I assume that's the former Gerald(TM). Hehe...Pyro Olympics will start off on Feb 16, for 5 Saturdays! Walang sinabi lahat ng fireworks shows na nakita na naten. hehe...:okay:

Ahh. Okie, HAHA. And you are/were??? :D

I'd love to go there, hindi ko pa kasi na-try makapunta sa Pyro Olympics eh, lagi na lang may sagabal. Sana ngayon wala na. Haha. Mga what time start nun? 'Di ako pwede pagabi masyado. :D

naku po, me curfew din pala to. hehe...8 pm and 9 pm. mukhang gabi na nga. ano naman yung sagabal dati?

I was Francis20. ;)

This is what's exciting about photography. Di mo alam basta na lang *puff* mukhang maganda tong subject na to ah. Sabay hugot sa camera, aim then shoot. Then walk away hoping you got it framed nicely.

You have well-composed collection man...I've checked your photo site. :okay:

Thanks, I took the shot from inside the car while waiting on a red light kaya I really did not have the time to get a couple of extra shots. Usually, I take two or three shots of the same subject because it's guaranteed there will be discrepancies on the pictures and I just pick the best one I like.


JB Photography (http://www.webshots.com/user/jbkayaker)

the big advantage of digital photography. shoot lang ng shoot then choose the best frame. as time goes by, you will have lesser practice shots and soon, we will learn how to shoot it right the first time. :D

How come these posts showed up at my end just now? ;)

like other folks out there, i'm a beginner when taking photos. this thread is all about teaching and learning on how to take photos in much better ways. i would really love to learn more techniques and i'm pretty sure some of you are also interested so i'd start w/ this:

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb141/starboard87/DSC05710.jpg
what should have i done w/ this photo?


oo Mond. daming gusto magcomment if you would solicit for one. hehe....
ano nga ba ang subject dito? di masyadong conspicuous. or is it the whole thing? again, you need not put your subject on the dead-center. you can put it anywhere on the first and third thirds of your frame. but be careful in doing so.

kung minsan, we want to take a vast subjects like beach with no particular subject. landscape nga eh (kulit ko ah)...what you can do here is put a very distinct object (can be a person) within your frame. we call this the ACCENT. this is not your subject, but works very well in enhancing your composition. :cheers:


What is the purpose of your picture?. What were you trying to convey? I see sort of a Brain Coral in the picture but it was cut off. Perhaps next time try to focus on a particular subject on your photo. This shot at least as far as Im concerned does not have any particular subject which can capture the attention of the person observing it, you could have zoomed in on the Brain Coral on this particular shot.

Goodluck!


there you go....:okay:
brain coral pala tawag dun, kaya mukhang brain. yay....hehehe....
me nakikitang akong parang gumagapang na black sa ibabaw ng corals. ano yun? i was thinking that could be the intended subject of mond.

belated happy new year all.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b74/paulkrps/sample176.jpg

naku po, me curfew din pala to. hehe...8 pm and 9 pm. mukhang gabi na nga. ano naman yung sagabal dati?

I was Francis20. ;)



Wow wow wow. Haha, pwede pa siguro 'yun. Tingnan ko na lang, matagal pa naman eh. Thanks sa invite.

hi sir Paul, were those taken from your DVO trip?

Gerald, maaga pa yan para sa pagtulog. ;)

Yes, sobrang aga pa niyan, pero baka wala na ako masakyan pauwi, if ever. :lol:

naisip ko nga lahat na lang tayo mag hire ng hotel room para mag get together, na dapat overlooking sa manila bay. heheheh....

WOWOW, bigtime. :D

hindi. hati hati naman tayo. pero ewan ko. baka indi mag agree yung iba. ako na lang magisa siguro. hehe...

hi sir Paul, were those taken from your DVO trip?

Gerald, maaga pa yan para sa pagtulog. ;)

yes sir, sa mati, davao oriental specifically.

yes sir, sa mati, davao oriental specifically.

nakabalik ka na ng Canada sir Paul?

yups sir ibex.

What is the purpose of your picture?. What were you trying to convey? I see sort of a Brain Coral in the picture but it was cut off. Perhaps next time try to focus on a particular subject on your photo. This shot at least as far as Im concerned does not have any particular subject which can capture the attention of the person observing it, you could have zoomed in on the Brain Coral on this particular shot.

Goodluck!

JB Photography (http://www.webshots.com/user/jbkayaker)

thanks! i was trying to focus on the black starfish in the photo!

How come these posts showed up at my end just now? ;)




oo Mond. daming gusto magcomment if you would solicit for one. hehe....
ano nga ba ang subject dito? di masyadong conspicuous. or is it the whole thing? again, you need not put your subject on the dead-center. you can put it anywhere on the first and third thirds of your frame. but be careful in doing so.

kung minsan, we want to take a vast subjects like beach with no particular subject. landscape nga eh (kulit ko ah)...what you can do here is put a very distinct object (can be a person) within your frame. we call this the ACCENT. this is not your subject, but works very well in enhancing your composition. :cheers:




there you go....:okay:
brain coral pala tawag dun, kaya mukhang brain. yay....hehehe....
me nakikitang akong parang gumagapang na black sa ibabaw ng corals. ano yun? i was thinking that could be the intended subject of mond.

u got me right! my intended subject ish the black shtarfish! Although, i'm not even sure if it was indeed a black shtarfish! thanks anyways...

sorry if i'm kinda demanding but is this photo just right?
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb141/starboard87/DSC05675.jpg
or does it still need some minor improvement?

thanks! i was trying to focus on the black starfish in the photo!


Hahaha, hindi ko napansin yong black starfish so I guess to answer your query once again, you could have zoomed in on the black starfish even more.

Goodluck!

JB Photography (http://www.webshots.com/user/jbkayaker)

sorry if i'm kinda demanding but is this photo just right?
or does it still need some minor improvement?

I would have cleaned the surrounding area first if I was the one taking the picture but that is just me, hahaha.

Here's how I would have framed your shot. I'll zoom on it since the area is not well kept.
http://www.photobucket.com/albums/v635/jbkayaker12/2007PICS/coco.jpg

JB Photography (http://www.webshots.com/user/jbkayaker)

yes, that'd be better! less distraction, the better. be simplistic, unless you want to shoot a landscape photo. :)

yes sir, sa mati, davao oriental specifically.
naku, di naten namalayan. sir paul came and went. hehehe...hope you enjoyed your vacation po! asan na ang beach photos natin? yung me mga tao ah...

naku, di naten namalayan. sir paul came and went. hehehe...hope you enjoyed your vacation po! asan na ang beach photos natin? yung me mga tao ah...

eto po sir.

dahican, mati, davao oriental

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b74/paulkrps/mati6.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b74/paulkrps/mati7.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b74/paulkrps/mati5.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b74/paulkrps/mati2.jpg

anybody knows what flower is this?

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b74/paulkrps/sample177.jpg

yay....very nice flower! parang yung nilalagay sa icing. unfortunately i dunno the name of that flower. it's my first time to see this kind!

mukhang hindi pa naddiscover ang beach! galing ng mga photos as usual! i like the first and last ones! :okay:

Welcome back Paul. Thank you for your glorious photographs. Excellent.


bakit naman pala nearing nirvana @ terrapin. parang iba pumasok sa isip ko ah.

@Ph Man - From Wikipedia on Nirvana - "There is a safe place in view of all, but difficult of approach, where there is no old age nor death, no pain nor disease. It is what is called Nirvâna, or freedom from pain, or perfection, which is in view of all; it is the safe, happy, and quiet place which the great sages reach. That is the eternal place, in view of all, but difficult of approach. Those sages who reach it are free from sorrows, they have put an end to the stream of existence".

Funny what a photograph can relay to person. Too deep ba? :lol:

^^^^^Just an observation and an unsolicited comment, beautiful seascapes but unfortunately overshadowed by a cluttered shoreline filled with rotten coconut husks and fronds. I would take a shot of the seascape without the shoreline or if I want to showcase the fallen coconut husks, I'll take a shot of the shoreline without the seascape.

the caption for this photo is: Castaway...
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb141/starboard87/castaway.jpg
is it alright? gusto ko rin kasing sumali sa FPC... i need honest comments po...

here's a good photo...
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb141/starboard87/butterfly.jpg
do i have to resize or crop this? pwede na ba sa FPC? sori for being demanding...

i took these shots yesterday afternoon. no PP. c & c welcome. the foregound isn't as interesting as a sandy shore of a beach or a bay side view but i like these nonetheless

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2227/2174266190_6190b298be.jpg?v=0

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2302/2173482205_fbe3bb79a7.jpg?v=0

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2082/2174273014_bcfe6c0a7b.jpg?v=0

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2083/2174604760_e50b625427.jpg?v=0

i took these shots yesterday afternoon. no PP. c & c welcome. the foregound isn't as interesting as a sandy shore of a beach or a bay side view but i like these nonetheless



The most important thing to remember when taking photos is that you have to like the shot you are making. It doesnt matter what other people think of your photos as long as you are happy with the outcome but keep in mind when you post your pictures online on a public forum, you are opening your work to criticisms so one cannot have an onion skin and be affected by what is being said.


JB Photography (http://www.webshots.com/user/jbkayaker)

How about the composition of this one? It seems like there's not much I can do since the hotel is already taking up the whole width of the frame?

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y195/aaron_ofngol/100_0570x.jpg

Damn, there's some dust on my camera's sensor :(

Many distractions on the photo so try to minimize it.

http://www.photobucket.com/albums/v635/jbkayaker12/2007PICS/MH.jpg

http://www.photobucket.com/albums/v635/jbkayaker12/2007PICS/MH1.jpg


JB Photography (http://www.webshots.com/user/jbkayaker12)

Damn, there's some dust on my camera's sensor :(

already? you sure it's in the sensor... maybe it's only in the mirror... not that hard to clean the sensor, it's in the instruction manual. you have to be really careful though

here's a good photo...
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb141/starboard87/butterfly.jpg
do i have to resize or crop this? pwede na ba sa FPC? sori for being demanding...

Yung butterfly ang subject mo right? Crop it. Kinakain ng background yung butterfly. Pag biglang tingin, di mo makikita agad.


http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2302/2173482205_fbe3bb79a7.jpg?v=0


This one is nice! :okay:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2302/2173482205_fbe3bb79a7.jpg?v=0

I just love this pics..hmmm.. can i suggest a title? firing squad... heheheh joke... but i really love it..;)

Yung butterfly ang subject mo right? Crop it. Kinakain ng background yung butterfly. Pag biglang tingin, di mo makikita agad.


actually, my caption for that is: Spot the butterflies! take note: the butterflies

already? you sure it's in the sensor... maybe it's only in the mirror... not that hard to clean the sensor, it's in the instruction manual. you have to be really careful though

I tried to look when I removed the lens. It's on the mirror pala.

what do you guys think of this?
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb141/starboard87/kaleidoscope_legazpi.jpg
Kaleidoscope Legazpi

^^i actually photoshopped the picture tht dx photoshopped... kaya doble-dobleng retoke na ang picture na yan... hehehe...

WILSON !!!!! :lol:

the caption for this photo is: Castaway...
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb141/starboard87/castaway.jpg
is it alright? gusto ko rin kasing sumali sa FPC... i need honest comments po...

^^^ :lol: Pero volleyball si wilson eh.

I was arguing with a friend (can't remember exactly) if Wilson was a soccer ball or volleyball. Hehe...Anyway...Monds, I think you need a new perspective on your Castaway photo. That angle is quite worn out, so you need to shoot it in new perspective, remove unnecessary distractions within your frame. Right timing for right lighting is also important. What about taking the shot at dawn, or dusk maybe? That'd add up more drama to your 'castaway' wilson! hehehe....:okay:

here's a good photo...
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb141/starboard87/butterfly.jpg
do i have to resize or crop this? pwede na ba sa FPC? sori for being demanding...

Monds, I can't see the subject either. But if you intend the audience to figure out where the butterflies are...then the caption should say so. ;)

i took these shots yesterday afternoon. no PP. c & c welcome. the foregound isn't as interesting as a sandy shore of a beach or a bay side view but i like these nonetheless

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2302/2173482205_fbe3bb79a7.jpg?v=0

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2082/2174273014_bcfe6c0a7b.jpg?v=0



these would be my favorites! they are so nice that i can't think of appropriate caption. hehehe...

How about the composition of this one? It seems like there's not much I can do since the hotel is already taking up the whole width of the frame?

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y195/aaron_ofngol/100_0570x.jpg

Aaron, I think you can improve this by moving back farther, then take the same shot again. The structure need not take up most of the area of your frame. Try including as much sky as possible. That is, if there are interesting cloud formations overhead.

^ Hi Kuya Francis. With even more photographers now, I hope we could have a repeat of the SSC Photography seminar (like in the first Photography 101 thread) :D

oo nga sinj. sino kaya pwedeng magseminar? dami nilang magagaling eh.i suggest we start right away with composition. :)

^ Yehey, I'd love that. :D Mas marami tayo ngayon so mas maraming makakapagparticipate, mas maraming photos, mas maraming matututunan :)

i agree... lets do it... :) :) :)

what about random suggestions guys? you just post your compositions with necessary captions; your styles on coming up with well-composed frames. :okay:

^ How about the newbies?

pwede ba to as my entry?
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j93/ragandacmichael/P1210477.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j93/ragandacmichael/P1210493.jpg

^^^Both horizons above are centered so for me it's a no-go.

Cut off some of the water part on the first picture. You have dramatic cloud formations in front of you so take 2/3's of it and the water 1/3. If you have strong enough zoom lens, the outrigger boats with the cloud formation could give you a nice picture. On the second picture, zoom on it and just do the same as well, 2/3's cloud formation and 1/3 water.


JB Photography (http://www.webshots.com/user/jbkayaker)

^ Hi JB, instead of including links to your Webshots page on your every post, why not put that on your signature instead? ;)

Can anyone comment on my shots??? no worries, need all your feedbacks and criticisms to improve.. ;)

day..
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/197/498021928_d5084174bc.jpg

night..
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2051/1826254781_5294517970.jpg

thanks...

^^ hehe...all the while i thought it was his sig.
@ rage@cebu, you must be trying to get half water, half sky on both photos. if you have interesting cloud formations, try including as much sky as possible - as JB said, try using the rule of thirds on your frames. That is, 2/3 sky, and 1/3 sea. you may include some interesting objects to serve as accent. For instance, people watching sunset, or perhaps a boat along the shore...etc. Try different perspective also. If you need to crawl to get a good one - then do so. Or if you need to climb up the coconut tree - pwede rin. Ingat lang baka mahulog ka. Sayang naman. Ang camera. :D

Can anyone comment on my shots??? no worries, need all your feedbacks and criticisms to improve.. ;)

day..
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/197/498021928_d5084174bc.jpg

night..
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2051/1826254781_5294517970.jpg

thanks...

kelangan mo pa ba ang comments namin? eh sobrang ok na nga mga photos mo eh...:cheers:

personal choice na lang...if i were to shoot the same subject (ano nga ba ang subject?)...i'd get higher perspective dun sa day shot. para kuha yung top view ng pool. me dagat ba sa malapit? sana kuha din sa frame, then include some of the blue sky.

sa night shot naman...i think i will use longer exposures with filters coupled with narrow aperture opening para di masyadong flooded with light. or did you do that already? then place the cam on ground level, and include some of the dark sky.

^^ hehe...all the while i thought it was his sig.
@ rage@cebu, you must be trying to get half water, half sky on both photos. if you have interesting cloud formations, try including as much sky as possible - as JB said, try using the rule of thirds on your frames. That is, 2/3 sky, and 1/3 sea. you may include some interesting objects to serve as accent. For instance, people watching sunset, or perhaps a boat along the shore...etc. Try different perspective also. If you need to crawl to get a good one - then do so. Or if you need to climb up the coconut tree - pwede rin. Ingat lang baka mahulog ka. Sayang naman. Ang camera. :D

Something like this prof? I waited a long time for that couple to get through to get that silhouette shot, but didn't need to climb the coconut tree.:lol:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2165/2180031591_77beca5dc5.jpg

@Ph .. thanks for the comment.. hehehe.. i remembered the first pic, i was just shooting the view, without thinking of any subject. :ohno: the sea was far away. You are right, i should have taken a higher vantage point.

as for the second pic, Sir what filter kaya ang best for that pic? as for the dark sky, i think my vantage point is too near to include part of the dark sky, since the subject is about 7 stories high. in this case, what is the best lens to use with same vantage point, to capture the pool and including the 7 stories bldg. with little dark sky?


thank you very much for your valuable comment sir Ph.

that one is very nice @ terrapin. (psst, di ako prof ah, kunwari lang to...:lol)
kaso i'm torn between the boat and the couple as your accent. very nice view there! san to? isa pa pala...since the couple are heading right, you should put more space on where they're heading to. you can put them at the left part of the frame. personal preference lang naman. natutunan ko lang sa lay-outing sa journalism class nung high school. hehe....wait isa pa ulit...parang overexposed yung frame. or did you use auto settings? there must be some interesting cloud formations at that time.

@Ph .. thanks for the comment.. hehehe.. i remembered the first pic, i was just shooting the view, without thinking of any subject. :ohno: the sea was far away. You are right, i should have taken a higher vantage point.

as for the second pic, Sir what filter kaya ang best for that pic? as for the dark sky, i think my vantage point is too near to include part of the dark sky, since the subject is about 7 stories high. in this case, what is the best lens to use with same vantage point, to capture the pool and including the 7 stories bldg. with little dark sky?


thank you very much for your valuable comment sir Ph.

i forgot what it is called. yung filter na ginagamit para hindi sabog yung lights ng mga lampposts...etc. i have one before, pero para lang sa SLR. You will come up with really nice starlights. Whatever they call it. Hehe...

shhh...walang sir dito. ;)
on your night photo, you can use wide-angle lens. no need to zoom in. so it won't make much difference if you are to use 50mm, 35mm or 28mm lens. But for landscapes, lens with shorter focal lengths are better (e.g., 28mm). That explains why you get cool landscape photos using point and shoot digicams. But for portraits, a 35 or 50mm lens would be ideal.

Anyway, 7-storey high pala yung structure. pano kaya? :ohno: bawasan naten ng height? :lol: pwede din partial na lang. get some reflection sa pool. wag masyadong matagal ang exposure, kasi baka magblur yung pool. sayang ang reflection.

ayan tuloy. dame ko sinabi. actually wala naman akong DSLR. kung anu ano sinasabi ko dito. si kumpareng S2 IS lang ang besfren naten after i gave my Minolta SLR to my father.

that one is very nice @ terrapin. (psst, di ako prof ah, kunwari lang to...:lol)
kaso i'm torn between the boat and the couple as your accent. very nice view there! san to? isa pa pala...since the couple are heading right, you should put more space on where they're heading to. you can put them at the left part of the frame. personal preference lang naman. natutunan ko lang sa lay-outing sa journalism class nung high school. hehe....wait isa pa ulit...parang overexposed yung frame. or did you use auto settings? there must be some interesting cloud formations at that time.

Salamat sir Prof, :banana::jk: sige @Ph Man na lang... Thanks for the comments. I'll keep them in mind when framing the shot. That is in Bohol looking at Cebu. I'm still in a Bohol state of mind. I used the manual settings for the shot, but tried stepping up and stepping down the settings and was not satisfied with the results. Either too dark or too bright. Will need more practice with sunsets. More the reason to go back.:lol:

yeah, thanks for your comment Ph, dami ko talaga ma learn dito... thanks for sharing your insights. learn a lot today.. :)

haha...ok lang yan for a starter. pwedeng Francis na lang?
guess what, when i've seen the symphony of light, i didn't know what settings to use pa. kaya puro auto settings natin. kaya kelangan bumalik sa HK. i think going back to Bohol is more difficult. pero gusto ko din pumunta dun. sana man lang me pera! :ohno:
for sunset photos, it's quite safe to use high shutter speeds. tipong 1/500 of sec especially if you are directly facing the sun. (para namang me iba pang paraan para kumuha ng sunset photo ano?) heehehe...

let me post something. para example. hanapin ko lang sa baul ng photos naten. ;)

yeah, thanks for your comment Ph, dami ko talaga ma learn dito... thanks for sharing your insights. learn a lot today.. :)

actually, you have those very nice baby feet shots @ weewit. i saved one of them sa pc ko. balak ko ipa print, then let you sign. pwede ba? i noticed that you really have this emotion translated to your frames. hmmm...cheers!!!

OK Francis:okay: I'll look for my comparison shots as well.

here are some dusk photos i got...

wala lang to ha...ako yang parang engot diyan. hahaha...buti na lang me self-timer.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce26b3127ccebdfed113e1c500000016100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

Baka na post ko na to dati...My workmate and her husband.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce26b3127ccebdfed143e19500000016100AZN2bJkzZOGPg
Ano kayang magandang caption dito?

Control Tower
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce26b3127ccebdfed28b20f400000015100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

Di naman kelangang laging me sun sa sunset photo di ba? :D
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce26b3127ccebdfed33d60da00000015100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

At di rin naman siguro laging naka landscape...
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce27b3127ccebdfed30f785c00000015100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

And some praktis sa watermarks...hehe...
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce27b3127ccebdfed282b97900000016100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

^^ Nice. I see what you mean with the proper exposure. What's the next topic for the class @Francis?

Can anyone comment on my shots??? no worries, need all your feedbacks and criticisms to improve.. ;)

day..
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/197/498021928_d5084174bc.jpg

night..
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2051/1826254781_5294517970.jpg

thanks...


This is my take on your pictures.
On the first shot, the lone umbrella on the left is in the way. I would have moved a little to the right and take the shot from this angle, the trees were cropped a bit so try not to crop the top of the trees.

On the second picture, the top of structure is cut off so I'd say next time take a picture or try not to cut off the top part of a structure, the pool area on this particular shot is not very interesting anyway. I would have taken a long shot or vertical shot on this particular scenario or totally just take a picture of the structure without the pool area if doing it on a wide shot or horizontally.


JB Photography (http://www.webshots.com/user/jbkayaker)

Control Tower
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce26b3127ccebdfed28b20f400000015100AZN2bJkzZOGPg


prof, how'd you take the shot of the sun like that??? did you use a graduated neutral density filter? it looks really nice.

Hi guys, can anyone comment on my shot below? Just took this not more than an hour ago. :) I need all your comments and criticisms to do better ;) Thanks!

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/3556/dsc0048copyog2.jpg

prof, how'd you take the shot of the sun like that??? did you use a graduated neutral density filter? it looks really nice.

Hi po. Di ka lang pala talaga pang real estate. Astig ka din sa photography. :okay:

Naka archive na yun original copy ko nung photo, sana makita ko yung settings. Pero no filter was used on that. Zoom lang ng konti. And the sun is about to set that time, kaya more or less, it looks like that already. I just added the control tower (Chek Lap Kok) para naman maging interesting ng konti. By the way, it was already past 7:00 pm then and the sun is still up. Siguro yung zooming effect lang ang nagpaganda dito. No effort on my side. hehe...The scene is already beautiful! We just have to put it to frames. But it doesn't take a pro to get that. Pwede sa P&S cam. :)

Hi guys, can anyone comment on my shot below? Just took this not more than an hour ago. :) I need all your comments and criticisms to do better ;) Thanks!

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/3556/dsc0048copyog2.jpg

can't think of any way to make this better Sinj. maybe because it's already good. pero imo, you should minimize the blurry part there. i think it's not neessary. you can crop some of the edges sa baba. then try to camouflage the lizard. hold it, i'll do the cropping myself...

Sinj, look at this...I dunno if it's better, but i would have done it this way....less distraction. para kitang kita si butiki! :okay:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8df28b3127cceb3dd8f091c8000000026100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

^ Salamat Kuya Francis. Yeah, it's definitely better :okay: If you're wondering, 'yang butiki na 'yan ay nasa loob ng ice cream tub na itinapon last Saturday pa. Pinahanap ko si yaya ng odd things para mapicturan ko and then nahalukay n'ya 'yan sa basurahan na may laman na butiki :lol:

hahahaha...wow sinj. your yaya has an unusual eye. can you recruit her to join Photo 101? hehe...just kidding. pinagod mo pa talaga yung tao. lam mo bang you can turn ordinary things into extraordinary subjects? no need to go far to do that. pwede kang magsimula sa bakuran niyo, then palayu nang palayo, hangga't dumating ka sa point na gusto mo nang magtravel abroad to take photos.

eto samples lang...
mga napagdiskitahan naten...
Celery ba to?
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce27b3127ccebdfeea0538d200000015100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

Papaya leaf
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce26b3127ccebdfeeaa320c000000016100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

Naku pacencia na nakalimutan ko pangalan ng halaman na to...
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce27b3127ccebdfeea9d384a00000016100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce27b3127ccebdfeeaaab94d00000016100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

Too much black, pero sige na din, para lang ma illustrate how can you make good shots out of ordinary stuff
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce27b3127ccebdfeea97384000000016100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

Hulaan niyo na lang kun ano to...:D
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce26b3127ccebdfeeac920aa00000016100AZN2bJkzZOGPg
mug na me tubig. tapos ginamitan ko ng red light galing sa lampshade. kaya yan...hehe...

harsh comments are very much welcome...:okay:

^ Nice samples! :okay: I don't have that strong eye pa :( Pero I have some indoor shots though. I have yet to upload them pa :)

[QUOTE=jbkayaker12;17592958]This is my take on your pictures.
On the first shot, the lone umbrella on the left is in the way. I would have moved a little to the right and take the shot from this angle, the trees were cropped a bit so try not to crop the top of the trees.

On the second picture, the top of structure is cut off so I'd say next time take a picture or try not to cut off the top part of a structure, the pool area on this particular shot is not very interesting anyway. I would have taken a long shot or vertical shot on this particular scenario or totally just take a picture of the structure without the pool area if doing it on a wide shot or horizontally.


thanks for your comment JB. :) i totally agree with you on the umbrella thing. hehehehe... as for the trees, its not cropped, but i should have shown the whole tree with a little sky, i would have been more interesting.

on the second pic, i totally agree with you and Ph. the structure would have been more interesting than the pool. heehehe

i've learned something again today, thanks to all the mentors for your comments. this thread is getting more interesting by the day. thanks again JB and Ph.. :)

c'mon, post here your beach shots @ weewit. i feel like going to the beach at this point of the year! yipee! Boracay tayo!

^ Nice samples! :okay: I don't have that strong eye pa :( Pero I have some indoor shots though. I have yet to upload them pa :)

thanks sinj. you need not have strong eye. :nuts:hehe...strong imagination siguro. :okay:

nice shots ph, parang asparagus yata ang first pic ah... :) if i have eyes like yours, my Sony will be my wife. :) ay.. di pala, pwede pala sila in harmony... hon, tonight, ikaw naman ang subject. :wink2: hehehehe

nice shots ph, parang asparagus yata ang first pic ah... :) if i have eyes like yours, my Sony will be my wife. :) ay.. di pala, pwede pala sila in harmony... hon, tonight, ikaw naman ang subject. :wink2: hehehehe

ahh oo, asparagus nga. thanks @ weewit (ano pala name po nila?) awkward ang tawagan sa nick eh.

your Sony will be your wife? hehe...malamang nung nabili niyo ang Sony niyo nagselos ang wifey niyo. hehehe....me mga ganun kasi. pero to make up...sige, siya muna subject. kahit paa naman niya ang kukuhanan mo. :D

hahahahaah... my name is Francis also, but since its a common name, call me Wit nalang. :) dont worry, ill take a pic of my wifey's feet with my signature for you. bwahahaha :rofl:

btw, i have caption for your pic of your workmate and hubby, "love, bahay natin..." refering to the floating boat by the sea.. :lol:

^^^Both horizons above are centered so for me it's a no-go.

Cut off some of the water part on the first picture. You have dramatic cloud formations in front of you so take 2/3's of it and the water 1/3. If you have strong enough zoom lens, the outrigger boats with the cloud formation could give you a nice picture. On the second picture, zoom on it and just do the same as well, 2/3's cloud formation and 1/3 water.


JB Photography (http://www.webshots.com/user/jbkayaker)

mahina ksi ang camera. nka digital zoom po yan. tsaka tinatamad ako mag.edit :)

Naku pacencia na nakalimutan ko pangalan ng halaman na to...
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce27b3127ccebdfeea9d384a00000016100AZN2bJkzZOGPg

Hulaan niyo na lang kun ano to...:D
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce26b3127ccebdfeeac920aa00000016100AZN2bJkzZOGPg
mug na me tubig. tapos ginamitan ko ng red light galing sa lampshade. kaya yan...hehe...

harsh comments are very much welcome...:okay:


i think that fern is called pakpak lawin. i like that last shot... baso ng tubig lang?!?! galeng ng imagination mo francis! hehe! :okay:

here are some of my "sa bahay lang" shots...


http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2402/1838019212_0d074c8488.jpg?v=0

banged up keys from too much practice when i was a kid?!? :lol: just kidding



what's inside the bag?
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2231/2045398691_fd108bce82.jpg?v=0

brownies from cupcakes by sonja

heto naman, i was torn between... "di naglisnis yung maid" or i should thank her for the photo-op :lol:


shaken, not stirred
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2153/2137231050_2bb1a5e66b.jpg?v=0

amazing thing about the spider web... di sya nadadala ng hangin!

galeng ng pics mo laquachera ah... i just cant imagine the keys, what part ba yan?? :dunno: love your shots talaga, do you have a flickr where i can view your shots?? :)

as for the last pic.. akala ko electric fan at first... hehehe web pala.. nice... :) :cheers:

^ I think nakahiga 'yung key. Nice photos indeed Ate Lauren :)

thanks guys! :)

keys ng piano yan... di va keys ang tawag sa pinipindot?


@weewit, yah i do... http://www.flickr.com/photos/laquacherra/

Akala ko key as in susi :lol:

pakpak lawin pala yun. thanks Ms Lauren.

heto naman, i was torn between... "di naglisnis yung maid" or i should thank her for the photo-op :lol:


shaken, not stirred
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2153/2137231050_2bb1a5e66b.jpg?v=0

amazing thing about the spider web... di sya nadadala ng hangin!

ang galing galing nito!!! panalo to sa FPC Ms Lauren! :okay: lam mo bang di lang yan ang amazing thing about spider web. if you use the web and spin it into a net na malake, it's said to be strong and tensile enough to stop a B747!!! can you believe that? Wonder of Creation!

I'll check your flicker pagdating ko sa house. I am thinking of resigning from my post, para mas maraming time sa Photography! wahehe...

Hi Wit, hindi tayo magkapangalan kuya, kasi Francisco ako. :D Some call me Kiko. Yung iba Franz or Cis. Yung isa Fren (sweet ano? ganda pa mandin nya)...Yung mga salbahe kong kainuman SIS ang tawag. Kaya bro naman tawag ko sa kanila. Malilintikan sila. :lol:

Thanks po pala in advance sa feet photo! ;)

^^ ei! lauren here :lol: cynch is my friend realtor manila :)

^^ Aww, I always have your names interchanged. Sorry po Ms Lauren. I have it corrected na. You are also into real-estate business right? Do you know of anyone who hires part time agent, who wants to do part time selling just for fun? :D

[RIGHT]

Hi Wit, hindi tayo magkapangalan kuya, kasi Francisco ako. :D Some call me Kiko. Yung iba Franz or Cis. Yung isa Fren (sweet ano? ganda pa mandin nya)...Yung mga salbahe kong kainuman SIS ang tawag. Kaya bro naman tawag ko sa kanila. Malilintikan sila. :lol:

Thanks po pala in advance sa feet photo! ;)

:rofl: and dont call me kuya... im still young..:bash:

Ms Lauren, nice pics ah... :) re the keys, i can now imagine.. :) nice...

[RIGHT]

:rofl: and dont call me kuya... im still young..:bash:

ok tol. :D wag mo akong tatawaging sis ah. hehe...

Wow. Great shots everyone and of course prof @Francis :) Some people here will need to register to "Photography 201" :lol:

^^ naku pag nangyari yan, kelangan na natin ng expert para maging mentor. :D Ibang level na yan! hehe...Pero indi ba dapat Photo 102 muna? ;)

Dapat simulan na 'yan agad :D

ang mga possible topics na natin diyan ay...

+ Black&White Photography
+ Portraits (though pwede ito sa basic)
+ Ewan ko dito...kung gusto niyo - Nude Photography - hala...patay na. Any willing model? Harhar...Me free Happy Kiddie meal ka sa Jollibee pag nagmodel ka dito. :D

OK ang mga subject na yan! Ibang level na nga kaya "201" hindi lang "102". Siguro madaming model volunteers from the Samahan threads..:lol::lol::lol:

hahaha...honestly di ko alam pano ihandle ang ganyang situation. pwede ba mga bata na lang ang kuhanan na nude, mga bagong panganak at wag mga grown-ups. katakot eh. baka sunggaban ka pa. patay na. tas naka video mode pala ang camera. haha...

ano???? may nude photography??? who will volunteer??? wag lang lalaki.. hahahaha

ikaw Wit. :lol:
me alam ako dito sa makati . me lessons sila ng photography. sila nagpprovide ng models. ewan ko kung me nudes. gurls ata. ewan ko kung me guys. some workmates who took up advanced photo lessons enrolled. di ko nga lang nakita mga photos nila. basic lang kasi nakuha ko. pero sa advance classes, me lesson dun on nude photography talaga. tas black and white, then yung pagdedevelop sa dark room. very affordable ang fees.