View Full Version : Victoria's home to the coolest of brewpubs


deasine
July 27th, 2008, 11:51 AM
Victoria's home to the coolest of brewpubs
Adam McDowell , Canwest News Service

A cool breeze blows in over the harbour to take over where the day's hot sun left off, and the evening quiet of the quasi-suburban waterside locale is broken only by the occasional float plane landing nearby.

A visitor to the second-floor deck of Spinnaker's Gastro Brewpub and Guesthouse is presented with a menu that boasts a wide range of beers brewed on the premises, plus many wines and local food suppliers. A pair of young men from Edmonton in town for a wedding have thirstily devoured their first round and now struggle to reorder two pints of the same -- if only they can remember the magic acronym. Was it EIC? IOP? EIEIO? The server calmly waits until they're done joking around before suggesting they're looking for the IPA, meaning India pale ale.
No beer-loving resident of Victoria would ever make such a mistake. The B.C. capital is probably the best place in Canada to order a local pint, and if you didn't know that already, it's probably because you won't often catch the locals boasting about their brews.

http://a123.g.akamai.net/f/123/12465/1d/media.canada.com/ec39df83-fe4a-4b86-8cf9-8fbd0bc59e03/victoria.brewpub.jpg?size=l
Selina Samodien welcomes customers to the Irish Times pub, one of Victoria's many excellent drinking establishments.
DEBRA BRASH/Victoria Times Colonist

The tranquil north shore of Victoria Harbour wouldn't appear to be an auspicious place to brew a revolution, yet brew one did, in the form of IPAs, hefeweizens and English-style bitters.

Spinnaker's is not only the oldest brewpub in the country, it also served as the catalyst for a Victoria brewing scene that comprises four such establishments in addition to a few microbreweries, notably the Lighthouse Brewing Company, Phillips Brewing Company and Vancouver Island Brewery. It's an impressive tally for a relatively small city (Greater Victoria's population is around 330,000).

What makes it such a lucky place for beer lovers to live?
"I guess Victoria is a small enough town that it's possible to influence public opinion. It doesn't take a lot of marketing dollars. People do your marketing for you," says Paul Hadfield, owner of Spinnaker's. He opened the brewpub in 1984 with two other investors and spent the first five years fretting, not about a lack of business, but rather how to prevent the bar from going over capacity.

"We have a strong, strong local following. I would even consider us a regulars' place," agrees Michael Davies, pub manager of Swans Suite Hotel across the water, which has been brewing its own beers under the Buckerfield's Brewery name for nearly 20 years. "If you don't have that strong local following, you're lost. They're the people who pay your bills in the wintertime."

Along the way, Victoria's drinkers have become as discerning as Brits and Bavarians when it comes to their beer, and brewers must up the ante to stay interesting. Swans offers beer-and-chocolate pairings, and Spinnaker's has been introducing more challenging brews, such as Belgian fruit beers.
"This is a very beer-savvy town," says Benjamin Schottle, the brewmaster of Hugo's Brewhouse and thus the man who dreamt up probably most avant garde beer in Victoria: the adventurously woody and spicy Super G Ginger and Ginseng Cream Ale.

Schottle, 37, represents a new generation of Victoria brewers (one that also includes Matt Phillips of Phillips Brewing, who learned the ropes at Spinnaker's).

Ten years ago, Schottle arrived in Victoria as a refugee from the dull destiny he would have faced as a biochemical engineer at any major brewery in his home province of Ontario. Nowadays the cheery brewmaster comes across as half mad scientist, half laid-back west coaster. Among the experiments fermenting among the copper vessels in Hugo's attic brewery is a not-available-to-the-public strawberry wheat beer with berry pulp floating in it. It's delicious.

© The Calgary Herald 2008


Source: The Calgary Hearld/CanWest

DrT
July 28th, 2008, 04:03 AM
I love that LOCAL and ART are becoming what people value.

Beermaking is artistry and craftsmanship, like other artists and "creative" classes that cities strive to attract.

Brewpubs fits Victoria's British heritage and they should capitalize on it.

DrT
August 1st, 2008, 03:02 AM
BTW, for anyone interested in beer, looks like an interesting show on The History channel on the tube.

Called The Works: Episode Beer.

Give me an hour...I'll make you a genius!" Join host Daniel H. Wilson as he takes us on a transformative journey that reveals the extraordinary in everyday things. Mankind's first recipe for beer, the most popular beverage on the planet, was carved in stone 10,000 years ago. Wilson sets out to find the secret to beer's allure. Find out how it's made and marketed and how new beers are invented and tested. Wilson even uncovers an ecological time bomb threatening to make beer an endangered species!

Rating: TV14

Running Time: 60 minutes