Ciudad Amurallada: Intramuros de Manila

[TheAvenger]

By Ambeth Ocampo

Inquirer
Last updated 01:21am (Mla time) 08/08/2007

Last July 31, the Feast of St. Ignatius of Loyola, I thought about the small school for boys they opened in 1859, which is now a university system based in Quezon City with faculties of law and business in Makati, and a medical school in Pasig. There are other Jesuit-run schools, also called Ateneo, in Bicol, Zamboanga and Davao, plus related schools named after the other Jesuit saint, Francis Xavier, in Greenhills and Cagayan de Oro.

One wonders if the founding fathers imagined that the boarding school they set up in Intramuros would develop into the institutions they are today. For many years, there have been plans to rebuild the old Ateneo in Intramuros, or at least the exterior part of it, so that we can imagine what the walled city was like before it was destroyed in the Battle for Manila in 1945. All we have left are the walls and, of course, San Agustin Church, now inscribed by Unesco as a World Heritage site.

What was Intramuros really like? One can get an idea by walking around the walls or, better still, one can read all the descriptions of Spanish Manila from the time it was founded in the 16th century to the time the Americans looked upon it as a quaint tourist attraction in its far-off colony.

Of the old Ateneo, there are people still alive who remember not only the school but also San Ignacio Church, which had marvelous wood carvings by Isabelo Tampingco, now gone except for a part of the coffered ceiling that is now displayed at the Ateneo de Manila University Rizal Library where students mistake it for a non-functioning door. The people who remember the pre-war Ateneo and San Ignacio Church, however, may not know about an older Jesuit church in Intramuros before the Jesuits were expelled from the Philippines in the 18th century. This Jesuit church was completed at the end of the 16th century and described by Jesuit chronicler Pedro Chirino in his work “Relacion de las islas Filipinas,” which is much cited and held with high regard by those reading early accounts of the Philippines, including Jose Rizal.

They did not have digital or film cameras at the time, so we must dig up architectural plans in Jesuit archives in Europe to know what the church looked like. Chirino was not a believer in false modesty and declared that the Jesuit church was the most beautiful in Spanish Manila. (Surely the other orders -- Dominicans, Augustinians and Franciscans -- would contest that.) The Jesuit church in Manila was patterned after the Gesu in Rome, “although much inferior.” Dedicated on the feast of Santa Ana in 1596, her image was installed in the church, as were the images of Saints Peter and Paul and, of course, the Virgin Mary, whose chapel was built on the Gospel, i.e. left, side of the church, just as it was in Rome. This image was so lavishly decorated it attracted many devotees, both Spaniards and indios.

What struck me was the tabernacle of molave made specially for the relics of the saints that arrived in Manila in 1595 from Rome. I presume these were first-class relics, that is, physical body parts of the saints. Second-class relics, like clothing worn by a saint or personal items he or she used, would not do for this church, more so third-class relics or pieces of cloth that have been rubbed or touched on a first-class relic like a femur or a skull.

Not many people today know that underneath a church altar should be a small piece of stone with four crosses carved on it and containing relics of saints, preferably martyrs, because an altar is not just a table where one celebrates Mass, it is also a tomb. This explains why priests kiss the table when they come in to celebrate Mass, an act that has become so mechanical that some of them kiss a table even if it does not contain relics.

This is a medieval topic worth many future columns, but what interests me in Chirino’s account of a six-day feast celebrated to honor these relics is the physical description of the reliquary:

“The tabernacle in which they now lie is constructed of an incorruptible wood, which they call molaui [molave or mulawin, to us]. Eight columns adorn it, four on each side forming a square, with their bases and pedestals, and at the top above the capitals, surements and fine architecture. Between these two sets of columns are five sections, well divided, two smaller ones on each side and a large one in the center, all of them very finely worked and proportioned, with beautifully carved doors, and with niches and recesses where the holy relics are fitted and decorously lodged. The exterior of this entire altar piece is colored black, partly its natural color (for it contains much ebony [that’s kamagong to us], which there abounds) and partly that of the varnish that imitates it, with gilded mouldings, edgings and flower-work and other ornamentation of gold and of ivory. The altar with its two shelves is at the base, on the level of the pedestals crowning the columns. Everything is secured with strong intricate locks and covered with two pairs of curtains, one pair of veil plaited with silk and gold, the other of very good damask with golden scallops and lacing.”

Surely all the other great churches were just as grand, but it is unfortunate that Intramuros lives today only in history and memory.

* * *

Comments are welcome at aocampo@ateneo.edu

[TheAvenger]

By Ambeth Ocampo

Inquirer
Last updated 01:21am (Mla time) 08/08/2007

Last July 31, the Feast of St. Ignatius of Loyola, I thought about the small school for boys they opened in 1859, which is now a university system based in Quezon City with faculties of law and business in Makati, and a medical school in Pasig. There are other Jesuit-run schools, also called Ateneo, in Bicol, Zamboanga and Davao, plus related schools named after the other Jesuit saint, Francis Xavier, in Greenhills and Cagayan de Oro.

One wonders if the founding fathers imagined that the boarding school they set up in Intramuros would develop into the institutions they are today. For many years, there have been plans to rebuild the old Ateneo in Intramuros, or at least the exterior part of it, so that we can imagine what the walled city was like before it was destroyed in the Battle for Manila in 1945. All we have left are the walls and, of course, San Agustin Church, now inscribed by Unesco as a World Heritage site.

What was Intramuros really like? One can get an idea by walking around the walls or, better still, one can read all the descriptions of Spanish Manila from the time it was founded in the 16th century to the time the Americans looked upon it as a quaint tourist attraction in its far-off colony.

Of the old Ateneo, there are people still alive who remember not only the school but also San Ignacio Church, which had marvelous wood carvings by Isabelo Tampingco, now gone except for a part of the coffered ceiling that is now displayed at the Ateneo de Manila University Rizal Library where students mistake it for a non-functioning door. The people who remember the pre-war Ateneo and San Ignacio Church, however, may not know about an older Jesuit church in Intramuros before the Jesuits were expelled from the Philippines in the 18th century. This Jesuit church was completed at the end of the 16th century and described by Jesuit chronicler Pedro Chirino in his work “Relacion de las islas Filipinas,” which is much cited and held with high regard by those reading early accounts of the Philippines, including Jose Rizal.

They did not have digital or film cameras at the time, so we must dig up architectural plans in Jesuit archives in Europe to know what the church looked like. Chirino was not a believer in false modesty and declared that the Jesuit church was the most beautiful in Spanish Manila. (Surely the other orders -- Dominicans, Augustinians and Franciscans -- would contest that.) The Jesuit church in Manila was patterned after the Gesu in Rome, “although much inferior.” Dedicated on the feast of Santa Ana in 1596, her image was installed in the church, as were the images of Saints Peter and Paul and, of course, the Virgin Mary, whose chapel was built on the Gospel, i.e. left, side of the church, just as it was in Rome. This image was so lavishly decorated it attracted many devotees, both Spaniards and indios.

What struck me was the tabernacle of molave made specially for the relics of the saints that arrived in Manila in 1595 from Rome. I presume these were first-class relics, that is, physical body parts of the saints. Second-class relics, like clothing worn by a saint or personal items he or she used, would not do for this church, more so third-class relics or pieces of cloth that have been rubbed or touched on a first-class relic like a femur or a skull.

Not many people today know that underneath a church altar should be a small piece of stone with four crosses carved on it and containing relics of saints, preferably martyrs, because an altar is not just a table where one celebrates Mass, it is also a tomb. This explains why priests kiss the table when they come in to celebrate Mass, an act that has become so mechanical that some of them kiss a table even if it does not contain relics.

This is a medieval topic worth many future columns, but what interests me in Chirino’s account of a six-day feast celebrated to honor these relics is the physical description of the reliquary:

“The tabernacle in which they now lie is constructed of an incorruptible wood, which they call molaui [molave or mulawin, to us]. Eight columns adorn it, four on each side forming a square, with their bases and pedestals, and at the top above the capitals, surements and fine architecture. Between these two sets of columns are five sections, well divided, two smaller ones on each side and a large one in the center, all of them very finely worked and proportioned, with beautifully carved doors, and with niches and recesses where the holy relics are fitted and decorously lodged. The exterior of this entire altar piece is colored black, partly its natural color (for it contains much ebony [that’s kamagong to us], which there abounds) and partly that of the varnish that imitates it, with gilded mouldings, edgings and flower-work and other ornamentation of gold and of ivory. The altar with its two shelves is at the base, on the level of the pedestals crowning the columns. Everything is secured with strong intricate locks and covered with two pairs of curtains, one pair of veil plaited with silk and gold, the other of very good damask with golden scallops and lacing.”

Surely all the other great churches were just as grand, but it is unfortunate that Intramuros lives today only in history and memory.

* * *

Comments are welcome at aocampo@ateneo.edu

[overtureph]

Plaza Roma with a view of the Palacio del Gobernador















Photos by overtureph.

[overtureph]

Plaza Roma with a view of the Palacio del Gobernador















Photos by overtureph.

[death327]

Intramuros Tour (photos by soulmaker27) - Batch I

San Agustin Church

[death327]

Intramuros Tour (photos by soulmaker27) - Batch I

San Agustin Church

[overtureph]

[overtureph]

[death327]

San Agustin Pa rin

[death327]

San Agustin Pa rin

[death327]

[death327]

[Animo]

By Roderick T. dela Cruz (Manila Standard)

The year-round activities that made Intramuros abuzz with life are returning.

In a statement, the Department of Tourism indicated that the Walled City’s revival has taken the cue from Senator Richard Gordon, who had observed that his WOW! Philippines program was not being sustained.

As former tourism secretary, Gordon introduced cultural performances and regional festivals and exhibits in Intramuros which was built on 160 acres of land along the Pasig River.

The revitalized campaign set to kick off in the fourth quarter will show the various facets of Intramuros—from history to culture, as well as trade crafts during the glory days of the fortress.

When finalized, the concept will be marketed and promoted among stakeholders of the tourism industry, it added.

Tourism Secretary Joseph Ace Durano said Intramuros would be positioned as a one-stop destination, offering an experience of what life was like during the Spanish era.

Filipino products and souvenir items would be available for sale to visitors.

“Intramuros is an ideal and natural setting to highlight the country’s history and culture during the colonial period. We want to create a substantial and more comprehensive offering for local and foreign tourists, giving them an experience beyond the usual,” Durano said.

“We will preserve Intramuros’ historical integrity, restoring identified areas while enhancing the overall appreciation of guests who visit Intramuros any time and day of the week.”

The project, he said, would line up walking tours, day trips, pocket and staged cultural performances at certain times of the day, culinary shops, craft and antique boutiques, among other highlights.

“Anything we do, whether planning, development and promotion will always consider the preservation and protection of Intramuros as a national landmark and the country’s pride,” Durano said.

The revival dovetails into the Pasig River ferry system which has planned to open a terminal at Intramuros, expanding its accessibility as a cultural destination.

[Animo]

By Roderick T. dela Cruz (Manila Standard)

The year-round activities that made Intramuros abuzz with life are returning.

In a statement, the Department of Tourism indicated that the Walled City’s revival has taken the cue from Senator Richard Gordon, who had observed that his WOW! Philippines program was not being sustained.

As former tourism secretary, Gordon introduced cultural performances and regional festivals and exhibits in Intramuros which was built on 160 acres of land along the Pasig River.

The revitalized campaign set to kick off in the fourth quarter will show the various facets of Intramuros—from history to culture, as well as trade crafts during the glory days of the fortress.

When finalized, the concept will be marketed and promoted among stakeholders of the tourism industry, it added.

Tourism Secretary Joseph Ace Durano said Intramuros would be positioned as a one-stop destination, offering an experience of what life was like during the Spanish era.

Filipino products and souvenir items would be available for sale to visitors.

“Intramuros is an ideal and natural setting to highlight the country’s history and culture during the colonial period. We want to create a substantial and more comprehensive offering for local and foreign tourists, giving them an experience beyond the usual,” Durano said.

“We will preserve Intramuros’ historical integrity, restoring identified areas while enhancing the overall appreciation of guests who visit Intramuros any time and day of the week.”

The project, he said, would line up walking tours, day trips, pocket and staged cultural performances at certain times of the day, culinary shops, craft and antique boutiques, among other highlights.

“Anything we do, whether planning, development and promotion will always consider the preservation and protection of Intramuros as a national landmark and the country’s pride,” Durano said.

The revival dovetails into the Pasig River ferry system which has planned to open a terminal at Intramuros, expanding its accessibility as a cultural destination.

[Pinoy_ako]

Originally Posted by overtureph

I think the only Philippine president who really knew the importance of Intramuros and did something about it, would be Pres. Marcos. It was under him that most of the restoration and conservation work was undertaken. It was also him who established the Intramuros Administration under Presidential Decree 1616.

And the best administrator of the IA was Jaime Laya. It was under him that the first policies of reconstruction, restoration, and urban planning was implemented. He also added to the collection of several artifacts that we have now in Intramuros. It was fortunate that he was a passionate collector of Filipiniana items. It was also under him that the Central Bank expanded or begun it's collection. Several books related to Intramuros and Filipiniana items where also published under his term.

I believe the above facts are often overlooked.

It was during this time that Taal, Vigan and Manila were proposed for inclusion to the World Heritage Site. Only Vigan's proposal was updated later.

[Pinoy_ako]

Originally Posted by overtureph

I think the only Philippine president who really knew the importance of Intramuros and did something about it, would be Pres. Marcos. It was under him that most of the restoration and conservation work was undertaken. It was also him who established the Intramuros Administration under Presidential Decree 1616.

And the best administrator of the IA was Jaime Laya. It was under him that the first policies of reconstruction, restoration, and urban planning was implemented. He also added to the collection of several artifacts that we have now in Intramuros. It was fortunate that he was a passionate collector of Filipiniana items. It was also under him that the Central Bank expanded or begun it's collection. Several books related to Intramuros and Filipiniana items where also published under his term.

I believe the above facts are often overlooked.

It was during this time that Taal, Vigan and Manila were proposed for inclusion to the World Heritage Site. Only Vigan's proposal was updated later.

[plmetzen]

Hey lads I dunno if this is a great thing for Intramuros or is the street even near the important buildings of Intramuros, but post away your opinions. I guess reopening a street unclogs roads but then again I dunno, I don't live there :0

Lim Reopens Intramuros Street
By Allison Lopez
Inquirer
Last updated 00:23am (Mla time) 08/17/2007


MANILA, Philippines – Manila Mayor Alfredo Lim said convenience should come before cost, as he reopened yesterday Muelle del Rio Street in Intramuros to vehicular traffic.

Scrapping yet another project of his predecessor, Lim said: “It’s not true that just because it is his (former Mayor Lito Atienza) project, sisirain natin. We change for the better.”

The mayor cut the ribbon during the formal opening at 11 a.m. of the six-meter wide and 200-meter long road that was previously paved with bricks.

Drivers, he said, complained of heavy traffic on Jones Bridge and Paredes Streets as a result of Muelle del Rio’s closure.

Lim ordered the City Engineer’s Office to remove carefully the tiles for reuse, as was done in Avenida Rizal in Sta. Cruz.

“This will be a two-way street so those coming from the South Harbor can also pass here,” said the mayor. He expected traffic conditions in front of nearby Bureau of Immigration to improve. Manila City Hall Police Office chief Col. Alex Gutierrez said drivers going to and from the South Harbor to Divisoria, Malanday, Pag-Asa, Kamuning and Monumento would now have an easier time.

A stretch of Muelle del Rio that was turned into a promenade along Pasig River became a haven of so-called “rugby boys” and petty criminals, he said.

Lim stressed that the tiled pedestrian sidewalk, waiting shed and lampposts would remain.

“I will not touch Plaza Miranda. When you change something you get a lot of reactions. Have I done anything for the better or for the worse? Ask the drivers,” he said.

The new traffic situation, Lim said, would produce a chain reaction and benefit motorists going to Intramuros and Binondo.

The mayor said his street-clearing campaign would cover Zobel Roxas in San Andres Bukid, from South Superhighway to Pasig Line. He noted that basketball courts and shanties had been set up in the middle of the road. Recto, near Divisoria, would also be cleared of vendors, he added.

Meanwhile, Lim refuted claims that the Baywalk strip would lose the tourist crowd because of the dismantling of “fun” establishments in the area. Lim’s demolition order was criticized for causing the loss of jobs and income for the city.

“Many lauded our move, saying that getting rid of the obstructions was a good idea. Let’s see if the tourists stay away,” he said.

http://newsinfo.inquirer.net/inquire...ticle_id=83064

[plmetzen]

Hey lads I dunno if this is a great thing for Intramuros or is the street even near the important buildings of Intramuros, but post away your opinions. I guess reopening a street unclogs roads but then again I dunno, I don't live there :0

Lim Reopens Intramuros Street
By Allison Lopez
Inquirer
Last updated 00:23am (Mla time) 08/17/2007


MANILA, Philippines – Manila Mayor Alfredo Lim said convenience should come before cost, as he reopened yesterday Muelle del Rio Street in Intramuros to vehicular traffic.

Scrapping yet another project of his predecessor, Lim said: “It’s not true that just because it is his (former Mayor Lito Atienza) project, sisirain natin. We change for the better.”

The mayor cut the ribbon during the formal opening at 11 a.m. of the six-meter wide and 200-meter long road that was previously paved with bricks.

Drivers, he said, complained of heavy traffic on Jones Bridge and Paredes Streets as a result of Muelle del Rio’s closure.

Lim ordered the City Engineer’s Office to remove carefully the tiles for reuse, as was done in Avenida Rizal in Sta. Cruz.

“This will be a two-way street so those coming from the South Harbor can also pass here,” said the mayor. He expected traffic conditions in front of nearby Bureau of Immigration to improve. Manila City Hall Police Office chief Col. Alex Gutierrez said drivers going to and from the South Harbor to Divisoria, Malanday, Pag-Asa, Kamuning and Monumento would now have an easier time.

A stretch of Muelle del Rio that was turned into a promenade along Pasig River became a haven of so-called “rugby boys” and petty criminals, he said.

Lim stressed that the tiled pedestrian sidewalk, waiting shed and lampposts would remain.

“I will not touch Plaza Miranda. When you change something you get a lot of reactions. Have I done anything for the better or for the worse? Ask the drivers,” he said.

The new traffic situation, Lim said, would produce a chain reaction and benefit motorists going to Intramuros and Binondo.

The mayor said his street-clearing campaign would cover Zobel Roxas in San Andres Bukid, from South Superhighway to Pasig Line. He noted that basketball courts and shanties had been set up in the middle of the road. Recto, near Divisoria, would also be cleared of vendors, he added.

Meanwhile, Lim refuted claims that the Baywalk strip would lose the tourist crowd because of the dismantling of “fun” establishments in the area. Lim’s demolition order was criticized for causing the loss of jobs and income for the city.

“Many lauded our move, saying that getting rid of the obstructions was a good idea. Let’s see if the tourists stay away,” he said.

http://newsinfo.inquirer.net/inquire...ticle_id=83064

[Wonderboy]

I believe there's nothing wrong with reopening Calle Muelle del Rio. That used to be a road anyway.

Lim focuses on functionality. A particular area's purpose is retained as much as possible. He believes that a street or an avenue for instance, should remain a road and never a promenade.

Although some parts of Manila has been cleared to give way to motorists, a bold move on the other hand, such as dismantling the bars in Baywalk lacks planning. Again, Manila City Hall is ill-equipped with the capability to foresee the long term effect of such decision. I passed by the Baywalk last weekend and the area has become dim and sullen. I'm afraid the area will soon be infested by robbers and criminals in a few weeks time.

[Wonderboy]

I believe there's nothing wrong with reopening Calle Muelle del Rio. That used to be a road anyway.

Lim focuses on functionality. A particular area's purpose is retained as much as possible. He believes that a street or an avenue for instance, should remain a road and never a promenade.

Although some parts of Manila has been cleared to give way to motorists, a bold move on the other hand, such as dismantling the bars in Baywalk lacks planning. Again, Manila City Hall is ill-equipped with the capability to foresee the long term effect of such decision. I passed by the Baywalk last weekend and the area has become dim and sullen. I'm afraid the area will soon be infested by robbers and criminals in a few weeks time.