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Old August 25th, 2013, 03:40 PM   #41
Taller, Better
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Nice photos of Toronto, at what time at night did you shoot those photos?
The waterfront photos I took during and just after sunset which is after 9pm our time in the summer. There is a short period of about 5 to 8 minutes just after sunset when the sky will appear brilliantly blue in photos; they call that "The Blue Hour". The photo of the Flatiron Building I took at around 11pm.
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Old August 26th, 2013, 09:33 AM   #42
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Brussels.be: Parc du Cinquantenaire

Pity the red trails are not as many as the white ones. Also, trying to remove color casts from a multitude of purple and blu light at the tunnel entrance truly was my worst nightmare.

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taken by me with Canon 50D + Canon 55-250 IS f/4-5.6
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Old August 26th, 2013, 10:38 PM   #43
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^ Sharpness and clarity seems really high in that photo. Though composition is good.
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Old August 26th, 2013, 11:00 PM   #44
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^ Sharpness and clarity seems really high in that photo. Though composition is good.
Yep, was one of my first hdr and at that time they had to be "punchy"
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Old August 26th, 2013, 11:47 PM   #45
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Not fond of the HDR look but I like the lens flares on the city lanterns
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Old August 27th, 2013, 09:49 AM   #46
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Brussels.be: Mont des Arts by Night

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taken by me with Canon EOS 50D + Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 f/11 lens.
These photos, in the present size and resolution, can be used freely under CC Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike license . For other uses you can contact me at auggiewrenphotography_AT_gmail.com
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Old August 27th, 2013, 10:47 PM   #47
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Not fond of the HDR look but I like the lens flares on the city lanterns

Aren't almost all of your photos HDR (multiple exposures)....
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Old August 27th, 2013, 11:00 PM   #48
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Guys one problem I'm encountering when doing long exposure shots at night is when I set the camera to 10" or 15" exposure time and set the F stop to F/11 my camera meter shows the photo is overexposed or too bright. So then I have to boost the F stop to F/22 or F/24 to bring down the exposure meter.

I was shooting in a street with street lights and store lights, trying to catch light trails of cars. What can I do to make the exposure meter balance at the center?
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Old August 27th, 2013, 11:05 PM   #49
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My meter goes too bright, but on my camera the bright + is on the right side of the scale.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 11:07 PM   #50
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Guys one problem I'm encountering when doing long exposure shots at night is when I set the camera to 10" or 15" exposure time and set the F stop to F/11 my camera meter shows the photo is overexposed or too bright. So then I have to boost the F stop to F/22 or F/24 to bring down the exposure meter.

I was shooting in a street with street lights and store lights, trying to catch light trails of cars. What can I do to make the exposure meter balance at the center?
I set the iso 100, the aperture and then i bracket. I try to meter in a neutral zone and eventualli recompose. If you have it, you can try the spot meter, but for me the standard or center weighted exposition works. But, as i said, i do mostly hdr so ...
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Old August 27th, 2013, 11:09 PM   #51
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My meter goes too bright, but on my camera the bright + is on the right side of the scale.
Nikon (photo) vs canon. Canon goes - 0 +, nikon + 0 -
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Old August 27th, 2013, 11:14 PM   #52
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Aren't almost all of your photos HDR (multiple exposures)....
Oh well, multiple exposures can be combined in many ways to create over contrasted over saturate image, gritty, punchy, or well balanced and detailed images. I assume he didn't like my PP and the look of the final hdr image. That was one of the first hdr i did and, honestly, he has a point.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 11:15 PM   #53
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I set the iso 100, the aperture and then i bracket. I try to meter in a neutral zone and eventualli recompose. If you have it, you can try the spot meter, but for me the standard or center weighted exposition works. But, as i said, i do mostly hdr so ...

I set the ISO as low it will let me I think it was ISO 100 or ISO 200 in manual. I set the meter to matrix to photograph the scene. I then tried setting the exposure contrast to like -1 hoping it would make the picture exposure meter center--that didn't help.

By the way I was using the kit lens 18-55mm. I also tried angling the lens downwards so less street lights would come in the lens view, that helped a little in some situations...


PS I will upload a few test shots soon...
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Old August 27th, 2013, 11:21 PM   #54
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UmarPK i believe night street photography need multiple exposures: lights are too bright, street to dark. Sometimes i have to underexpose -4 in camera and more in PP to get the street lights right, or just ok. And overexpose +2 or more to have enough details in the shadows. Remember that in PP it is better to make darker a bright area then bright a dark area to control the noise.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 11:31 PM   #55
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UmarPK i believe night street photography need multiple exposures: lights are too bright, street to dark. Sometimes i have to underexpose -4 in camera and more in PP to get the street lights right, or just ok. And overexpose +2 or more to have enough details in the shadows. Remember that in PP it is better to make darker a bright area then bright a dark area to control the noise.
Ok I guess I will try multiple exposures, I normally try to do it 1 exposure that's how pro I am...


Raw Test shot No Editing at all.

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LETest1 (1 of 1) by UmarPK, on Flickr


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LETest2 (1 of 1) by UmarPK, on Flickr
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Old August 27th, 2013, 11:42 PM   #56
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you can totally us those files. You can process your raw multiple tome with different exposeres vale and then combine them or use brushes mask and graduated filters in lightroom or photoshp.

Ah, anyway if u want avoid taking several exposures then use the histogram to evaluate the exposition and try to have the brighter image without burning the highlights
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Old September 1st, 2013, 12:00 PM   #57
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The library of Birmingham

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