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Old June 1st, 2017, 01:37 AM   #1
stevekeiretsu
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Lisbon

I recently went to Lisbon for six nights.

It was a somewhat unsuccessful trip, if I'm honest; mostly my own fault as inadequate research and last-minute booking led to me sleep deprived in a noisy hotel, and I struggled to photographically perambulate as ambitiously as I normally do, given the very hot weather and steep hills. So I should really have more, better photos than I do. But everything I did manage to see was fantastic, and a handful of my photos came out pretty nicely. I definitely want to go back and do it again properly some time.

Arrival

Moments like this are why I always book a window seat. A sight of Europe's longest bridge, the Ponte Vasco da Gama:


Ponte Vasco da Gama by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr

You can actually see Lisbon airport below that, but first we looped right around the Tagus estuary, to land from the other direction. Snapping the Lisbon-area coastline proved to be fortuitous as I ended up visiting Carcavelos beach, seen left of centre in the first shot:


Aerial Lisbon metro area coast (Parede, Carcavelos, Oeiras) by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Costa da Caparica (aerial) by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr

Then we descended over the historic Aqueduto das Águas Livres, which I also visited later in the week:


Aqueduto das Águas Livres from the air by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Aqueduto das Águas Livres from the air by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr

Then some glimpses of Lisbon's more modern urbanity as we came in to land.


Aerial Lisbon (Benfica stadium) by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Aerial Lisbon by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Aerial Lisbon (Sporting stadium) by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Aerial Lisbon by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr

I do love an airport with a metro/rail link. A sign of a first-class city in my experience.


Metro entrance (Aeroporto) by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Metro entrance (Aeroporto) by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr

Arriving at my hotel. Nice view.


Balcony view (Rua Dom Pedro V) by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Balcony view (Rua Dom Pedro V) by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr
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Old June 1st, 2017, 01:43 AM   #2
stevekeiretsu
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Bairro Alto

I was staying in the Bairro Alto or "Upper District" which as the name suggests is on top of a (rather steep) hill. This affords some excellent views, such as these down streets:


Calçada Eng. Miguel Pais by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


R. São Marçal by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


R. Cecílio de Sousa by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Calçada Eng. Miguel Pais (zoom) by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr
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Old June 1st, 2017, 01:51 AM   #3
stevekeiretsu
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And the views from the splendid Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, just down the road from my hotel. I hung out here most nights, reading my book and enjoying an ice cold beer sold by a nice roving Indian chap who used to live in Hounslow (said he much prefers Lisbon, heh). A lively place well past midnight, the lower deck where local teens drank, smoked and snogged, on the upper deck fado buskers serenading tourists. I really should have taken better photos in better light, but I took these on the first day then didnt take any more thinking I'd only overload myself with repetition.


Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Castelo de São Jorge from Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Lisbon Cathedral from Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr
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Old June 1st, 2017, 01:59 AM   #4
stevekeiretsu
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Around Bairro Alto by day


Purple trees / Rua Dom Pedro V by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Rua Dom Pedro V by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Tv. Guilherme Cossoul by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Bairro Alto by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Ascensor da Bica by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Bairro Alto by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr
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Old June 1st, 2017, 02:05 AM   #5
stevekeiretsu
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Golden hour, sunset, dusk and night in Bairro Alto


Golden hour at Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Golden hour on Praça do Príncipe Real by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Golden hour on Rua do Loreto by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Golden hour on Calçada do Combro by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Rua do Sol a Santa Catarina by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


R. Fernandes Tomás by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Miradouro de Santa Catarina by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Bairro Alto backstreet at dusk by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Bairro Alto clock by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr

The area is very lively with nightlife which I totally failed to capture.
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Old June 1st, 2017, 02:11 AM   #6
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Graffiti in Bairro Alto


MUL / DITO by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Graf on R. João Pereira da Rosa by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


SOTE by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


DITO by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


GIF by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


FUP by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


DITO by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Tn (!?) / DITO by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


War on buff: Writers 1 - 0 CML by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr
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Old June 1st, 2017, 02:30 AM   #7
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Elevador da Glória

From near Bairro Alto's summit it's a very short walk down Calçada da Glória to Baixa, the "Lower Town" or effectively "downtown". But it's rather more taxing walk up. Hence the Elevador da Glória was born. You can pay tourist silly money with cash, or a more reasonable amount from your metro smartcard, so it took it many times when feeling lazy, though slogged up on foot a few times too.


Elevador da Glória by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr

There are boards set up here for legal grafiti / street art:


Legal graffiti on Calçada da Glória by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Legal graffiti by Calçada da Glória by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Legal graffiti by Calçada da Glória by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr

Not that that stops the walls and vehicles from being painted:


Elevador da Glória by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


ASTER by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Graffiti by Calçada da Glória by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Graf / street art on Calçada da Glória by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Street art on Calçada da Glória by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr
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Old June 1st, 2017, 03:04 AM   #8
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Baixa

The elevador drops you into Restauradores:


Praça dos Restauradores by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr

Immediately you can see from the scale of this square that we are dealing with a very different urban character here, a grand, planned, Enlightenment city. It is also known as the Baixa Pombalina after the Marquess of Pombal, who was prime minister in the period after the 1755 earthquake flattened most of Lisbon, and who took the lead in rebuilding the city according to this ambitious and orderly plan, with its grid system of wide streets, quasi-uniform facades of the earthquake-resistant Pombaline style buildings, and large squares, dazzlingly crisp and white, furnished with epic civic monuments and institutions.


Teatro Nacional / Praça Dom Pedro IV by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Looking down into Praça Dom Pedro IV by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Fountain, Praça Dom Pedro IV by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Rossio station by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr

I really wish I'd got a daytime shot of Rossio station, it's simply one of the most glorious facades I've ever seen.


Rua da Prata by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Rua da Conceição by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Fado & Wine by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


I know the feeling by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


A grand bank by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr

This all culminates as you walk through the Rua Augusta Arch and into the Praça do Comércio, overlooked by the castle, where Baixa meets the river.


Rua Augusta by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Praça do Comércio by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Praça do Comércio by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Lisbon beach / 25 de Abril bridge by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Triangle shadows by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr
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Last edited by stevekeiretsu; June 1st, 2017 at 03:35 AM.
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Old June 1st, 2017, 03:33 AM   #9
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Baixa is linked with the Chiado district via a double-ended Metro station:


Baixa-Chiado Metro station by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr

And the Elevador de Santa Justa. From 1902. I didnt go on, the queues were big, I wish I had found time though.


Elevador de Santa Justa by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Elevador de Santa Justa by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Elevador de Santa Justa by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Elevador de Santa Justa by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


View from Convento do Carmo by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr

(It takes you to the Convento do Carmo, whose ruins were preserved in memory of the 1755 earthquake, and which I wanted to see but was unexpected closed at short notice for the exact days I was present and available to do so. See what I mean about it being a partly unsuccessful trip...)
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Old June 1st, 2017, 03:48 AM   #10
stevekeiretsu
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Chiado

Chiado lies mid-way between Baixa and Barrio Alto in both a literal geographic sense and also in terms of urban and architectural feel. Sharing the crisp Italianate squares and restrained Pombaline chic of Baixa, but with the grand scale and extreme regimentation replaced with a dose of Barrio Alto's dense, chaotic hillside seaport vernacular.


Convento do Carmo by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Chafariz do Carmo by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Steps by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


R. do Alecrim by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


R. do Alecrim by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


R. Garrett by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Chiado renovation by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Azulejos #17 by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Twilight azulejos by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Rua de S. Paulo by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Lisbon sunset by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Lisbon sunset by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Burger joint by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Musicians by the Metro station by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Staircases by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr
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Old June 1st, 2017, 05:21 AM   #11
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I love this thread.
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Old June 1st, 2017, 10:31 PM   #12
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Great, very nice photos from Lisbon
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Old June 2nd, 2017, 08:10 AM   #13
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Fine thread, Steve!
The last picture (stairs) is only one of many, many very impressive ones!
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Old June 2nd, 2017, 08:31 AM   #14
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fantastic, the city is much beautiful at ground level.
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Old June 2nd, 2017, 08:52 AM   #15
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What a beautiful city, hilly cities really do have a certain appeal to them.
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Old June 2nd, 2017, 12:31 PM   #16
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Lisbon really does look like a fabulous city. I’ve heard only good things.

Are you back living in London now?
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Old June 2nd, 2017, 08:02 PM   #17
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cheers all for stopping in. Alfama, Castelo, Parque das Nações, Belem and various other things still to come

Jane - nope, Bristol until further notice. at the moment I am hoping to move to the EU next year (Lisbon put itself right on the shortlist!), so there's no point moving again before that, but we'll obviously have to wait and see if that works out...
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Old June 2nd, 2017, 08:18 PM   #18
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Gare do Oriente

Most normal people, having got their bearings of the basic city centre, would proceed to visit the Castle, Cathedral, the World Heritage architecture in Belém, one of the many major museums perhaps...

I am not very normal, so I went to visit.... a train/bus station.

I have always been a bit of a fan of Santiago Calatrava's work in photographs but as far as I can rack my brains, I've never seen any of his work in person, so the Gare do Oriente was very much on my list. And not having planned properly I picked that more or less randomly on my first day as somewhere to go. With hindsight this was yet another failure on my part as that would have been open any day, whereas other things I wanted to see turned out to be closed on later days... but never mind.

inside:


Gare do Oriente by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Gare do Oriente by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Gare do Oriente by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Gare do Oriente by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr

outside:


Gare do Oriente by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Gare do Oriente by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Gare do Oriente by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Gare do Oriente by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr

climbed a nearby hill to a derelict would-be building site for an overlook:


Gare do Oriente by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Gare do Oriente by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Gare do Oriente by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Gare do Oriente by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


I wanted to get a train from there back to central lisbon so i could photograph the platforms but, guess what... my poor planning strikes again, there wasnt another train for ages, the ticket guy just shrugged and told me to get the metro instead. i was getting hungry and didnt fancy the wait, so i did :/

obligatory graf shot


QUE? by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr
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Old June 2nd, 2017, 08:42 PM   #19
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Parque das Nações

Gare do Oriente was built to serve the new Parque das Nações (Park of Nations) district, built for the '98 Expo.

Now as an (ex) London when I hear "new build district to the east of the city, served by transport links with futuristic architecture" I think, "aha, the Canary Wharf of Lisbon". And indeed the station did remind me somewhat of the Jubilee Line Extension, in all its sci-fi concrete spaciousness, but a better analogy overall would be the South Bank ("riverside district with a high concentration of cultural venues and interesting touristy things to enjoy").

Of course I'd just spent an hour or so taking photos of a bus station, so by the time I got to the Knowledge Pavillion - closed. Cable car - closed. D'oh! I'd also intended to walk up to the Vasco da Gama bridge for a closer look, but it was getting late, the light was already fading... so, yeah, my stupid lack of planning cost me again.

The handful of shots I mustered:


Pavilhão de Portugal by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Pavilhão de Portugal by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Oceanário de Lisboa by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Pavilhão do Conhecimento by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Lock / cablecar / bridge / boardwalk by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Ponte Vasco da Gama by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr


Cable car / Ponte Vasco da Gama by stevekeiretsu, on Flickr
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Old June 3rd, 2017, 12:50 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbidM View Post
What a beautiful city, hilly cities really do have a certain appeal to them.
indeed they are fertile ground for photography imo, unfortunately I naively assumed that May=Spring=pleasantly warm, in fact it was 30+ sometimes which to me is beyond warm into outright hot, so i had a very love/hate relationship with the hills!
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