Trichy cityscapes (originally .......A Very Monsoony Tiruchirappalli.......)

[Jai]

Hi

One of the most important pilgrimage places in India is the city of Tiruchirappalli (Ti-ru-chir-ap-pa-li), or "Trichy" as its more commonly known.

Tiruchirappalli, situated on the banks of the river Cauvery is the fourth largest city in Tamil Nadu. The city has a rich history dating back nearly 2,500 years and over many empires. The architecture goes back to the centuries before the Christian era.

It was a citadel of the early Cholas until the 12th century, when the Cholas were subverted by the Vijayanagar kings of Hampi, who proudly withstood the invading Muslims. Less than fifty years later, the Nayaks of Madurai came to power, constructed the famously unassailable Rock Fort and what is now known as the Old City of Trichy, and firmly established Tiruchirappalli as trading city. Apart from the Fort, there are several Churches, Colleges and Missions dating back to the 1760s.


Trichy has been a place of religion and pilgrimage since pre-historic times. The very name "Tiruchirappalli" means “city of the three-headed demon”, in reference to legendary battle in which Hindu Lord Siva had with a three-headed demon named Trisiras reputedly at this spot. It's religious universities have created entirely new forms of theistic philosophy in the world, and for 2,000 years the temples of Srirangam have been a center of the teaching of Bhakti Yoga, which may be defined as the practice of devotional love of god as a spiritual path leading to enlightenment. This city has given great Tamil scholars whose contributions to the Tamil literature have been very significant.

Apart from being a pilgrimage center, it is a specialized manufacturing hub, one of the world's biggest producer of artificial diamonds and gemstones, and their related jewelry. It's also famous for its traditional cigars, handloom cloth, and glass bangles.


No thread about Trichy can start off without mentioning the most prominent landmark in the city, the Rock Fort.


^ The Rock Fort, built upon an 83m rock outcropping, dominates over the otherwise flat land of the city. The rock is one of the oldest in the world -- approximately 3.8 million years -- which makes it as old as the rocks of Greenland and older than the Himalayas.



^ The sheer abruptness of its rise is a thrill in itself, but the actual centre of attraction is not the fort itself, of which very little remains, but the ancient temple at the summit, where there are inscriptions dating back to the 3rd century. B.C. ...but more on that in a bit.



From the fort, one can enjoy a panoramic view of the lush city below. Here are some views of the city during the monsoon rains.


^ Here you can see one of the bridges over the river Cauvery, with the Old City in the foreground, and newer developments in the opposite bank. The small park is waterlogged under the monsoon deluge.



^ Looking to the left of the above shot, you see some newer redevelopment going on in the middle, while the limestone-constructed medieval buildings of the Old City stretch to the bank in the background and the direct foreground. The land in the where the construction is taking place used to be a shooting range and parade ground for the armies of the many ancient rulers of this city.



^ Turning counterclockwise from the previous shot, you can see modern Trichy rising up, with newer flats and buildings springing up around the many green grassy areas. The city makes an effort to preserve the paddy land that the new construction are built in as lush parks and grassy areas.



^ Turning counterclockwise once again, you can see the Old City, post-downpour, in the very direct foreground with the new city behind it. The Old City surrounds the Rock Fort, and dates back to the 1700s. It is now one huge open air produce and goods market. Plans are being formulated to restore the Old City to its former glory, and demolish encroachments and latter-day construction that blemish this historical and potential tourist goldmine.



^ Tiruchirapalli is equally well-known as a centre for learning of both spiritual and temporal matters. It is home to the prestigious Regional Engineering College and the St Joseph's College. St. Lourdu's Church is seemingly within touching distance from the ramparts of the fort. Built in 1812, the church has lovered doors, which when opened turns the church into an airy pavilion.



^ Continuing our clockwise turn, you can see the rather soaked-looking Old City in the foreground, with some newer bungalows poking up. Behind them is the protected green paddy fields, and behind that in the distance, modern Trichy.



^ Turning left again, we see the river Cauvery once more. The river swells its banks during the wet (monsoon) season. In the middle part of the picture, though its hard to see, you can see some of the traditional bungalow housing.



^ Speaking of the river, the Cauvery, Sometimes called 'the Ganga of the South,' is one of India's great sacred rivers, and many of India's most sacred pilgrimage centers are built along its banks. It's source is 500 miles across India, 5,000 feet above sea level in the W. Ghats mountain range in Karnataka, flowing eastwards and entering the Bay of Bengal a few hundred miles south of Chennai.


------==--=--==-------
CONTINUED BELOW
------==--=--==-------

[Jai]

------==--=--==-------
CONTINUED FROM ABOVE
------==--=--==-------


Now turning attention to the Rock Fort itself

^ The Rock Fort, seen here from a reverse angle, has an impressive history dating back several millenia to prehistoric times. Cave paintings and 'proto-Hindu' religious figures show that this was a place of pilgrimage for several thousand years. This rock also contains excavated cave temples dating to the 7th century A.D, famous for their fine sculptures.



^ However, the three temples that make up Rock Fort today are much more (relatively) recent: the Manikka Vinayakar temple at the foot of the hill, the Uchhi Pillayar Koyil at the top of the hill and the Taayumaanavar Koyil Shivastalam, half way up. The temples were built and added to during the various dynasties, from the Cholas, to the Vijayanagars and the Nayaks.

Photography is strictly forbidden in all these temples, so it is virtually impossible to find interior photographs. It's a pity, because the sculptures and art inside are some of the most beautiful in the world.



^ You walk up about 430 steps cut into a tunnel through the rock to get to the Ganesh Temple (Uchhi Pillayar Koyil) at the top of the hill. Halfway up, is the two storey Taayumaanavar Koyil Shivastalam (Shiva temple), a masterpiece of construction literally hewn from the hill itself, whose outside facade is partially seen above. The temple retains and incorporates the many natural formations of stalactites and stalagmites of the cave into the carvings.



^ At the top of the hill is the Uchhi Pillayar Koyil temple. From here you can take astounding views of the city.



^ Along the way to upper temples there are landings and shrines. Also en route to the top you can visit the cave temple excavation. Apart from the temple and the walls, not much remains of the actual fort part of Rock Fort itself. The Thousand-Pillared Hall of Rock Fort, which you see as you walk up the stairs, was mainly destroyed by an explosion in 1772.



^ Located to the rear of the Uchhi Pillayar Koyil temple is the Chittira Mandapam tower, seen above.



^ Another view of the Mandapam, taken on the same day as the monsoon city views.



^ Here is a view of the Old City from Mandapam, seen here post-restoration. The Chittira Mandapam is a was erected as a temple-cum-lookout tower from which artillery barrages and armies could also be directed in defense of the city.



^ Smaller, equally old temples are found all around the Old City. Here's a gaily painted example, above, painted in reflective paint.

You may notice the carvings on these temples, which are typical of South Indian temples. Similar in purpose to the stained glass windows of Europe's medieval cathedrals, these beautiful sculptures were intended to visually communicate religious myths to a largely illiterate population


------==--=--==-------
CONTINUED BELOW
------==--=--==-------

[Jai]

------==--=--==-------
CONTINUED FROM ABOVE
------==--=--==-------


As I mentioned before, Trichy is a temple city. The foremost temple complex and pilgrimage place in Trichy, and in all of India, is the Srirangam Temple Complex, located on the island of Srirangam in the river Cauvery next in Trichy. It is also considered 'Periya koil', or the most important of the 108 main Vishnu temples (Divya Desams). After Tirupati, this is the second most visited Vaishnava temple in South India.


^ The legend of the founding of the Srirangam temple tells that this a statue of Vishnu, known as Sri Ranganatha, was being transported across India to Sri Lanka by the sage Vibhisana. Resting from his efforts for awhile, he set the statue upon the ground, yet when ready to continue his journey, he found the statue had magically bound itself to the earth. A hundred hands could not budge the idol, so a small temple was built over it.

The temple complex which has since grown around the statue has been rebuilt and enlarged many times over thousands of years and its original date of founding is unknown to archaeology. Above you see a low-quality photo of the temple complex during the rainy season, as seen from the Rock Fort.



^ Above is a slightly better photo, taken during a drought in the dry season, when the riverbed had shrunk significantly.

This temple complex was built and added to by various dynasties including the Cheras, Pandyas, Cholas, Hoysalas and the Vijayanagar Empire between 13th and 18th centuries. Because of the generous financial support of the temple by numerous dynasties of ancient India, Srirangam has always been a haven for persons wishing to dedicate their lives to the practice of meditation and devotion. Many of India's most loved saints and sages have spent time at Srirangam including the 11th century sage Ramanuja who lived and was buried in the temple grounds.



^ For tourists and others, it is an architectural marvel of breathtakingly perfect proportions, true-to-life stone sculpture and intricate carvings. Built as a fort, it consists of seven concentric prakaras (walls) and 22 gopurams (towers) aligned in a north to south orientation, with the gopurams decreasing in size as you reach the inner sancitum. The first four ramparts have entrances surmounted with tall towers.



^ This complex structure measuring 950m by 816m, is the largest temple complex in Tamil Nadu. It is a treasure house of art, freezing various architectural styles over a period of centuries.



^ The main temple in the complex is the Sri Ranganathaswamy temple. The main deity in the temple, is Lord Ranganatha, or Lord Vishnu, depicted in a massive statue reclining on Sesa Naga. The other Gopurams seen in this photograph were constructed between the 14th and 17th centuries.


^ Above this main altar is the Srirangavimana, or the Golden Tower. This design has been made by pressing gold sheets into the structure with heated mercury, claimed to be a special process. On the four sides of the Srirangavimana are carvings of four forms of Lord Vishnu.

The two pics of the Srirangavimana is here seen above in a couple old (1970s) photographs before the complex's restoration. The reason I chose these old photos, is because I was unable to find a relatively high-res modern photograph from these perspective, from which one can better appreciate the scale and geometry of these temples.


^ Above is a small photo of how this perspective looks post-restoration, last year

Within the Sri Ranganathaswamy temple are an innumerable ammount of carvings, statues, paintings and other artwork. Like for example, this relief of a little girl expressing her love of God:


Or this relief of Garuda, Vishnu's mount:


Or this stunning painting of Vishnu, painted in the reflective paint and inlaid in gold leaf, making for a jaw-dropping sight in the flickering of the fire-torch light:



------==--=--==-------
CONTINUED BELOW
------==--=--==-------

[Jai]

------==--=--==-------
CONTINUED FROM ABOVE
------==--=--==-------



^ The tall white Vellai Gopuram is centered in the fourth concentric east wall of enclosure, which contains a museum and is the gate through which non-Hindus can enter. The Vellai Gopura suffered extensive damage from the French, who occupied the temple between 1752-1758, and plundered it repeatedly. The damages took over a hundred years to repair.


^ The fourth enclosure also has the Temple of Venugopala Krishnan, whose outside walls are decorated with very beautiful sculptures in high relief like young women playing the Veena (stringed instrument):


Or with a parrot or putting the finishing touches (tilaka) to their appearance before a looking glass:


Or Krishna playing the flute:


These figures are ranked among the finest examples of Nayaka art. A climb to the terrace overhanging this temple affords a general view of the Temple of Srirangam.



^ The Shehsaraya Mandapa (Horsecourt Hall) is on the east side of the Vellai Gopuram temple. These celebrated carvings, from the late 16th century, show humans in combat with animals and with other humans. The figures are approximately life-sized. Despite their furious action, the men's expressions are oddly calm and detached, as if merely posing for the sculpture.



^ Another view of the Shehsaraya Mandapa. Also next to the Velli Gopuram, is the Thousand-Pillared Hall of Srirangam, with its exquisite carvings. While it was being constructed by a King, he was attacked and killed by enemies and it was left uncompleted as a monument with only 953 pillars. Unfortunately, I could not find a photo of the hall, though it being among the most significant of the structures in the complex



^ Another view of the Vellai Gopuram, in the evening sunset




^ The tallest of the many towers in the complex is the breathtaking Rajagopuram, or Royal Gopuram, seen here in the background of some of the other gopurams which had just been restored. The damanged halls seen above have since been restored.



^ The Rajagopuram along with the basic structure and kalasams stands an amazing 236 ft. tall, the among the tallest temples in Asia. It is situated at one of the gates into the temple complex, overlooking the market solely dedicated to religious materials, flowers, etc. for worship at the temple.



^ From this image, one can truely appreciate the size and detail of the Gopuram



Tiruchirappalli is one of the most unique cities in one of the most unique countries in the world. The breathtaking beauty of its nature and monuments can't truely be seen in the photos haphazardly collected above. But I hope it gives you a hint of it.

Please note, the images above are only of a couple of the 100-odd ancient temples and monuments in the city.

Hope you enjoyed,
Jai

[Jai]

I will soon be posting this thread in the main forums. Just wondering if all my facts are correct

[Chennai_Forever]

Beautiful pics and nice descriptions. Thanks Jai.

[Anniyan]

Great work Jai, thanks..

please could u also write few words about Kalanai (kal-anai) , the worlds first irrigation dam built in 2nd century by chola king

[maran]

Great detailed descriptions, and surely would enthralled many foreigners around the world, wanting to come,learn,visit and feel the ambience of Trichy and its rich historical culture.

But, wonder why, the central and the Tamil nadu governments are failing to capitalise this wonderful Trichy,which is also centrally located geographically, into making this a great cultural and entertainment tourism related activities, as well as, various industrial related activities.

Therefore, wish and hope, the respective governments will initiate the moves soon, in taking advantage of Trichy's great potential aspects, in the pursuit of achieving better prospects for the people of central and southerly Tamil Nadu state.

[maran]

Great detailed descriptions, and surely would enthralled many foreigners around the world, wanting to come,learn,visit and feel the ambience of Trichy and its rich historical culture.

But, wonder why, the central and the Tamil nadu governments are failing to capitalise this wonderful Trichy,which is also centrally located geographically, into making this a great cultural and entertainment tourism related activities, as well as, various industrial related activities.

Therefore, wish and hope, the respective governments will initiate the moves soon, in taking advantage of Trichy's great potential aspects, in the pursuit of achieving better prospects for the people of central and southerly Tamil Nadu state.

[VaastuShastra]

Wow, ive never seen a combination of architecture like that before.

Great city - along with Madurai.

[vadi]

Great post and thanks for the commentary.
i visited thiruchi and srirangam about 10-11 years ago. loved that place.

memories of thiruchi are etched in my mind, i can even recall some roads don't remember the names though. lol.

[sivatrichy]

image hosted on flickr

[sivatrichy]

image hosted on flickr

[sivatrichy]

image hosted on flickr

[Nebo]

Superb Jai. Thanks a lot for sharing the info. Can you post these info in a blog, that would be even better for those who searches about our city.

Beautiful pics ! Wonderful ! Taken in very nice angles. With houses and other buildings mushroomed, i wonder how did u take these pic.Really a nice effort ! Hats off !

Is there any way to link this to blog ?

[kg4129]

X post

Originally Posted by nikonian

image hosted on flickr

[kg4129]

X post

One of the three world heritage site in tamilnadu

One of the oldest and greatest Shiva Temple of all times.
It was built in 1010 AD.It was built by Cholan King Rajaraja. 50 KM from Trichy city

[kg4129]

Continuation...

[kg4129]

The guy looks so tiny

[kg4129]