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Old October 6th, 2005, 05:53 PM   #1
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Moscow: Classic walks - part 6 - Tverskaya Street

After a longer break it's time for another Moscow walk This one will take us along main stretch of the Tverskaya Street, from the Manezhnaya Square to the Pushkin Square. The pictures were taken in September 2004 and September 2005. The ones with nice weather are those from 2004

Tverskaya is the main street of Moscow. As its name suggests it was the road leading to the city of Tver. Later also to St Petersburg.

In the thirties the street was widened and reconstructed in a stalinistic soc-realistic style. Many of the old buildings were demolished, some were moved back about 15 meters to make space for the new wide stretch of the street. Tverskaya was then renamed to Gorky Street but reverted to its old name in 1990.

Tverskaya begins at Manezhnaya Square, just outside Kremlin. Here is Tverskaya seen from that square:

The first building on the left side of Tverskaya is the National Hotel. Once upon a time the most exclusive hotel in Moscow. Lenin lived here in 1918 before he moved on to Kremlin (where he still resides )

Just beyond National Hotel, another hotel was standing - Intourist Hotel - a glassy box highrise. It was demolished about 2 years ago and a new building is being constructed on that site. You can see on the rendering what it will look like. It is the building in the middle:

The initial uphill stretch of Tverskaya:

A police control:

There are many fashionable shops along Tverskaya:

As you can see the opening hours of the shops are long...

The shops are usually open to 22 PM all days a week. One big bookstore I saw was open to 1 AM. Some food stores and coffe houses are open 24 hours a day.

One of my favorite features of soc-realistic (stalinistic) architecture is the use of big monumental archways:

Traditional Moscow trolley bus

We take a look back at Kremlin...

...and the Central Telegraph Office:

Here you can see the buildings between Kremlin and Central Telegraph Office. From the left: National Hotel, the construction on the site of the Intourist Hotel and the Yermolova Theatre (the old green building, one of few buildings that "survived" the reconstruction of the street):

Parking on pedestrian crossings is nothing unusual in Moscow... (people without legs are quite unusual though, just a coincidence...)

As well as parking on the pavements:

Every 50 meters along Tverskaya there is a "parking man" standing, directing the drivers to a free parking space (often on the pavement) and collecting the fee:

Now we've reached the Kamergerskiy pereulok, a very nice pedestrian street on the right side of Tverskaya:

The green building on the left side is the famous Moscow Arts Theatre - MKhat. It was founded in 1898 by the legend of modern theatre, Konstantin Stanislavsky. Chekhov had his greatest successes here:

We will stay on this pedestrian street for a while and take a look around us:

A homeless man with a dog. Last year I saw a lot of homeless people with dogs in Moscow... Wonder what happened to those without dogs...?

I decide to eat my lunch at the Akademiya restaurant seen here in the background:

While waiting for the food I take a look around me:

Still waiting for food...

My meal haven't arrived yet

I'm getting hungry now... she too?

Finally I've got my lunch

Ready to continue the walk along Tvierskaya.

On the opposite side of the street there is a modern building, in fact the only modern one I saw along Tverskaya:

We continue uphill. As you can see there are no pedestrian crossings on Tverskaya, only underground passages:

Another archway:

Worth a closer examination:

Behind the archway on the side street a pink meeting between baroque and modernism:

Looking back at Tverskaya through the archway:

Back at Tverskaya. Must admit I like this street

A look back. Kremlin towers seen in the perspective of the street:

And a look in the direction of our walk. Tverskaya levels out at this point:

In the background an example of contemporary Russian architecture can be seen. I'm not very fond of it...

We've reached one of Tverskaya's main landmarks, the characteristic red building of the City Council (or Mayor's Office). It was moved back 14 meters in the thirties when the street was widened:

Opposite the City Council there is a square with a monument of the legendary founder of Moscow Yuri Dolgorukiy:

We continue our walk:

Another archway

The September in Moscow last year was really hot...

A few buildings that "survived" (at least partly) the reconstruction of the street:

A side street:

There is a nice café in this house...

...that I visited one night:

A side street:

In this house you can find one of the most interesting food stores in Moscow:

The Yeliseyev's food store from 1901:

It has the finest interior of any shop in the city:

Back at Tverskaya. Another side street. As you can see the buildings are very low compared to those on Tverskaya. And the new residential building in the background is very tall compared to other building on this street. Moscow is a city of contrasts:

One more archway

We take a last look back at Tverskaya...

...before reaching the Pushkin Square, the final destination of this walk:

In the house on the left side you can see the first legendary McDonald's in Russia

More pictures from the Pushkin Square will come in one of the coming threads.

This is the end of our walk, but I still have some night photos of Tverskaya to show you:

A girl trying to catch a private transport. Very common in Moscow (and Kiev):

Around the corner on the Pushkin Square:

That's all for now. I hope that you enjoyed this thread

My Moscow series:
Beautiful views from Hotel Ukraina
Classic walks - part 1 - from Hotel Ukraina to Ministry of Foreign Affairs
Classic walks - part 2 - Arbat and New Arbat
Classic walks - part 3 - Prechistenka (will come later)
Classic walks - part 4 - Kitay Gorod (will come later)
Classic walks - part 5 - Manezhnaya Square
Classic walks - part 6 - Tverskaya Street

Last edited by michau; October 9th, 2005 at 10:43 PM.
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Old October 8th, 2005, 10:49 AM   #2
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Awesome pictures. They reflect Moscow very well. Thank you!!!
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Old July 29th, 2006, 08:38 AM   #3
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this is a really amazing collection of pictures. it gives a very good sence of what cental Moscow areas look like ..
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Old July 29th, 2006, 06:41 PM   #4
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Very nice photo tour.
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Old August 5th, 2006, 12:04 AM   #5
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hey man you should post for some magazine i thing i like these pictures moscow from Yours Eyes
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Old August 5th, 2006, 01:13 PM   #6
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Great pictures, Moscow is looking pretty good. So I take it you enjoyed your trip?
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Old August 11th, 2006, 02:57 PM   #7
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Great pictures but I must admit I don't like the street itslef.

1) It is completely paved, no trace of greenery. I think a row of trees on at least on side would add a lot to the look.

2) There are far too many wires hanging across the street, it just looks messy.

3) Too many drving lanes making it hostile for pedestrians.
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Old August 13th, 2006, 10:42 PM   #8
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Great pics that really give you a feeling for the city! The arches are nice but a bit too many perhpas? Just kidding! People in my family and some friends I know have either visited or lived in Russia! It has always been a place I would like to visit! Hopefully one day...
Dum Spiro Spero
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Old August 14th, 2006, 06:54 AM   #9
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amazing tour
The Cities I Lived In: Banja Luka, Zagreb, San Francisco, Washington DC, Taipei, Damascus, Amman, Jakarta, Seoul, Kabul

“The Roots of Violence: Wealth without work, Pleasure without conscience, Knowledge without character, Commerce without morality, Science without humanity, Worship without sacrifice, Politics without principles” - Mahatma Gandhi

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