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View Poll Results: Is Filipino food a world cuisine?
DEFINITELY!!! 168 74.01%
NO WAY!!! 59 25.99%
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Old August 15th, 2007, 08:37 PM   #321
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Making the a-list

By Margaux Salcedo
Inquirer
Last updated 07:32am (Mla time) 08/12/2007


MANILA, Philippines – There is an international panel of judges composed of restaurateurs, chefs and food writers who annually determine the World’s 50 Best Restaurants and publish the results in a London publication called Restaurant Magazine (www.theworlds50best.com). It is a competitive list that has El Bulli (Spain), The Fat Duck (UK), Pierre Gagnaire (France), French Laundry (USA), and Tetsuya’s (Australia) in the Top Five. I can happily say that there was definitely one nomination for a Filipino restaurant, thanks to a Filipino judge for the 2007 list. But one voice isn’t enough to champion the cause of putting the Philippines on the global culinary map. And heroism in an elite panel is not the key either. The key is, simply and honestly, to have a world-class restaurant.

And just what is a world-class restaurant? It is one whose ambience captures you the moment you enter the door, with an aura that is both pleasant and almost seductive. After all, the guest’s first impression is the unwritten appetizer on the menu. It is a restaurant that has first class service and impeccable health standards. No black fly in your Chardonnay. It is a restaurant that is uncompromising in its use of first class ingredients. And most importantly, world-class restaurants have chefs who are not only passionate but also devoted to their craft. So obsessed are these chefs that they literally dream up the menu and then wake up to bring this menu to life. Then brilliance blooms on the plate as the chef hits the taste nail on the head, successfully adding the word “art” to the basic “culinary.”

Happily, we do have a few chefs who have this kind of brilliance, give or take a few misses. One of them owns a little restaurant at the Fort called Bistro Filipino. His name is Rolando Laudico and he must be watched and pushed to the best of his ability, because this man can put us on that World 50 list. This is not to say that Bistro Filipino, as it is, would not make the World 50. It still has a few seas to sail. But suffice it to say, the chef is on the right track.

As the doors are opened for you at Bistro Filipino, you immediately get a sense of understated Philippine elegance. The atmosphere is casual and diners come in jeans, but the place, like the guests dining, definitely reeks of class. A chandelier with naked bulbs welcomes you at the same time that the host says hello. Like the food that is presented a few minutes later, it is a work of art that is mesmerizing because it not only maintains but exposes something so basic while transforming this place into something unique, edgy and beautiful.

Privacy is offered by translucent curtains that divide the middle of the three rows of tables. And the waiters are sensitive to your needs, although they may miss a beat, as they did when we had to remind them a third time of our wine, which arrived uncomfortably close to dessert when I last dined at the Bistro. I would raise a glass, though, to their participation in the Bistro Filipino experience: in this restaurant the waiters share with you the story behind the serving before you dip your spoon into the plate, a rarity in Philippine restaurants, albeit standard operating procedure in first class high-brow outfits such as Hong Kong’s Opia or New York’s Per Se. Not for show, but because it is essential to help the guest understand and appreciate the work put into the plate. Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa would not be as valuable without the history that surrounds it.

A quick look at the menu engages your curiosity. Milk Fish Soufflé: smoked bangus and keso de bola soufflé in a whole tomato? The skeptic would doubt. But the chef delivers.

Laudico is at the forefront of modern Filipino cuisine. Sisig (pig’s ears), a favorite bar chow of many a Pinoy but squirmed at by most foreign guests, is presented not on a sizzling plate but delicately enclosed in a crispy rice basket and presented elegantly with a quail egg. As with the chandelier, the artist’s creativity changes the character of the dish from barbaric to brilliant: no foreigner would hesitate to bite into Laudico’s sisig. Lumpia, a light vegetable snack that is usually enjoyed in egg roll wrappers, is instead presented in a crisp cone and enjoyed with chorizo for added bite. Mongo beans are pureed and served with parmigiano crisps garnished with slow roasted herb tomatoes and crisp labahita flakes. For the main course, salmon is not just buttered but served on escabeche sauce while the classic pork adobo is given a makeover by pairing it with foie gras and glutinous rice. Over the top? Perhaps a tad on that last one but I would willingly indulge if I were you.

Dessert, care of the chef’s wife Jacqueline, maintains the theme of being distinctly Pinoy yet worldly. The molten chocolate cake, arguably one of the best chocolate cakes in the country, is engineered using carabao milk. Chocolate mousse is created using the Filipino tablea, while the cheesecake is a twist on the classic maja blanca.

I had been hesitant to visit Bistro Filipino for the longest time because Alya Honasan and Tim Yap gave him so much press in late 2006 that I shied away from the “chef of the moment.” Endorsed by the Yaparazzi, I mistook Laudico for a fad. But Tim proved that he’s got a taste for the timeless as well because clearly Laudico is a serious player in the game. Casually engaging in conversation with the restaurant guests in between meals, the New York-trained and French-honed chef shares the secret of his savories: “I design them first in my mind then I put my vision to the test.”

The result? Nothing less than an A.

Chef Laudico Bistro Filipino is located at the Ground Floor Net2 Building, 3rd Avenue, Fort Bonifacio Global City, Taguig. Call 856-0634 or 856-0541 or visit website www.cheflaudico.com.ph

http://showbizandstyle.inquirer.net/...ticle_id=82029
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Old August 16th, 2007, 06:05 AM   #322
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COUNTRY COOKING
Soup is for the soul
By Micky Fenix


MANILA, Philippines -- Down and out with the flu for three days, the last thing I wanted to think about was food.

Knocked out by a combination of hilot and Western medicine on the first day, I did not feel hunger pangs the next day when I managed to open my eyes. But my cook knows that when someone’s sick, you always make soup.

So it was sinigang for lunch. I managed to take two sips, but felt my throat react to the harsh, acidic broth. Then it was back to sleep again.

In the evening, there was arroz caldo. Again, two sips of the broth and that was it.

In my wakeful minutes, I thought of soup. Not from hunger but for something better to think about than my sorry state and that of the world as seen on television.

Soup was my introduction to an essay on Iloilo food. One of my interviewees on a second, more intensive research trip took issue with that.



Rafael Jardeleza of Mundo, a restaurant by the Iloilo city river, said pancit molo and batchoy shouldn’t be what came to mind when thinking of Iloilo cooking.

Those are Chinese, he said. Though he didn’t mention anything, after going through the cuisine for several weeks in several towns and restaurants, I realized what he meant.

True Iloilo soup

Over at one of his tables was binacol. It’s sliced native chicken, nothing but, mixed with buko water and strips and cooked inside a bamboo tube. The top is sealed with banana leaves then the upright bamboo is placed on a bed of charcoal.

Binacol can also be cooked in a coconut shell but for most people, there is nothing that can duplicate the aroma of bamboo. Some people told me, however, that adding fresh bamboo sprouts is even better. So that set me thinking. Was binacol what Jardeleza was talking about? Its presence could be a not-so-subtle hint.

It was only when winding up my research that I realized how soups formed a big part of the Iloilo menu. I took some comfort in that because I was right to say that soups came to mind.

It was just that they should not only be pancit molo and batchoy. But I include those again because any food, no matter its provenance, becomes ours when we make it so.

Festival for a soup


My culinary guides brought me to Cabatuan town to taste tinu-om na manok. Apparently, the dish made the town famous. There is even a festival featuring their favorite chicken soup.



Tinu-om means to cook in banana leaf, so tinu-om na manok is chicken cooked in banana parcels. There’s much more to the exercise, however.

The one tasked to show me how it was done was the town’s acknowledged tinu-om cook, Aurelio Sera. It’s not his daily job but he will do it for officials who have to treat guests to the best the town has to offer. Of course, the town fiesta and the festival are when he’s busiest.

Only the upper portions of the banana leaves can be used. There should be three leaves in all, arranged in layers so the soup can be held properly.



Watching Sera chop the chicken is like watching old cooks working in their haphazard fashion, each piece too small and, of course, bone splinters all around. It’s what we hope the new generation of cooks will unlearn.

He distributes the chicken into several packets. Each packet will have water, ginger, onions, garlic, lemon grass, potato and a bit of margarine or liquid seasoning. The edges of the banana leaves are then gathered and tied with a strip of banana leaf. The cooking involves steaming.

While the dish was cooking, we left briefly to look at the only tinu-om restaurant in town. Leah’s is a small shack where people order their daily dose of chicken soup. One order is good for two if you take it with one of the dishes displayed in the escaparate (glass case) such as grilled squid.

The packet is lifted out of the steamer and placed in a clay pot. With a pair of scissors, the cook cuts the leaves just under the strip that ties them together. When it opens up, the steam and the aroma from the lemon grass are so welcoming. It is clean tasting with just the right balance of flavors.

We went back to Sera’s version. It had a slightly different flavor but only just so. We thought it was the margarine added.

Perhaps the strangest soup is the linagpang. The recipe is simple. Charcoal-broiled chicken or fish and banana leaf-wrapped guinamos or shrimp paste.

The chicken is then shredded, the fish de-boned then placed in a bowl. The guinamos is unwrapped and placed with the main ingredient. Sliced tomatoes and onions are added. Chopped siling labuyo is next. Now this is the surprise. Boiling water is added to all that.

Students of cooking would think that broth, at least, should be added. But no, it’s just water. When we had it at Ruth Padilla’s place, it was invigorating and good.

Boiled water is also poured over chopped pork tenderloin with slices of ginger and scallions to make bas-oy.

There are so many more soups in Iloilo to write about. But those that came to mind while I was flat on my back helped me regain a little bit of appetite. Soup, indeed, is for the soul.

Gastronomical indeed!!!

Source: Inquirer.net
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Old August 16th, 2007, 06:12 AM   #323
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haaay, makagulutom....... I want my Batchoy especially subong nga tag ulan....
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Old August 16th, 2007, 06:17 AM   #324
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wow berns thank you for this article....

I missed the Cabatuan's Tinuom and Binakol....

hay! Pag puli ko mahapit gid ko da.... also the Lagpang (which has so many versions) mas namit ang lagpang nga manok with milk!

I hope i promote gid ni mayo sang Cabatuan... paging Pacific.

Tani sooner available na ni as mainstay sang mga Ilonggo Resto esp the Tinuom and Binakol!
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Old August 16th, 2007, 07:38 AM   #325
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wala speciality resto sa aton nga naga-serve lang Ilonggo dishes? I think this is a good move of promoting Ilonggo delicacies and gastronomic specialities. It will be a haven for tourist to visit whenever they are in Iloilo. Imagine all menu to be served is a 100% Ilonggo dishes plus of course Ilonggo pastries. Come to think of it. Wow !
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Old August 18th, 2007, 08:43 AM   #326
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wala speciality resto sa aton nga naga-serve lang Ilonggo dishes? I think this is a good move of promoting Ilonggo delicacies and gastronomic specialities. It will be a haven for tourist to visit whenever they are in Iloilo. Imagine all menu to be served is a 100% Ilonggo dishes plus of course Ilonggo pastries. Come to think of it. Wow !
Damo eh... tani its about time na include sa ila menu ang tinuom kag binakol.
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Old August 18th, 2007, 11:14 AM   #327
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on those two , I think I haven't had the luck to try them.
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Old August 20th, 2007, 06:41 AM   #328
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gusto ko mag pauli lilo kag mag kaon Teds Batchoy, Extra Super with extra chicharon,garlic and puto, tapos Miswa Batchoy pa guid, yummy!

then Chicharon Bulaklak...mmmmm,sakit heart ko,lol

Tapos Kadto sa Red Ribbon kag mag kaon Pancit Palabok, then kadto sa Summer House kag mag kaon Miswa Bijon, lol...puro pansit.....lol
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Old August 20th, 2007, 06:59 AM   #329
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BTW, Deco's is going to open a new branch in La Sallette building, beside Mang Inasal. Indi pa man tapos but from what I've seen daw ka nami sang interiors ya, gamay lang galing compared sa Ted's which is just on the other side of the building.
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Old August 20th, 2007, 07:30 AM   #330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chymera00 View Post
BTW, Deco's is going to open a new branch in La Sallette building, beside Mang Inasal. Indi pa man tapos but from what I've seen daw ka nami sang interiors ya, gamay lang galing compared sa Ted's which is just on the other side of the building.
yup, daw pareho sng Max's restaurant ang concept, ano gani specialty sng Deco's a?
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Old August 20th, 2007, 06:07 PM   #331
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more batchoyan coming ?
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Old August 22nd, 2007, 08:36 AM   #332
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more batchoyan coming ?
the battle for Batchoy Supremacy begins...

tani mabalik ang Nats (batchoy), Farmers... I remember sa atubang sang SM delgado....

pra may variants man
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Old August 23rd, 2007, 09:51 AM   #333
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Huo man... Farmer's tani. When it still exists, I prefer it than Ted's.
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Old August 23rd, 2007, 10:36 AM   #334
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sang gamay pa ko, mas sikat sa akon ang Farmer's Batchoy sa atubangan SM Delgado. Later on na lng ko ya na orient sa Teds. memories ..... memories......
damu man gali naka dumdum sng Farmer's hehehe kay sang gamay pa ko, sa Farmers kami ya ga pang Batchoy. Later on na lng sa Teds.. I think high school na ko ....
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Old August 23rd, 2007, 12:28 PM   #335
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we used to dine in Farmer's, too. For me and our family, Framer's is homey. Pampamilya gid iya mga Nonoys.
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Old August 24th, 2007, 07:56 AM   #336
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Yup, taht is as afar as I can remember... I don't know what happened or when sila nag-close... last thing I know wala na. Ambot lang kung active pa ang Nats ah.

Mayo na kay ga expand man ang Decos...
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Old August 24th, 2007, 09:41 AM   #337
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COSMO Iloilo's newly opened fast food café, PINK MUSHROOM DINER, breathed a new life to the sprawling Paseo of the posh Robinsons Place.

It has one of a kind sleek décor in shades of strawberry to cascading sweet shades of pastel pink.

The place surely speaks of dramatic ultra hip romantic interiors.

It also boasts of esoteric combinations of exotic and luxury ingredients. Wow! Taste the place's luscious litany of mushroom-based savory cuisines!

For the Ilonggo's discriminating taste, the cool and spacious Pink Mushroom Diner surely is one in a million melting spot here in the Metropolis perfect for fine dinning, private parties, business and family gatherings.

For reservations call tel. no. (033) 3383736
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Old August 24th, 2007, 11:35 AM   #338
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it's all PINK.
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Old August 24th, 2007, 11:37 AM   #339
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PINK MUSHROOM DINER (PMD) @ ROBINSONS PLACE ILOILO'S PASEO


The blessing and inaugural ribbon-cutting scenes. (L-R) PMD owner Daisy Deza, Atty. George Demaisip, Ms. Matty Treñas & Fr. Anino


Pink Mushroom's spacious interiors

source: The Guardian ILOILO
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Old August 25th, 2007, 07:32 AM   #340
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I will definitely drop by this place... i LOVE mushrooms or foods with mushroom ingredients!

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