Philippine Cuisine: Preserving Culinary Traditions

[dinabaw]

Originally Posted by Louman

I read somewhere that the cuisine of some parts of the Philippines (probably Mindanao) resemble more that of SE Asian cuisine like Indonesian and Thai. It may be that it has yet to become part of mainstream Filipino cuisine. Anyone confirm this to be true or not?

It's true in ethnic or tribal of both people have the same way cooking food or rice using bamboo tube.

[Lili]

Originally Posted by Elsongs

Indonesian, yes, Thai, no. Filipino food has very little resemblance to Thai food.
BTW ever had an Indonesian "Lumpia"? Its called lumpia but does not look or taste like a Philippine lumpia.

Tom yum is like our sinigang, except they add more chili and lemon grass. Their curry is similar to ours. Their dishes with peanut sauce is similar to our kare-kare.

[Animo]

By world cuisine in regards to appealing to a majority of the people in the world now. Sorry, but no.

By the way, I´d like to share ths message from Prof. Zialcita. Its really interesting about the world 'almusal'.

> 1. Although the word 'merienda' is of Spanish origin, I am not
sure that Spaniards eat 6 times a day the way Filipinos do. I did
not find this to be the case in Spain. There is no need. The servings
of meat and fish for lunch and dinner are huge. Paella is just a
first course! In our case, we prefer small servings with plenty of
starch. My American doctor in Hawaii, Dr. John McDougall, said that
it is really healthier to eat several small meals thoughout the day.
Also that the traditional farmer's diet of plenty of starch (it
has to be unpolished rice and wheat, or tubers like potato) with
plenty of vegetables AND a limited serving of protein does not
overload the body. The problem is that one gets hungry in-between
lunch and dinner. Thus merienda.
>
> 2. Eating a heavy breakfast is un-Spanish. A Mexican friend tells
me that is more Mexican than Spanish. Upon getting up early in the
morning, a Mexican farmer eats a quick breakfast. When he comes home
in the middle of the morning to escape the heat, he takes a heavier
meal: almuerzo. In Spain, almuerzo is for lunch, my friend says in
Mexico, it refers to this heavy breakfast as well. This, he says, may
be one reason why we Filipinos call our breakfast 'almusal' instead
of 'desayuno.'
>
> 3. Let's ask our Spanish and Mexican friends what they think
about points 1 and 2.
>
> 4. Indonesians eat small meals throughout the day? Not my
Javanese friends who are surprised by our fondness for snacking. This
may be true of the Balinese.
>
> 5. It is not the rural "village" (rural barrio/barangay) that
is built around the church and plaza. More likely it is the town
center (poblacion) where the central plaza is located in front of the
church and the government buildings. Urban barangays like the one I
live in, Tambo in Parañaque, has a parish church. But the barangay
layout does not center upon it.
>
> 6. Neo-gothic and neo-romanesque styles entered during the 19th
century. But the most widespread church style introduced by the
Spaniards is the Baroque, beginning in the 17th century down to the
early 19th century. This is a Baroque that is simplified,
indigenized and colored with Chinese influences. In brief, a Filipino
version of the Baroque.
>
> 7. Wet rice cultivation was known by prehispanic Filipinos. It
was practised on the shores of the Lake of Bai which flooded
annually. However, this is a tedious process on other types of land
in the absence of draft animals and the plow. You have to upturn the
soil manually! The spade becomes your main tool. Hence shifting
cultivation was a reasinable adaptation to the mountainous, forested
environment of pre-17th century Luzon and the Visayas. In the Manila
region, the hills began at Sampaloc and La Loma!
>
> 8. But what about the rice terraces of Ifugao? There is a
controversy as to when these really began. Beyer claimed that these
must have been constructed 2000 years ago. Based on what evidence
though? Others, like Keesing, claim that these were built by the
Ifugaos only during the past 400 years. Escaping taxation and
tribute, the Ifugaos migrated mountainwards and found they had to
construct terraces to survive. Initially this was without the plow. A
colleague, Steve Acabado, is looking into this issue more closely.
>

[Animo]

Here are some of the results done by a cultural anthropologist about
Filipino cuisine and I quote:

1. "....the consensus of Filipinos and American food critics is that
when Westerners think of Asian cuisine, 'Whether it is Thai, Burmese,
Indonesian', they always associate it with indigenous spices, 'which
Philippine cuisine does not have' (martel 1997)

(Source: Zialcita, "Why Insist On An Asian Flavor" p. 1.)

2. " A pan-Spanish way of cooking present in Spanish-inflenced
countries are such habits like sauteeing in garlic, onions and
tomatoes or stewing (puchero, cocido)..."

(Source: Zialcita,"Why Insist On Asian Flavor: The Hispanic World"
p.20)

3. "those who identify 'Asia' with complex seasoning find Tagalog or
Visayan cooking 'uninteresting' because of the restrained seasoning.
Worse still as unoriginal. Unfortunately, they overlook the
distinguishing feature of Lowland Christian Filipino cuisine which is
not the seasoning, but the fondness for sour flavors... the sour is
used as a foil against the texture of fat and oil... Adobo and paksiw
both pickle meat and fish in vinegar, pepper and garlic before
cooking them..."

(source: Zialcita, "Why Insist On An Asian Flavor"p. 15-16)

And finally, another conclusion which I equally share:

"Simplistic notions of what Asia is and should be in relation to the
West have succeeded in marginalizing, on the international scene, the
achievements of Lowland Christian Filipinos, not only in cuisine, but
in the arts as well. They have also succeeded in making many educated
lowland Christian Filipinos apologetic about their culture when they
reflect on it and have to articulate it before outsiders. Often they
assume that since the costume, the music, the architecture, and the
literature of lowland Christian Filipinos have an obvious Hispanic
component, they cannot be Asian, for to be Asian means to be non-
Western. Therefore, they cannot be 'authentic' either, for to be in
Asia means thinking and behaving like a true Asian. Thus the anguish
in defining the Christian Filipino's identity..."

(Source: Zialcita, "Why Insist On An Asian Flavor". p.2-3)


In other words, the very denial by the Filipinos of their own culture
because of their never ending quest for what's indigenous created
their identity problems. When everything has to be measured according
to the culture of their neighbors but not their own and use blame to
reject the outcome of history for what's politically correct. Then
there is no Filipino Nation to fight for because the factual Filipino
identity was not allowed to exist in the first place.

---

Prof. F. Zialcita

1) At least in Java and Sumatra, a taste for sourness is disliked. But
this is precisely what characterizes Tagalog cooking and some aspects of
Ilonggo/ Cebuano cooking. The idea of cooking in vinegar, as in adobo and
paksiw, repels my Indonesian students. They have a version of sinigang called "sayur
asam." Asam means both "sour" and "tamarind." But they sweeten the
sourness of the tamarind with sugar!

2) Garlic is also used in their cooking. Same word as here: "bawang."
Onion is "bawang putih" (white bulb). But they don't use it as much as we
Tagalogs and Visayans do. Like we enjoy sauteeing (guisa) our noodles and
fish in garlic. We even sprinkle raw garlic on our lumpia (spring rolls).
Not them.

Why the difference? The use of garlic for sauteeing is nto indigenous to
Luzon and Visayas. The main flavoring, according to the early 16th-27th
century accounts, was SALT. Plus presumably with patis and bagoong --
both of which are common throughout Southeeast Asia. The reasoin we like
garlic is because we have assimilated this very Mediterranean habit --
Spain, Southern France and Italy -- and made it our own.

3) Our pancit and other dishes are cooked with "achuete." We are unique in
the region for doing so. Why so? Because of Mexican influence.

[Lili]

Huh? How can Pan-Asian or Asian fusion food be international cuisine and not Philippine food just because it is a mix of Asian and Spanish?

It is really more about marketing our food.

For a long period of time, Westerners used to gag at the idea of eating raw fish (sashimi) and raw fish/seafood rolled in vinegared rice and seaweed, until it was packaged as being 'trendy'. It became an acquired taste.

[tigidig14]

anyway ive been noticing na ang kanin
malapot pag lumabas

[bitoy]

Anak ng baka, that article sounded like all the spices in the world are owned by Spain. Since they are the once who discovered the world of different spices...

3) Our pancit and other dishes are cooked with "achuete." We are unique in
the region for doing so. Why so? Because of Mexican influence.

Pati ba naman pancit nilalagyan ng Atsuwete?, ang tunay na sotanghon ay walang achuete but paprika or walang pang kulay.

By world cuisine in regards to appealing to a majority of the people in the world now. Sorry, but no

The world cuisine then would be McDonalds, Chinese dishes and Pizzas.

[Lili]

Originally Posted by tsinoy

Anak ng baka, that article sounded like all the spices in the world are owned by Spain. Since they are the once who discovered the world of different spices...

Pati ba naman pancit nilalagyan ng Atsuwete?, ang tunay na sotanghon ay walang achuete but paprika or walang pang kulay.

Oo nga. Eh hindi ba kaya nga sila ng circumnavigate the world, in search of spices? Saka hindi nilalagyan ng achuete yung pancit no?

Plus, if the use of bawang is not indigenous to the land, how come we refer to it as 'bawang' and not 'ajo'? Plus, paksiw makes extensive use of vinegar (suka) and garlic (bawang).

Maybe the writer meant sibuyas (onion) which was derived from cebollas.

[Elsongs]

Originally Posted by tsinoy

Anak ng baka, that article sounded like all the spices in the world are owned by Spain. Since they are the once who discovered the world of different spices...

Actually Britain was... you know, Posh Spice, Sporty Spice, Baby Spice...

[Elsongs]

Originally Posted by Lili

It is really more about marketing our food.

I agree 100%. Most Filipino restaurants do not make any sort of effort to market to non-Filipinos.

[Saigoneseguy]

I found that some Filipino foods are similar to Southern Vietnamese foods:balut, frog legs, Dinugan, snails and fruits and even desserts...

Wow

[Lili]

Originally Posted by SaiGoNeseKiD

I found that some Filipino foods are similar to Southern Vietnamese foods:balut, frog legs, Dinugan, snails and fruits and even desserts...

Wow

Yes, we do have a lot of common food. Even the clear broth fish soup is very similar. The use of fresh ingredients and lots of vegetables, the fish sauce, the coconut milk base as well as coconut and rice cake desserts. The crushed ice dessert with beans and milk, etc. The taste for meats that are grilled. The pickled grated papaya, the spring rolls (lumpia for us), etc. etc. This is the reason why I am fond of Vietnamese cuisine.

Actually, Vietnamese food is one of my favorites.

I think the only difference is that we don't use mint and basil leaves. And I love that added fresh taste.

[bitoy]

Originally Posted by Elsongs

Actually Britain was... you know, Posh Spice, Sporty Spice, Baby Spice...

we need those babes to promote Fiipino foods!

[Lili]

What about Old Spice?

[jadebench]

dinala kami ni tigs sa vietnamese town sa chicago, dun ko nalaman may leche flan din pala ang mga vietcong!

[Lili]

Yeah coz leche flan is like creme caramel or creme brulee. And Vietnam was under French rule for some time.

[Animo]

Originally Posted by Lili

Oo nga. Eh hindi ba kaya nga sila ng circumnavigate the world, in search of spices? Saka hindi nilalagyan ng achuete yung pancit no?

Plus, if the use of bawang is not indigenous to the land, how come we refer to it as 'bawang' and not 'ajo'? Plus, paksiw makes extensive use of vinegar (suka) and garlic (bawang).

Maybe the writer meant sibuyas (onion) which was derived from cebollas.

Again don't limit yourselves to the Tagalog region. To the Bisayans the word bawang does not exist we use ajos. The article was a response from Prof. Zialcita, like it or not he have interacted with the people (Southeast Asians, Latin Americans, Filipinos, and Europeans) and have seen these differences and similarities. Again, read between the lines. He did not say it is not indigenous but the usage of it in the food before by the natives. By the way, why are you guys threaten with the similarities, differences and the truth?

Furthermore, it was the Arab settlers/merchants who had the upperhand of spices before and not Europeans. It was expensive and spices were only used by the European nobilities and the common people used salt.

[Animo]

Originally Posted by Lili

Huh? How can Pan-Asian or Asian fusion food be international cuisine and not Philippine food just because it is a mix of Asian and Spanish?

It is really more about marketing our food.

For a long period of time, Westerners used to gag at the idea of eating raw fish (sashimi) and raw fish/seafood rolled in vinegared rice and seaweed, until it was packaged as being 'trendy'. It became an acquired taste.

If you were referring to my answer. I said right now it can't be called a World Cuisine before it lacks a certain degree of acceptance and presentation to appeal others.

I think it also deals with other factors, especially when Japan became a superpower and her technology and culture was greatly admired by the world that it because "cool" to like the Japanese after World War. Eating raw fish is actually nice and healthy. I love our 'kinilaw' it is similar with the Peruvian ceviche.

[Lili]

Originally Posted by Animo

Again don't limit yourselves to the Tagalog region. To the Bisayans the word bawang does not exist we use ajos. The article was a response from Prof. Zialcita, like it or not he have interacted with the people (Southeast Asians, Latin Americans, Filipinos, and Europeans) and have seen these differences and similarities. Again, read between the lines. He did not say it is not indigenous but the usage of it in the food before by the natives. By the way, why are you guys threaten with the similarities, differences and the truth?
Furthermore, it was the Arab settlers/merchants who had the upperhand of spices before and not Europeans. It was expensive and spices were only used by the European nobilities and the common people used salt.

We are not threatened by it. I am clarifying the import of what is being stated there. Precisely I am reading between the lines, Mr. Zialcita is justifying that that the Philippine cuisine is not considered world cuisine because it is viewed as not authentic and just a derivation from Spanish cuisine and that people are always looking for "Asian-ness". I say, that both the Asian and Spanish influences in our cuisine has made it authentic and all the more worthy of international standards for palatability. The fact that it is not truly original or indigenous has nothing to do with it. It has something to do with lack of presentation and marketing of our cuisine to make it visually and aesthetically appealing (and not just gustatorily delectable.)

[Elsongs]

Look at it this way... Britain and Russia are among the world's most powerful nations. But their cuisines are downright AWFUL!!!
...and even the British and the Russians would agree with that.