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Old June 25th, 2007, 06:49 AM   #1
hkskyline
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Saving Herat's Minarets

FEATURE-Cars, not war, may finally topple Afghan minarets

HERAT, Afghanistan, June 25 (Reuters) - They survived three decades of war but risk being toppled by road traffic -- the last five mediaeval minarets of Herat are being slowly shaken to dust.

The minarets are all that remain of what was once a wonder of art and architecture, a brilliantly decorated complex of Islamic learning and devotion on the Silk Road in western Afghanistan.

Little more than a century ago, more than a dozen of these minarets peered over the ancient city of Herat, part of a madrassa-mosque complex built in the 15th century by the daughter-in-law of the all-conquering mogul emperor Timur.

War and neglect have since toppled most of the camel-coloured mud-brick towers, which were once sheathed in sparkling blue, green, white and black mosaic tiles, reaching heights of more than 100 feet (30 metres) and shining out across the desert.

But after U.S.-led forces evicted the Taliban from national power in 2001, a relative amount of both peace and prosperity has returned to Herat and there are hopes that they can be preserved.

But there is one big problem: traffic.

Trucks and cars rumble along a busy road that runs right through the middle of the group of remaining minarets, shaking the ground and sending tremors through their foundations.

If it is not closed, there are fears that any of the minarets could crumble or fall in the coming years and decades. One of them is already on a dangerous tilt.

"In the past five years, we tried to block the road going close to the minarets. Fortunately, we succeeded and blocked the road -- for a little bit," said Ayamuddin Ajmal, who runs the Culture Ministry's historical monuments office in Herat.

But residents objected and the provincial government, unable or unwilling to invest in a road diversion, backed down, he said.

The road reopened.

"The government has also a commitment regarding preserving the minarets, but still we see that the government has not blocked the road," said Ajmal, who keeps a small office in a niche of another of Herat's treasures, the Friday Mosque.

WORLD HERITAGE

The Afghan government has submitted the old city of Herat, including the minarets, as a candidate for listing as a World Heritage site. This would put Herat in the same class as China's Great Wall, the pyramids of Egypt and the Acropolis of Athens.

In theory, both central and provincial governments support the closure of the road to preserve the minarets, but in reality there is insufficient political will to do so.

The road has not only remained open, it has actually been widened in the past few years, said Brendan Cassar, a culture consultant for UNESCO, the U.N. body that works with national governments to preserve sites of world cultural significance.

"There has to be some kind of will to preserve the heritage, some kind of expression of interest that this is important to Afghanistan's cultural heritage and therefore important to world heritage," Cassar said at UNESCO's tiny office in Kabul.

The old city of Herat is already on the tentative list for inclusion on UNESCO's register of World Heritage sites. Eventual inscription on the register could help ensure more funding to preserve Herat's antiquities and put the city on the tourist map.

But both the Culture Ministry's Ajmal and UNESCO staff in Kabul say local authorities are undermining the old city's character, not only by refusing to close the road through the minarets complex but also by allowing unchecked development.

In Afghan terms, Herat is a boom town, thanks largely to blossoming trade across the nearby border with Iran, less than a two-hour drive away on a sealed highway.

New shimmering buildings of glass and concrete are sprouting up, overlooking the old city and challenging the minarets' command of the skyline for the first time in six centuries.

"Many high buildings have been built in Herat city which is against UNESCO rules," Ajmal said. "The height of the buildings inside (old) Herat should not be more than seven metres."

Across the road from the tilted minaret, there is a modern building going up that is already well over seven metres tall.

The minaret itself is held up by two spans of cable, bracing it against seemingly imminent collapse onto the road. It is only a temporary measure, until the road is closed and the entire site can be secured for preservation and archaeological works.

There is a gaping hole about half way up the tower, exposing the stairwell inside, the legacy of a rocket or artillery attack in the 1980s, when Soviet occupiers were fighting mujahideen.

The Culture Ministry and UNESCO are continuing to work on a submission for World Heritage status, and UNESCO says it is channelling more than $360,000 of Norwegian money into preservation work into the old city this year alone.

But if Afghan authorities at local or national level cannot even close a road, or enforce a building code, UNESCO questions their commitment to protecting their own cultural heritage, despite the economic benefits of creating a tourism drawcard.

"This is a historical site that can contribute to people's livelihoods for decades to come," Cassar said. "It's jobs."
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Old July 1st, 2007, 08:35 AM   #2
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Source : http://www.pbase.com/rlankenau/herat_city&page=all





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Old October 19th, 2007, 07:53 AM   #3
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Ancient heritage of Herat disappearing bit by bit beneath concrete

HERAT, Afghanistan, Oct 19, 2007 (AFP) - In the ancient Afghan city of Herat, the fight is on between restoring historical monuments, palaces and houses or demolishing them to make way for bleak structures of smoked glass and concrete.

The battle in this once-essential stop along the Silk Road seems to be going the way of demolition -- even if much of it is illegal.

Reconstruction needs a lot of time and work, as well as money and craftsmen skilled in ancient techniques necessary for recreating the vision of ancient architectural plans.

Herat is one of the few cities in Central Asia to have kept its medieval structure despite the march of time and the ravages of war.

In the 1980s the city near the Iranian border was home to around 200,000 inhabitants; today about three million people live here and the buildings stretch for miles.

Those who have swapped their traditional mudbrick homes for the new concrete blocks say they left to escape "the absence of comfort: running water, hot water, electricity and sanitation," says Bismillah Fateh from the Agha Khan Trust for Culture.

The trust is working to restore a number of sites and lodgings in the western city which is more than 2,000 years old.

"It is a fight every day," says Daud Sidiq, an architect with the foundation who has restored the Malik Cisterne and Mosque at the foot of the imposing Ikhtyaruddin citadel, the present structure of which was built in the 15th century.

Work is also underway on the palace of Attarbashi, the home of a wealthy physician that was constructed at the turn of the century and which is being restored with the agreement of the owner.

Winter and summer apartments face into a rectangular courtyard. Workers have put a large waterproof plastic sheet into the roof, a contemporary addition to a traditional technique.

Columns of stucco, reinforced with steel and asphalt, are whitewashed with a material made of limestone, ashes and flax, says Sidiq. For added protection from aging, nothing is better than mixing in "egg white, cooking oil and flour," he says.

"We have been working for three months to bring back the old house," says the architect, who is passionate about this undertaking.

Down narrow lanes, the historic homes of Kebabi and Akhawan have been entirely renovated and returned to their owners or their descendants.

To enter through their huge wooden gates, one has to choose between two large knockers -- one for men and one for women: their different tones alert those inside to whether a man or a woman should answer.

In this maze, traditional structures are being given new life.

There is new paving in the old Jewish quarters, deserted in the 1970s. Two synagogues have been reconverted into a mosque and a school; one remains in ruins and another, its inside painted shiny blue, is being repaired.

The hamman, or bath, is again functioning for a male clientele.

"It is not a very expensive programme," says Agha Khan urban planner Anna Soave, and there is support from a number of European nongovernment organisations.

The Commission for the Development of the Old City of Herat was created in 2005 but is handicapped by poor coordination between its members who include government and local groups.

The result: an acceleration of the demolition of the old and construction of illegal villas.

"All the illegal construction must be destroyed," provincial governor Hossein Anwari said.
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