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Photographia Hints, tips and general photographic know-how



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Old December 1st, 2008, 05:10 AM   #21
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Those pictures are orgasmically beautiful!
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Old December 2nd, 2008, 04:43 PM   #22
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I just posted one of my first (proper) night shots in the UPC. Also taken with a D40 (with a 18-200mm lens) and a tripod. Make sure that even with a tripod you either use the self timer or some sort of remote as the vibrations cause when you push the shutter can effect the shot.

I've just ordered me one of these.. http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/...G/70000777g-21
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Old December 2nd, 2008, 04:59 PM   #23
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Also when using a tripod make sure VR (OS) is turned off.
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Old December 2nd, 2008, 05:30 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Medo View Post
Also when using a tripod make sure VR (OS) is turned off.
Por qua?
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Old December 2nd, 2008, 05:55 PM   #25
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Because it has no effect when the camera is stationary, or it might try to compensate for vibrations even though there are no vibrations hence causing vibrations.

I'm not too sure about that second bit, it's pure speculation, but I have heard some people saying VR has the opposite effect when there is no need for it.
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Old December 2nd, 2008, 06:02 PM   #26
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Furry muff. To be fair though, when I took that shot of the laser I was perched on a ledge on top of a 6 storey building and there was a wicked wind blowing which appeared to be shaking the camera even when it was on the tripod..
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Old December 2nd, 2008, 09:14 PM   #27
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Lovely shots Gaz. Like you, I sometimes use a noise reduction filter to soften my night shots. I sometimes use it in portraiture pics as well.
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Old December 2nd, 2008, 09:31 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T0M View Post
Furry muff. To be fair though, when I took that shot of the laser I was perched on a ledge on top of a 6 storey building and there was a wicked wind blowing which appeared to be shaking the camera even when it was on the tripod..
Agree with Medo about knocking off the VR if it's on a tripod. However, I know what it's like on a Liverpool roof If you think the wind is too strong, keep the VR on.

If it's windy and you really do not want any softness by using your VR, the best piece of advice is to keep the legs of your tripod as low as possible to prevent wind shake and use a remote control. No remote control? Set your camera on a timer setting to a couple of seconds. Any camera shake you cause by pressing the button will have gone by then.

Just stuff I've learned by trial and mostly error over a few years
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Old December 3rd, 2008, 12:16 AM   #29
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Cheers Pillar, all good advice. And in the end that's what I had to do (keeping the tripod low and using the self timer) to get the one half decent shot that I managed to shoot before my fingers dropped off from cold. Part of the reason I've ordered the remote control so that I don't have to faff about with self timers (I always manage to get it on 10 seconds by accident as well)..
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Old February 9th, 2009, 01:41 AM   #30
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Finally managed to use the tripod today! Walked around me local area and grabbed this. Just pished I didn't notice the snowflake on the lens before taking the pic - now I've got some hefty glare!
image hosted on flickr


Nikon D70, Sigma 10-20mm, 6 seconds, f 16, ISO 200
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Old May 12th, 2009, 03:31 AM   #31
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Last edited by Rumors; May 14th, 2009 at 01:24 AM.
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Old March 26th, 2010, 03:10 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Medo View Post
Hello Wild@Heart.

Yes you can definitely achieve that kind of an effect with the equipment you got, provided you have a nice tripod as well.

Like El_Greco said you would need to use shutter priority.

Turn the knob thingy at the top of the camera to 'S'
Set the exposure time by turning that wheel until you have what you need.
Make sure your ISO is set to 200. Never use higher ISOs for such shots, it will be far too noisy.
Then click and wait.

Good luck.
Thanks Medo, I would turn my flash off too?
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Old March 26th, 2010, 04:06 AM   #33
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Yes Rumors you don't use flash for long time exposures simply because it's impossible as flashes only 'flash' for a fraction of a second.

Also, you might consider using the 3 second timer to take long night time shots, because that would eliminate any potential camera shake.

Furthermore, you should turn off the VR (vibration reaction) on your lens if your lens has it, because it doesn't work well on tripods.

Good luck.
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Old March 27th, 2010, 06:02 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Medo View Post
Yes Rumors you don't use flash for long time exposures simply because it's impossible as flashes only 'flash' for a fraction of a second.
Though if you have an off-camera flash unit, it can be quite handy for filling in shadows or painting with light during a long exposure...





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Old March 27th, 2010, 06:42 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Medo View Post
Yes Rumors you don't use flash for long time exposures simply because it's impossible as flashes only 'flash' for a fraction of a second.

Also, you might consider using the 3 second timer to take long night time shots, because that would eliminate any potential camera shake.

Furthermore, you should turn off the VR (vibration reaction) on your lens if your lens has it, because it doesn't work well on tripods.

Good luck.
Thanks.
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Old November 14th, 2010, 11:30 AM   #36
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Yeah, wireless flash is also good for this reason

However, there are times when you have to make do and it is helpful to try and get the white balance right. At night with the orange streetlamps I try and lower the temperature to 1800k although the camera will only cope with 2500k.

image hosted on flickr

This was taken whilst out with friends, and the white balance worked out in post processing.

image hosted on flickr

Both are long exposures and within the capability of the camera (under 30s, f8-16). The 'Sweet spot' of my particular 18-70 lens was f/8 but by changing it to f/13 to f/16 it is possible to get the starry effect from lights - When i get it setup properly.

image hosted on flickr

Like here for example. A fine image, considering it was drizzling slightly. That's the fountain in Nuneaton, Warwickshire.

image hosted on flickr

And of course, there are different levels for white balance. Do I get the WB set from the shade, the light or what? I've not gone out taking night photos for a long time now. I shall have to get my act together and try again
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Old November 14th, 2010, 11:44 AM   #37
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Occasionally you can decent photos at night that provide their own lightsource. I was lucky with this one as I caught it on the last day it was setup, having seen the 60m high glow from across the city but constrained by work not to visit it
image hosted on flickr


image hosted on flickr


Then of course you can try for photos longer than the 30s allowed by most cameras. Having a trigger that you can lock down the trigger is good. This was before I had the electronic timer I now have
image hosted on flickr

6mins 26sec, f/4.5, Iso100. Shropshire, facing towards the Midlands. The glow in the top left is the sensor warming up, although it was in the single figures of 'c when I was there!

image hosted on flickr

This was taken in Spain during Summer/Autumn. It was pitch black and I had to use manual focus with care as there was NO light at all up there, or so I thought. It turned out there was enough glow from the large town about 2 kilometers away down the valley to get this. 523 sec (8min 43sec), F/4, 20mm, ISO100. It's only a 5mp DSLR btw.

And finally, as I have been playing with night photography and HDRs I felt it only wise to hang around some bus termini to get these fots

Without then With HDR process
image hosted on flickr

image hosted on flickr


image hosted on flickr

image hosted on flickr


image hosted on flickr

image hosted on flickr


As you can see, the lights do cause odd things to happen and there are not many termini that have white lights. Most are the regular orange ones. But those three sets are spread out over 2 years and I've been mucking around with photography for about 6 years with over 80,000 shots taken on one camera alone.
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Old November 14th, 2010, 11:45 AM   #38
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Occasionally you can decent photos at night that provide their own lightsource. I was lucky with this one as I caught it on the last day it was setup, having seen the 60m high glow from across the city but constrained by work not to visit it
image hosted on flickr


image hosted on flickr


Then of course you can try for photos longer than the 30s allowed by most cameras. Having a trigger that you can lock down the trigger is good. This was before I had the electronic timer I now have
image hosted on flickr

6mins 26sec, f/4.5, Iso100. Shropshire, facing towards the Midlands. The glow in the top left is the sensor warming up, although it was in the single figures of 'c when I was there!

image hosted on flickr

This was taken in Spain during Summer/Autumn. It was pitch black and I had to use manual focus with care as there was NO light at all up there, or so I thought. It turned out there was enough glow from the large town about 2 kilometers away down the valley to get this. 523 sec (8min 43sec), F/4, 20mm, ISO100. It's only a 5mp DSLR btw.

And finally, as I have been playing with night photography and HDRs I felt it only wise to hang around some bus termini to get these fots

Without then With HDR process
image hosted on flickr

image hosted on flickr


image hosted on flickr

image hosted on flickr


image hosted on flickr

image hosted on flickr


As you can see, the lights do cause odd things to happen and there are not many termini that have white lights. Most are the regular orange ones. But those three sets are spread out over 2 years and I've been mucking around with photography for about 6 years with over 80,000 shots taken on one camera alone.
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