Discussion on the "new spirit" of Downtown Beirut (Solidere)

[lebnani]

You are right, each souk is different and unique to its area. But burberry, calvin klein, and an international food court do not count as a souk.

The actual definition of a souk is historically tied to a larger process specific to arab cities, and a souk develops over a long period of time which is why each souk is different because it depends on the environment it develops in. Also when you say souk you are implying a certain type of market where certain products are bought and sold, with certain behavioral codes such as bartering is allowed. Which is unlike the one found in Beirut.

My point is the term souk is farther away from what this is, but a mall is exactly what this is. And then you ask yourself why deliberately choose to call this mall a souk?

Also your definition of a souk can also be applied to a mall, so it is not specific enough.

I think the souks of beirut have now spread to other areas, Mar Elias, along the street leading up to Sassine, Hamra etc.. These are more akin to a souk than what is found in Beirut.

You can argue that with Solidere's current plan we don't need a souk. And I would agree with this. But my point is simply to highlight the manipulation of language used by Solidere to convince you it is maintaining history when if you look at what they have built, it is quite the contrary.

Am I still wrong?

[Ramy H]

hahah no you are right they do manipulate the language... i wasn't saying you were wrong about that. But we ourselves also manipulate the word souk. Half the time people in my family use souk as a substitute for the mall or the grocery store. I always thought that was odd in its own..

I prefer stores in this souk though than what would be considered a traditional souk (ie. like syrias souks). They just have nothing I would buy.. or want to buy really.
Since for me organization is key, I am an impulse buyer so if presentation is working it then its being bought lol

[Beiruti]

I think creating a "modern" souk is a brilliant and original idea. Let's be realistic, the BCD is an upscale shopping desitination and the modern souks fits perfectly. If people want authentic traditional souks, they can visit souks of Byblos, trablos, saida, etc. There was no way to restore the Beirut souks to the way they were, even if they didnt demolish the original structures. It was a battlefield for 15 years (unlike the other continuously inhabited souks). Solidere found a way to create a modern shopping destination that pays tribute to the history of the space thorugh the street names, layout, architchture, while still bringing it into the 21st Century. I dont think that has ever been done before. Any other country would have just turned this space into another ABC-style mall.

[lebnani]

Beiruti, first of all each souk is unique to its city. So if you want to experience an arab souk, each one in each city is different. If you long to experience Byblos's souk you can't travel to saida's to get a similar experience, its different its a very location specific experience.

1) The souks witnessed only one year of fighting at the beginning of the war, and physically survived the war. Also I don't see why Solidere couldn't have encouraged local market regrowth in the area. Maybe not for the same goods if the buyer supplier demand has changed, but my emphasis is on local industry and local retailers.You go to places in Germany and their markets are still intact and rehabilitated after wwII, and are one of the biggest tourist destinations. My friend brings me local made marzipan everytime he goes there for christmas ITS AMAZING.

I am simply asking to allow a space for civil society, ordinary citizens to repurpose the space.

I think we are totally neglecting the elephant in the room. Beirut "souks" is a luxury brand tourist trap. The ABC is high end retail market. As far as I am concerned with the level of income in the average Lebanese home, there is no market for someone who is living in the country.

But it seems you are all concerned with the image of modernity without any concern if there is any true authenticity to it. A Luxury shopping district in a city whose citizens can't afford to step in it does not make for something modern, but renders it as mere spectacle. Which is what is meant when Solidere is refereed to as a Disney land reproduction where they sell you souveniers of your experience.

In fact Solidere has done what any and every theme park has done.

They have created an area with a theme to be experienced. This are has an idealized Lebanese theme, tailored and branded by Solidere, where the target client is the foreigner. Where they are supposed to be surrounded by seemingly Lebanese brands (like the high end grand cafe) but also with recognizable and comforting international brands like starbucks, costa cafe. Hagen daz, whose employees can't afford to shop in the area they work in. The only thing missing is people Hired to walk the streets pretending to be lebanese, like some sort of disney character. But this can be substituted by the men wearing traditional ottoman garb as they serve you your 20 dollar argileh.

The Beirut souks is their new souvenir shop. The foreigners come, look at the facade of Beirut's downtown and believe they are experiencing an authentic experience. And at night everyone empties out of the area, the locals leave for their homes, guaranteed that none live close to downtown.The streets are then patrolled by security guards.

Have you ever tried to walk or have a conversation in downtown after they are closed? Did you know they tell you that downtown is now closed and you have to leave the area?

I don't think this is a city center, but more of a theme park. You live in America Beiruti, I live in Toronto. We both know what real, modern, city centers are. Lets not lie to ourselves and compare this one to them.

[LeB.Fr]

Turkey and Tunisia developed mass tourism. Lebanon choose luxury tourism. The goal today is to attract rich people from all over the world who spend money without asking, and in to attract these people, you need a certain infrastructure: 5 stars hotels, marinas, yachts, luxury restaurants, clubs, shopping areas. So Solidere's target isn't the average Lebanese or European, but the rich Khalijis, and rich people in general. No wonder I often see reportage of Downtown, with latest opening such as Dior and Louis Vuitton on Luxe TV.

I'm not saying this is legitimate, but it's a choice that was made. So don't be surprised if everything in the City center is overpriced and too expensive for you, you're (or us) just not their target.

[lebnani]

yes you are exactly right, and I am no surprised that this has happened, I am more surprised that we have let it happen with complete consent. we have a right to question whether we want this or not, a right that we are not exercising. And unfortunately as this forum exemplifies it, most people would rather walk in a theme park in which they can't actually participate in, than have a real city center.

[þopsï]

+1

[aezzeddi]

Originally Posted by lebnani

yes you are exactly right, and I am no surprised that this has happened, I am more surprised that we have let it happen with complete consent. we have a right to question whether we want this or not, a right that we are not exercising. And unfortunately as this forum exemplifies it, most people would rather walk in a theme park in which they can't actually participate in, than have a real city center.

To be honest i always had mixed feelings about DT. On the one hand I can't deny the reconstruction of the area has been a major boost to Lebanon's toursim potential, but still I do believe that any gov would've eventually rebuilt it, and maybe without increasing our debt to sick levels. I also feel sorry for all shopowners who were forced to give up their properties and i feel disgust at Solidere's lack of sensitivity and respect towards the lebanese voices who want to take part in the process of rebuilding Beirut. I do think it's a mafia, but it's owned by politicians and we support them, blindly, so that's what we deserve. Still, some complain that DT is not for the Lebanese...well I disagree. You can actually go to DT at night, have dinner in a resto for an average price, smoke arguileh or have an icecream, walk around to see and be seen, and then move to one of DTs nightclubs, again for a reasonable price. We lebanese love to spend and if you compare what you'd spend a night out at Gemmayze or Jounieh or any other party area, I doubt it the difference would be too obvious. The problem here is that we hate to see khalijis invading our streets, and maybe even european tourists too. When tourists invade a certain area, it is only natural that locals feel displaced. This happens everywhere in the world. Personally I can't understand it. Lebanse should flock to DT and enjoy it. Cause either ways we paid for it and it seems we'll be paying for the next 100 years or more. So it's either we burn Solidere's HQ and take control of the area or we just take advantage. The place is beautiful. Regardless of social-economic-urban issues, the place is amazing and if the jaw is not lebanese, well we are in part to blame for that.

I do think that Solidere's planning is wrong in many senses. The Souks for example seem empty, and will probably stay empty most of the year. They are focusing on the wealthy arabs, but I doubt it that a bunch of arabs can make lebanon's tourism sector strong enough in the long term. Lebanon is a 4 million strong country, with areas outside Beirut which need investment desperatly. Arabs are not interested in visiting Saida, Sour, Tripoli, Baalbak or Zahle and investing there. Lebanon needs to cater for middle segment tourists too, maybe leaving exclusive areas for the use of the wealthy classes. Also, if you decide to focus on high end tourism, the least you can do is offer 5* services since the minute the rich tourist enters lebanon to the secoind he leaves. Unfortunatly Lebanon is far from being able to meet these people's standards. We do have a few nice hotels, some exclusive restos and rolex shops...but still, infrastructure is falling apart and poverty and dirt is obvious to all. I mean, the guys want to promote Lebanon as the Switzerland of the ME, but please, have any of you visited Switzerland lately? I hate to compare...

Last summer one of my friends visited Beirut and told me..."It's obvious the place has a chic past" meaning that the guy saw traces of that elegance everywhere...but he couldn't tell wether the place was going through a rebirth or if it was simply living on a glorious past which was far from being regained...

[LeB.Fr]

Ok, in the past few days, I COMPLETELY changed my vision about Beirut and Solidere, and to be honest, if they could turn whole Beirut like solidere (well not ALL beirut :P) I wouldn't say no.

The difference between districts is flagrant. There are places in Beirut in which you can't walk. Streets are narrow, buildings UGLY, and they keep building ugly residential everywhere, cars are parked in the middle of the roads, there are electricity cables everywhere, even the people walking in those streets look weird.

Walking in Solidere is good for the eye, and the ears lol
Walking in the majority of Beirut gives me a headache, and I today I prefer all the luxury and artifices of Solidere over other places in Beirut.

And I'm loving the souks (whatever happened to me, I swear I happened been brainwashed haha)

[lebnani]

eh 7abbibi if your dream also comes with some miracle economic plan ahla w sahla. But it seems you are getting too used to saudi life :P

I say it before as I have always said it. This is Beirut, the good, the bad you either love all of it, or you dont love it. I can't wait to go back to leb just to walk those small streets again. Don't make Beirut something its not.

[Ramy H]

Take pics of the souks! If possible, places in the Souks that we have not seen (as we seem to have the same angle of pics being posted)

[Beiruti]

I think as the BCD gets more built up and more people visit and work there it will start to feel more authentic. We should be proud of this space since its one of the very few, if not only, truly diverse neighborhood (it cant be associated with any one religious or ethnic group).

[lebnani]

while I do agree that in time this space might be better integrated. I would point out what one thing. The BCD is about the emphasis of religion into the nation, and it is not about the defusion of religious tension.

One example:
Before the war, Martyr's square was a symbol of Lebanese business and entertainment, however it was secular, and in fact it was the one consistent post card image emblematic of Lebanon. The construction of a grand mosque on its main entrance is significant to what Solidere or the nation envisions to be significant in its public space and what it sees should be included in its new postcard image.

Unfortunatly solidere is yet again a step back from secularism and the true inclusion of people not as Christian or Muslim, but as citizens of a state. Its sad to see that we are still trying to understand national citizenship, when other nations are already talking about being global citizens.

And I would also like to say, that the neighborhoods of Mar elias and Hamra are truly diverse neighbourhoods including all religions and all classes, and is not exclusionary or manufactured by a company.

[MARTYR]

Public performance banned in Downtown Beirut
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 12, 2011



I've experienced many disturbing episodes in the corporate-owned and operated space known as Beirut Central District (BCD) or "Downtown."

I've been banned from taking pictures of historic buildings under demolition; I have been detained by police for documenting one of the BCD's oldest neighborhoods as it was being razed; I've even been censored by those protesting the space, namely Hezbollah, whose members forcibly erased my footage of the tents they used to occupy BCD in 2007.

However last night's incident tops the list petty policing in the luxury shopping district imaginatively branded Beirut's "City Center" by its billion-dollar developer, Solidere.

Last night, nothing happened to me, but rather I witnessed the humiliation and harassment of another--a defenseless middle-aged gentleman in a shameful incident that spoke volumes about the sincerity of the firm's newest corporate slogan "Solidere: Places for Life," as heard endlessly in a spot on CNN International.

It all began around 11PM last night when I approached the clock tower at Place d'Etoile, a vestige of the French colonial city modeled on its Parisian counterpart, now refurbished into a pedestrian high street.

I was pleasantly surprised to see a crowd of dozens of people clapping and congregating in the open space--Downtown's largest--to the sound of a man singing soulful Arabic songs. Perhaps I had misjudged Solidere for having orchestrated a largely elite neighborhood, free from the nuisance of the poor and underprivileged and all things serendipitous or cosmopolitan that bring actual "city centers" to life.

But moments later, reality came crashing in when a police officer abruptly pulled the man aside in a threatening fashion to the surprise of the onlookers, who hurriedly dispersed. Clearly this bit of unregulated entertainment was unwanted and needed to be silenced.

As he stood quietly amid the stream of passersby, I walked up and asked the man, who seemed less than five feet tall, where he was from. He announced excitedly that he was Jordanian and represented Rotana, one of the Middle East's largest music labels. Whether the speech was a stage act or bout of lunacy, this short, enthusiastic entertainer could be considered anything but a threat to the public.

"They said I am bothering them," he pleaded to me in reference to the security officers, a usual mix of army troops and policemen, standing watch from the curbside. He propped up his chest and saluted as one walked past.

Hearing his story, I lamented the lack of free expression and asked him (perhaps irresponsibly) to sing some more.

He gathered his breath and suddenly bolted out a swinging Arabic note with impressive timbre "Give us Hurriye (freedom)," he sang, "give us freedom," he repeated, delivering the line directly to troops facing him across the street.

Some of the soldiers cracked smiles and a small crowd regathered, clapping enthusiastically at the lyrics. But the fleeting moment of ease was disrupted again when a stern-faced army solider, clearly annoyed, made his way toward the singer from behind. He gripped the man's arm, yanked him backward and this time marched him out of the square entirely, adding a few expletives for effect.

"Why did you take him away," I asked the burly soldier, having followed him to the opposite end of the square.

"That man is crazy," he said loudly, gesturing a finger toward his head.

"Is it illegal to sing here?" I asked.

"It is illegal to gather publicly," the solider said. "Public gathering is forbidden in the square."

"What is the square, if not a place for public gathering," I countered.

"Thats not your business," he quipped, sensing my incredulous look. "This is a security issue. Our responsibility is security. Now move along," he added firmly, before turning away and quickly walking off.

Other officers also left but a few remained near the clock tower, keeping watch over the crowd, as seen to the right of the photo below:



So what was this feared security threat, I wondered.

Were the Mandarins of the Lebanese government finally realizing that the time had come for them to worry about joining the fate of their regional dictatorial counterparts, beset with demonstrations in public squares?

Or were both the army and police under orders to ensure that those who profit from Downtown's faux public space be limited to the millionaires who can afford to rent its exorbitantly priced retail spaces?

Indeed "Downtown" was ranked the most expensive neighborhood in the Middle East last year, seemingly in line with Solidere's mission of creating the region's "finest city center" according to its chairman's message.

Rather than attracting Beirut residents-- the vast majority of which cannot afford its shops--the BCD has evolved into a destination for affluent visitors and high wealth foreign nationals. In fact, last night the streets surrounding the clock tower were dominated by oil-rich Saudi Arabian and Arab Gulf tourists:





A boon to the economy no doubt, but one that largely feeds elite establishments, rather than the majority of businesses. Perhaps those international investors watching Solidere's adverts on CNN will need to place a sizable Asterix denoting the growing list of exceptions to its slogan, which now adorns many city streets:





Places for Life*

*Does not apply to most Beirut residents, journalists, photographers, and now, street performers.


SOURCE: The Beirut Report

[Aladdin1990]

Hey guys,

I don't know whether this is the right place but I have a question about Solidere. Many people seem to despise it, yet isn't it a good company in a sense that it is rebuilding the CBD of Beirut while rebuilding and/or renovating many of Beirut's old buildings thus taking care of Beirut's heritage. I mean architecture wise the CBD is the nicest place in Beirut (which in other places is a little eye sore). Do people despise Solidere because Hariri is buying the land for himself? Is Solidere also active in other cities across Lebanon or only Beirut?

Thank you!

[GAJ1992]

I have to disagree a little with this whole bcd thing.. i love my bcd the way it is.. and many central districts in generally big cities are more expensive than anywhere else in the city.. its normal.. we have 5 stars hotels but we also have other hotels in beirut.. obviously if you want to live in a hotel in the middle of the city don't expect it to be cheap.. and yes the stores are expensive.. but there is also dunkin (avg priced).. and many stores in the souks are VERY affordable.. but it of course has the luxury..

I disagree with this whole discussion of solidere owning the land.. if you're going to go into a big restaurant in the middle of the city expect it to price like a big restaurant in the middle of the city..

[kinane]

another club that most lebanese have no access to, wow

[Rabih]

what's your point?
Do you want every single Lebanese to be able to stay at 5 star hotels?

[kinane]

if you cant get my point, well its a shame.
once a wise man said:
during the lebanese civil war beiruties burned down beirut with no remorse because they couldnt affored any of the delights it represents.

[Rabih]

I'm just sick of all these big hippy sentimental statements that everyone throws around.. We can't afford downtown, another club Lebanese have no access to, .. Not everyone is supposed to afford everything, because not everyone is educated, driven and therefore successful..

Yes some are born under privileged than others, but that doesn't mean they do not have the opportunity to better their future. Especially in Lebanon!

If you can't understand that, then that's the shame