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ELAFONISSOS - DREAM BEACHES
ELAFONISSOS
Dream beaches
A campers’ secret was let out of the bag about three years ago: two of the most beautiful beaches in Greece are on tiny Elafonissos, just off the southern Peloponnese. Linked to the island’s only village, Chora, by a 5km dirt track or by small boats, they have voluptuous sand dunes sprinkled with sea shells and slope down gently into a transparent sea. The smaller, Mikro Simos, is popular with families and day-trippers; the larger one, Megalo Simos, with free campers and nudists. Both have laid-back beach bars with music at night.
Although Elafonissos is now too crowded for its own good in peak season (mid-July to mid-August), at other times it’s a delight — as cool, relaxed and stress-free as ever. There’s little to do besides play in the turquoise water and dine on fresh fish. Hire a motorbike or car before you arrive, and make sure the tank is full (there are no petrol stations on Elafonissos). Also, bring cash — there are no banks and most places won’t take plastic.
Getting there: it ain’t easy. The nearest airport is on the island of Kithira, but you’ll have to take a two-hour ferry to Neapolis on the mainland, then another ferry to get to Elafonissos. Ferries make the 10-minute crossing all day long from 8am to 5.30pm. If you’re starting from Athens, there are at least two KTEL Laconia coaches daily to Neapolis from the Kifissou Street terminal (21051 24910, £15).
Where to stay: accommodation here consists of small rooms and studio places in Chora: one of the best is Lafotel (27340 61138, £26), close to the sea. Or pitch your tent at the new, eco-friendly Simos Paradise Camping, just 20 metres from the beach (27340 22672).
Where to eat: you can stay put on the beaches of Simos, thanks to its taverna; all the other eateries are in Chora. Many serve the local specialities: fresh barbecued octopus and stuffed squid.
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ELAFONISSOS
Dream beaches
A campers’ secret was let out of the bag about three years ago: two of the most beautiful beaches in Greece are on tiny Elafonissos, just off the southern Peloponnese. Linked to the island’s only village, Chora, by a 5km dirt track or by small boats, they have voluptuous sand dunes sprinkled with sea shells and slope down gently into a transparent sea. The smaller, Mikro Simos, is popular with families and day-trippers; the larger one, Megalo Simos, with free campers and nudists. Both have laid-back beach bars with music at night.
Although Elafonissos is now too crowded for its own good in peak season (mid-July to mid-August), at other times it’s a delight — as cool, relaxed and stress-free as ever. There’s little to do besides play in the turquoise water and dine on fresh fish. Hire a motorbike or car before you arrive, and make sure the tank is full (there are no petrol stations on Elafonissos). Also, bring cash — there are no banks and most places won’t take plastic.
Getting there: it ain’t easy. The nearest airport is on the island of Kithira, but you’ll have to take a two-hour ferry to Neapolis on the mainland, then another ferry to get to Elafonissos. Ferries make the 10-minute crossing all day long from 8am to 5.30pm. If you’re starting from Athens, there are at least two KTEL Laconia coaches daily to Neapolis from the Kifissou Street terminal (21051 24910, £15).
Where to stay: accommodation here consists of small rooms and studio places in Chora: one of the best is Lafotel (27340 61138, £26), close to the sea. Or pitch your tent at the new, eco-friendly Simos Paradise Camping, just 20 metres from the beach (27340 22672).
Where to eat: you can stay put on the beaches of Simos, thanks to its taverna; all the other eateries are in Chora. Many serve the local specialities: fresh barbecued octopus and stuffed squid.
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